Roll cage question....

[98maro]

Ok first I have to say I couldn't find a place to post this.
Idk where it belongs..

I never being a big fan of roll cages but lately I been looking around and they look good.
What is the purpose of the roll cage?
I have heard it makes the chasy stronger.
But I don't know that else is good for.
Any one here has it?
If you guys can post pics.

Another thing. Is there a place I can buy it? I seen some on eBay for less than 500 dollars. I don't know if that's a fair price.

I don't want to remove the Raer seats.
Is it possible to keep the seats with roll cage?

Any help will be appreciated.

[98TransAmWs-6]

This is the best explanation I could find since for some odd reason I couldn't put it into words . A roll cage is a specially constructed frame built in (or sometimes around) the cab of a vehicle to protect its occupants from being injured in an accident, particularly in the event of a roll-over. Roll cages are used in nearly all purpose-built racecars, and in most cars modified for racing. There are many different roll cage designs depending on the application, hence different racing organizations have differing specifications and regulations. They also help to stiffen the chassis, which is desirable in racing applications.

Also Wolfe Racecraft makes a roll cage that you can keep the rear seats with, it would be hard to get back there though. Here it is on a thead on tech Wolfe Racecraft roll cage - LS1TECH ,it is the 6th post down.

[transamtom]

Don't install a roll cage in your street car until you get thrown off the dragstrip.

Get some subframe connectors to tighten things up.

[ls1camino]

You're not going to be able to use the back seat, even if you do keep it in the car. It's almost physically impossible to get back there, then even if you get someone back there, if you get into an accident their heads are bouncing around by steel bars.

Here are some pics of mine:

[98maro]

Thanks guys.
I know it's in case the car rolls over. But I also read that makes the car more stronger on the body since is welded. I'm not sure bout that. Never had one
I think looks good too.
The back sit I don't think I'm gonna use it anyway.
But I don't wanna take them off for many reasons.
I'll be getting subframe connectors too.
I was curious bout the roll cage.

Thanks for the pics bro. Looks badass

So on a dd is not recommended?

[Ed Blown Vert]

I bought mine from Wolfe Race Craft - Home Page

[Firebirdjones]

You're not going to be able to use the back seat, even if you do keep it in the car. It's almost physically impossible to get back there, then even if you get someone back there, if you get into an accident their heads are bouncing around by steel bars.

Here are some pics of mine:

You do have those shoulder straps mounted to the cross bar,,,,,,,right??

[Firebirdjones]

Thanks guys.
I know it's in case the car rolls over. But I also read that makes the car more stronger on the body since is welded. I'm not sure bout that. Never had one
I think looks good too.
The back sit I don't think I'm gonna use it anyway.
But I don't wanna take them off for many reasons.
I'll be getting subframe connectors too.
I was curious bout the roll cage.

Thanks for the pics bro. Looks badass

So on a dd is not recommended?

In my opinion,,,,,,,,no. I would only do a roll bar if you are under the recommended ET limit, which is 11.49 for a full roof car, or 13.49 for a vert.
Even then I don't do it. I've been under the limit for years, and have found some tracks let it slide since they are street cars that don't see regular track use. Other places are more strict. It would depend on your situation before I made a decision like that. I certainly wouldn't throw one in just for the hell of it. Nothing worse than seeing a "pretend" car,,,but that's just me.

[ls1camino]

You do have those shoulder straps mounted to the cross bar,,,,,,,right??

Yes, they're wrapped around through the silver "buckles", I just haven't figured out what to do with the excess.

[98maro]

thanks guys...
i forgot bout this thread,,

for now my car is all stock, in the future will be modding the motor and rear end, nitrous and all that, so hopefully i can be on 11s.. or better, will take time and money for that..
and i heard that on some tracks if you run nitrous car must have a roll cage and use a helmet.. so i think i'm gonna need the roll cage, still looking around.
also the bar between the seats and door panel seems it can protect the driver in case of a side impact.. in this cars that's one thing i'm afraid of, side impacts.. i don't trust this cars on that lol..

more pics welcome!

[35th-ANV-SS]

As FBJ mentioned, NHRA rules state you only have to have a roll cage if you are under the ET of 11.49. Most "mom and pop" tracks do not require a roll cage or the use of a helmet.

Every track is different though. If a track regularly holds events, such as one of the ones close to me (Route 66 Dragway), then they usually have a stiffer tech inspection and will require you do follow the rules of the NHRA.

Here are the rules from a year or two ago. They may have changed in 2011.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.

The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.

-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.

-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)

-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)

-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)

9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:

-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.

-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division).

-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required.

-Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)

-Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off.

-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.

-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.

Parachutes:

-Required at 150 mph no et restriction

[pajeff02]

^^ Damn good info. By chance, is there anything like this posted in our Drag Racing section? If not, let's get it over there and sticky it.

[Firebirdjones]

For some reason the blow proof bellhousing stuff was left out of there. That would be an important issue on this site since there seems to be alot of excitement over the 6 speeds.

There is a requirement for the blow proof and the ET varies as to whether you are using sticky tires or not. Off the top of my head it's quicker than 12.99 with stock street tires, or 11.49 with sticky tires, but I'd have to check to verify exactly. It just about follows the driveshaft safety loop requirements.


Edit: Anything 11.99 or quicker a blowproof is MANDATORY regardless of tire.

So that should be included in the valve stem requirements.