Same Power Steering Leak

[Naaman]

So... when I was under the car putting my jack stands in place, I noticed that my power steering leak is back...

I originally swapped out the whole pump to include two O-rings (the pressure side and the reservoir-to-pump connection).

I'm thinking that my leak may be due to old hoses at this point...? The car is 20 years old now, and I do not know whether the hoses/fittings are original. But I'm guessing that they are. If I am right, does it make sense that they have been through so many heat cycles that they just aren't holding up anymore?

If so, how many hoses/O-rings am I looking at needing to change and how involved is the job?

I honestly felt that the power steering swap was easy, so I'm not worried about pulling the pump again, other than the time it takes, and have to do "re-work." But, it's nice to get the job done right and have only myself to blame if it's not (no worrying about holding some shady shop accountable, etc, etc).

[pajeff02]

The hoses do go bad over time and will weep at the connections. Not sure about our cars (as I have not paid much attention to the P/S system) but they usually require a made up hose for the pressure side and just a piece of hose off a roll for the return side.

[Whamhammer]

The hoses do go bad over time and will weep at the connections. Not sure about our cars (as I have not paid much attention to the P/S system) but they usually require a made up hose for the pressure side and just a piece of hose off a roll for the return side.

Jeff,

You are correct, the pressure hose has fittings, and the return is bulk (oil resistant) hose.

[Naaman]

This may be a coincidence, but... my car seems to have a low battery after a few days of sitting. I have been suspecting that the alternator is ruined on account of the power steering leak, but, I can jump start the car and it will run indefinitely. It has started in the morning after being parked for 12+ hours (same in the afternoon/evening). However, one morning, I drove 4 miles to the gas station and the car would not start after filling up. Got it jumped and it got me the remaining 50 miles home. Next day, started fine. But after sitting for several days, it has failed to start (on two separate occasions).

After thinking about it, it seems that the battery may be the issue, not the alternator: the car will run even after the jumper cables are removed, but trying to start it twice in a few minutes, or letting it sit for a few days prevents the battery from starting the car.

Is there any chance that the alternator is a contributor to this? I was planning to replace due to the power steering problems in proximity to this problem, but I don't want to spend the money or deal with the headache of trying to solve this problem myself for the first time. Gonna go get the battery tested for now and will report back.

[Whamhammer]

This may be a coincidence, but... my car seems to have a low battery after a few days of sitting. I have been suspecting that the alternator is ruined on account of the power steering leak, but, I can jump start the car and it will run indefinitely. It has started in the morning after being parked for 12+ hours (same in the afternoon/evening). However, one morning, I drove 4 miles to the gas station and the car would not start after filling up. Got it jumped and it got me the remaining 50 miles home. Next day, started fine. But after sitting for several days, it has failed to start (on two separate occasions).

After thinking about it, it seems that the battery may be the issue, not the alternator: the car will run even after the jumper cables are removed, but trying to start it twice in a few minutes, or letting it sit for a few days prevents the battery from starting the car.

Is there any chance that the alternator is a contributor to this? I was planning to replace due to the power steering problems in proximity to this problem, but I don't want to spend the money or deal with the headache of trying to solve this problem myself for the first time. Gonna go get the battery tested for now and will report back.

The alternator could be putting out enough power to run the systems in the car just fine, just not enough to get a good charge on the battery.

You could try running the car, at idle, with all of the accessories on. and see if it starts to give up, that would be a dead giveaway but the best option is to have someone do a charging system test, to see if the alternator is charging enough.

[Naaman]

Okay. I hate leaving my car with the dealer, and I don't really trust it to many local shops (my preferred shop is way across town, like, a 40-minute drive, and his availability is scarce anymore: the hot rod shop is now his "spare time" job).

There is a AAA shop near my house that did a good job with my wife's car, though, so I might take it there to have it checked out.

[pajeff02]

Most shops and chain parts stores can load test your battery. How old is it?

[Naaman]

I don't know. I brain farted and took my wife's car to the shop to buy a battery without bringing the old one. I just said, "eff it" and bought it anyway; put it in and the car fired right up. Starts up every time now.

