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Scanner link Failure engine cranks but does not start

This is a discussion on Scanner link Failure engine cranks but does not start within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; The car is a 1998 Camaro that originally had a 3.8 with a 5 speed manual but has been converted ...

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    Scanner link Failure engine cranks but does not start

    The car is a 1998 Camaro that originally had a 3.8 with a 5 speed manual but has been converted to a 98 LS1 with a 6 Speed manual. For what this cost to do we could have leased a 5th generation for 3 years. Sunday the car ran fine Monday it would turn over but not start. Bought a new Actron CP9575 Scanner. When we attached it we get a link error. Apparently the computer PCM is not functioning hence the car does not start. Tried to reset the computer by disconnecting both batter terminals and touching them together. Still no link no computer. Checked every fuse, and replaced the relay. Any ideas (other than leasing the 5th.)

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Are you using the V6 pcm?

    Did you get a LS1 tune flashed to the PCM?

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    Being a swap, the only way to tell if the data link is properly connected to the PCM is to continuity test the port against the PCM connector. I wouldn't start throwing parts at it, or make any assumptions, unless you first verify connectivity.

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    Using the LS1 V-8 pcm that was included with the engine. The gauges work and the security light lights up for a few seconds when you turn the car on. The PCM was supposed to have been performance flashed and the engine was running well prior to this.

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    Start checking the grounds and wire harness.

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    Just for giggles, plug the scanner into another vehicle to ensure that it is working properly.

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    No scan link, no spark eithe.

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Start checking the grounds and wire harness.
    Checked the number two plug with a spark plug tester. As far as I can see there is no spark. Since I do not have a helper I have to stand on the clutch with one foot while looking over the firewall where I have the tester attached to the number 2 plug wire. Since the wire is so short it is not easy to see at a vantage point of 3 feet. It is raining off and on so it is overcast making it easier to see a spark if there was one. I first tried the ground used by the engine then a bare metal tube on the fender neither got a spark. Since the starter turns over at least that has a ground.
    Last edited by USengines; 05-01-2013 at 11:47 AM.

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    Have you gone through all the fuses?

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    Fuses

    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Have you gone through all the fuses?
    The PCM fuse on the 98 fuse box is empty only one socket. PCM bat fuse is good as is the INJ2. The 10 amp abs ignition fuse next to it I replaced though it did not look burned. None of the other fuses look bad. Is there any particular ones I should check again?
    Last edited by USengines; 05-01-2013 at 09:45 PM. Reason: typo

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    Anything to do with the PCM, ignition and engine electronics.

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    Will try it on my son's ford escape in the morning.

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    The ground is good if the that consists of the two bolts that hold it down?

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    Being a swap, I am uncertain what "two bolts" you are referring to. LS engines have a couple of grounds and the one that usually causes issues is located on the back of the driver's side head. I believe there are two wires secured to the head by a bolt.

    Easy check is to again perform a continuity test -- set your meter for ohms and touch the two leads together. If it is like mine, you'll see around 0.6 ohms of resistance. Then, with the battery hooked up, touch one lead to the negative post and the other to whatever area you are testing for ground. The reading should match your baseline. What this will not tell you is how good the ground is with respect to heavy current flow. A single strand of wire can provide a ground, but it will not hold up to the draw created by engaging the starter. Still, it is a simple test to check for ground and can be used on relays and other components.

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    The two bolts I an referring to hold the PCM down. The only ground wire I can find is over on the drivers side on the front going on the first coil to the shock tower where it is under the nut. I don't see any other grounds.

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    There are 3 ground wires located on the drivers side rear of the cylinder with 2 bolts.

    There is a pic on the thread attached post 5.

    ls1 grounding locations



    You also have a ground just above the battery on the finder. This one sometimes gets corroded and effects the whole system.

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    Grounds

    Thanks found the one at the front, very large braided wire. Do not feel the one that is supposed to be at the back of the drivers side head.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks found the one at the front, very large braided wire. Do not feel the one that is supposed to be at the back of the drivers side head.

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    [Problem solved] Fuse covers swapped 2 ignition fuses blown

    The reason there was no PCM ING fuse is the mechanic who swapped the engine also swapped the fuse covers. After changing the covers back there indeed was a PCM ING fuse Besides the PCM ING fuse being blown the 40 AMP ING fuse was no good though it did not appear to be blown it was.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    so you're back up and running, correct?

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    After fixing the fixing the fuses the scanner worked fine as does the car, though I am not sure what caused the PCM ING fuse to blow in the first place? The 40amp fuse probably blew when the battery charger clamp inadvertently hit the air conditioner dryer?
    Last edited by USengines; 05-03-2013 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Added info

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    that will do it. Glad to see you're up again..

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