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Rust in my coolant...

This is a discussion on Rust in my coolant... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I'm going to flush it out, but what things should I look for after it's done? As of now, the ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Rust in my coolant...

    I'm going to flush it out, but what things should I look for after it's done?

    As of now, the engine runs fine. If I flush it all out, it should clear out the entire system of rust, right?

    Is it likely that the rubber will need replacing?

    I would like to do this one myself, but I don't have all the necessary tools right now (and it would be a learn-as-I-go experience, so it would take forever).

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    The coolant should be flushed every 3 to 5 years. There's a kit that prestone sells - it was a TSB several years ago. Flush it, run clean water through it a couple of times, then refill with antifreeze mixture and you'll be good to go. If the hoses are original replace them too.

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    Is it recommended to pour water on radiator? I think it is the reason why there are rust when emptying the tank.

  4. #4
    I wouldnt assume its rust. Your dexcool is probably gone bad. You need to flush it out good man. That stuff can make a mess and once it gets goopy I think its imposible to get it out.
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  5. #5
    I would also check to see if your stock trans cooler is leaking. You could have trans fluid mixing with coolant.

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    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by senicalj4579 View Post
    I wouldnt assume its rust. Your dexcool is probably gone bad. You need to flush it out good man. That stuff can make a mess and once it gets goopy I think its imposible to get it out.
    I totally agree, the LS1 radiator is aluminum, which does not rust, however it does corrode (Internal Granular Corrosion).

    SteveC

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post
    I totally agree, the LS1 radiator is aluminum, which does not rust, however it does corrode (Internal Granular Corrosion).

    SteveC
    Yep and the proper way to flush is take the block plugs out as well. Iv never took the plugs out but seriously thinking about if I can get to them. Im due to due mine next summer.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Hm.... how many hours are we talking about (by the book)? I'm probably going to have to take it to the shop to have it done. Any way I can check the tech's work to make sure he did it thoroughly?

    Looking at the DIY thread here on the Forums, access to the parts that need removal seems pretty straight forward. However, I don't have the resources to tackle this one by myself.
    Last edited by Naaman; 10-29-2011 at 07:56 AM.

  9. #9
    What I did last time for a flush is drain the coolant and stick garden hose in my radiator. I run the car with the hose on and no t stat installed. Do all this with the petcock open so the water drains as the car is running and new water keeps filling the radiator. Theres a few ways you can do it.
    You might have issues now with your heater core anyway now that your coolant is showing bad signs. Who knows.
    If you dont know what your doing and it looks that bad you should take it somewhere.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Just got back from the dealer. After it was serviced, I took off the radiator cap and that brown/orange gunk is still on the cap. Looks like it might be on the rim of the neck, too. Yesterday in class, I checked the coolant. It was a bright orange color (which I guess is normal for dexcool?) but I was concerned about the gunk on the radiator cap. I figure it's in the whole system, so I had it flushed. I'm going to take the cap off and clean it once it cools down. After a few drives, I'll check it to see if any more build up occurs.
    Last edited by Naaman; 10-29-2011 at 12:46 PM.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by senicalj4579 View Post
    What I did last time for a flush is drain the coolant and stick garden hose in my radiator. I run the car with the hose on and no t stat installed. Do all this with the petcock open so the water drains as the car is running and new water keeps filling the radiator. Theres a few ways you can do it.
    You might have issues now with your heater core anyway now that your coolant is showing bad signs. Who knows.
    If you dont know what your doing and it looks that bad you should take it somewhere.
    This is how I was imagining it would be done, but the write up on the sticky involves removing core plugs and stuff, and I don't have the tools for that, so I figured I would get it done "right." Apparently, the dealer uses a "flush kit" to do the job. Not sure what that means, but it sounds like it could be something like what you're describing.

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    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barba View Post
    Is it recommended to pour water on radiator? I think it is the reason why there are rust when emptying the tank.
    You drain it, refill it with clean water, bring it up to oprating temperature, let it cool, drain it again and continue that process until it drains clear. Alternatively, remove the thermostat, get the flush kit from prestone, and flush it until it runs clear. Then refill it with antifreeze and clean filtered water. The flush process will not cause corrosion.

  13. #13
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    On the final fill use "distilled" water with the antifreeze.

    SteveC

  14. #14
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    After having the system flushed, I cleaned off the radiator cap. So, after driving around a few trips here and there, I checked the radiator cap to see if anymore of that chunky dexcool was still circulating in my system. It seems to be completely flushed out. No more gunk has accumulated on the cap since I cleaned it off. This makes me happy. I can't wait to get into some under-car labs, so I can check out all the stuff that shops don't want to bother with...

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