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Running too lean

This is a discussion on Running too lean within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I got a major problem maybe someone has an answer. I keep throwin SES light for running too lean on ...

  1. #1
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    Running too lean

    I got a major problem maybe someone has an answer. I keep throwin SES light for running too lean on both banks. I thought it was the superchips tuner but it did it after i put it back to stock. I have slp headers, highflow cats, loudmouth II catback, slp lid, cold air induction kit, mass air sensor, and bbk tb and intake manifold. just put the manifold and throttle body on and thats when it started gettin worse. any suggestions would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    MAF.

    Can you put the stocker back on?

  3. #3
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    yeah i still got the stock one. i asked someone about they said it wouldn't help so i didnt put it back on but i wasnt sure

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Those aftermarket MAF's make power by leaning you out a little bit.

    Lean = power.
    But lean is dangerous as well.

  5. #5
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Those aftermarket MAF's make power by leaning you out a little bit.

    Lean = power.
    But lean is dangerous as well.
    to lean=boom
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  6. #6
    Slower Than a 3rd Gen juiced99ws6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Those aftermarket MAF's make power by leaning you out a little bit.

    Lean = power.
    But lean is dangerous as well.
    damn you slowass... i was all over that one til i scrolled down and saw that you already threw down!

  7. #7
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    How lean is too lean? I know, it's obviously too lean when you blow it up. But how lean can you go in an LS1/6/2/7 before that point? And I'm talking about in practice, not in theory.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Depends on application.

    You don't want knock retard. Most of the time lean will cause knock. Then the computer will pull timing to reduce the knock.
    I run 13:1 air/fuel N/A.

    Much more than that would be too lean in my opinion.

  9. #9
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply. Is that 13:1 you run for daily driving, racing, or highway cruising?

  10. #10
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    WOT.

    Should be that anytime the throttle goes to 100% and the RPM's are over 3500 or so. I think..I would have to check my tune and A/F chart.
    Same tune for all driving.

  11. #11
    Member Hot Rod SS's Avatar
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    What are some of the signs of being too lean? Mine knocks pretty bad when it's cold and it's first started up. I use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 5W-30 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I mean it knocks bad enough to irritate me. But after it warms up it seems fine, only the notorious LS1 knock. The voltmeter gauge also reads very close to 14 when it's started up and lasts for about 10-15 minutes before it drops down to the normal range. Is this normal or what? It's got almost 70,000 miles, new battery and the alternator reads good. I know that has nothing to do with being lean or rich, but it's just something else I'm trying to figure out. Thanks.

  12. #12
    Member Hot Rod SS's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, I almost forgot........I always run 93 octane in it also.

  13. #13
    BOSSONNOS
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    I've found that in hot climates Mobil 1 is too thin, we use Castrol Edge 25w50 on most of our engines and that eliminates any knock/rattles on start up and increase the oil pressure by 10 psi over normal engine oils.

    Lean afr's, well that's going to be an argument between tuners as everyone has their own opinion. I run 16.5 at idle and 14.9-15.2 at cruise on all engines and 12.8 n/a at WOT and 11.5-11.8 WOT on FI engines depending on boost.

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