Still considering an alternator swap. I hear that the 145 amp is the way to go over the stock 102.

[SMWS6TA]

It is. Kinda need it if you have amps and high end radio system.

[cammed goat]

I plan to clean my alternator with Lectra Motive spray as my car is leaking power steering fluid as well. Found the hard line was loose where it threads into the pump, so now my alternator is dark grey/black in color and I so smell the burning fluid from time to time and I want to see if once I clean the alt, if I will gain any voltage, if any has been lost as last year, after three years, I tested my Optima and the tester read "charge and retest".

[SMWS6TA]

Rich better check that o ring. I'm telling you it's most likely shot and if you try to just tighten it, it will finish it and or leak more.

[pajeff02]

Turkey baster works great for sucking the fluid out of the reservoir anytime you need to work on the P/S system.

[Naaman]

Turkey baster works great for sucking the fluid out of the reservoir anytime you need to work on the P/S system.

+1 on that. Just beware that there is way more fluid than you can actually get at with the baster. After I got everything I could reach with the baster, I took the pump off and it never stopped dripping fluid: every time I changed the angle I was holding it at, more fluid leaked out. Make sure you work over a bucket even after you remove the pump, if you're going to take it off.

[Naaman]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!

So, the leak was not the pump, but the hose. After a long time trying to track down the return hose in the after market, and even at the AAA repair shop, it turns out that GM has discontinued that particular hose. Took it to my hot rod shop, and they took the hose off, went to Hose Power, and they fabbed up a solution, which is now "on file" for future F-Bodies that develop this problem.

BUT... the plot thickens. I was under the car last week for an oil change and noticed that the tie rod boots were wet on the bottom. I took the car to the hot rod shop for a new trans install, and asked them to look at the boots. I thought it might be some of the PS fluid that had leaked out left over, but it turns out my steering rack is leaking. Ordered a rebuilt one from Turn One at a cost I was not prepared to pay... but such is car ownership, right?

It also turns out I need new valve springs (due to mileage), but that's another topic...

[pajeff02]

With the age of our cars, factory seals are getting dried out and will leak. Just part of the typical routine with a 20 year old car.

[Naaman]

I consider it the "advantage" of having an old car: The $300-$500 that I would be spending each month on a new car payment gets redirected to upkeep (read: upgrades).

[Whamhammer]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!

So, the leak was not the pump, but the hose. After a long time trying to track down the return hose in the after market, and even at the AAA repair shop, it turns out that GM has discontinued that particular hose. Took it to my hot rod shop, and they took the hose off, went to Hose Power, and they fabbed up a solution, which is now "on file" for future F-Bodies that develop this problem.

BUT... the plot thickens. I was under the car last week for an oil change and noticed that the tie rod boots were wet on the bottom. I took the car to the hot rod shop for a new trans install, and asked them to look at the boots. I thought it might be some of the PS fluid that had leaked out left over, but it turns out my steering rack is leaking. Ordered a rebuilt one from Turn One at a cost I was not prepared to pay... but such is car ownership, right?

It also turns out I need new valve springs (due to mileage), but that's another topic...

If I remember correctly, the return should just be bulk hose, the pressure line is the one with special fittings, and such, and the pressure hose is a fraction of the cost that it is for what Toyota charges for its cars (well past $200.00).

[Whamhammer]

With the age of our cars, factory seals are getting dried out and will leak. Just part of the typical routine with a 20 year old car.

If you think of it, leaky seals (some of them at least) were a feature on this car, such as the self draining differential (pinion seal).

I only worry when I don’t see fluid coming out of some spots because that means the stuff inside is empty.

But I guess that’s my perspective of owning a 180k mile F body.

[SMWS6TA]

If I remember correctly, the return should just be bulk hose, the pressure line is the one with special fittings, and such, and the pressure hose is a fraction of the cost that it is for what Toyota charges for its cars (well past $200.00).

That is how my 98 is setup.