Rod bolt problem!!!!!
This is a discussion on Rod bolt problem!!!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What up LS1's.....OK I'm currently installing ARP rod bolts. Anyone ever had a problem with stripping the bolt with EASE??!! ...
12-12-2009, 03:19 PM #1
Rod bolt problem!!!!!
What up LS1's.....OK I'm currently installing ARP rod bolts. Anyone ever had a problem with stripping the bolt with EASE??!! I mean gracious...I barely get into the second pass of 45-inch/lbs and it starts to strip. Anyone who's used ARP knows when you strip them just ONCE, you CANNOT continue from THAT point.
So, this means I have most of my bolts done with 3 passes of 45-inch/lbs as instructed on the ARP directions. However on 2-4 bolts I have some that are 2 passes of 45, and one is only one pass BEFORE the bolt stripped rendering my 2nd and 3rd pass useless!!! So, where do I go from here??? What can I expect in terms of how this will affect the overall project??? Will my car even be driveable???? Thanks in advances...need some help on this one for sure!
12-12-2009, 05:11 PM #2
Im not sure what Arp calls for but i if i remember correctly the last two rebuilds i did i torqued the main's at 15 ft lbs first pass and seconded was 85 degrees.
J2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....
12-12-2009, 05:39 PM #3
ORION where you at my man! I know you have a good answer for me!?lol
12-12-2009, 06:49 PM #4
I'm not going to get into all the conflicting stuff too much because I don't want to spread something I don't know for sure but some have said ARP recommends you resize the rod when using their bolts. Not sure why or if that's even true but you may want to call ARP and see what they say and tell them about your issue. I most definitely wouldn't put it back together until you get those bolts torqued correctly.
12-12-2009, 07:28 PM #5
i used them with my last rebuild and had no problems of any short did you install them on new rods or your old ones?
12-12-2009, 11:51 PM #6
12-12-2009, 11:56 PM #7
12-13-2009, 07:05 AM #8
If you have the heads pulled, you can pop the pistons out and install a set of H-Beam rods and new bearings.
12-13-2009, 01:14 PM #9
Orion is right with his comments on resizing the rods.
Working in and around a machine shop, we never installed any brand of rod bolts without resizing the rods,,,,period. It was always a part of the procedure.
Problem with LS rods,,,is they are snap cap design and cannot be resized,,,since the parting lines are not always exactly parrallel to begin with. So it's a win/lose situation really. I'd personally rather spring for a complete rod setup than chance new bolts in old rods that aren't resized.
We always used ARP bolts without issues, in all parts of the engine builds. We also always resized the rods, or new (better) rods were purchased.
I didn't see any mention of the moly lube ARP recommends on there bolts when torquing to spec. I assume you did use this??? Makes a huge difference in torque readings. Without it you could very possibly strip threads as you have probably far exceeded the recommended torque settings without the lube in place.
12-13-2009, 01:46 PM #10
12-13-2009, 01:54 PM #11
Any help bro I would appreciate on this.
12-13-2009, 02:28 PM #12
Since you are this far into it,,,I'd talk to ARP and finish what you started.
I like Bills idea, but swapping rods around and/or pistons cause balance issues. Balancing everything is another ballgame all together.
Again, maybe people get away with it, but it's not something I would personally do.
Then I would get into the question of,,,,"well since I removed the heads it's a great time for some cnc ported goodies"
Before I was done I'd have an entire forged rotating assembly with AFR's turning a relatively cheap and easy weekend job into a $6,000 project.
I would replace the stripped bolts and finish what you started, button it back up,,,otherwise I think you are opening up another can of worms.
12-13-2009, 02:52 PM #13
Yeah, but how do you replace stripped bolts????? Maybe I'm not saying this right; it's the ARP bolt head that is stripped. So the head to the bolt wont hold the 10mm, thus I'm kinda stuck. Does this mean I need to take all the rods out??? Can I take them out and take them to a machine shop and have them remove the bolt HEADS that are stripped? Or do I just install the remaining 4 I have left with ARP lube and pray for the Best?! This is a tough one man....
12-13-2009, 03:40 PM #14
I guess I was misunderstanding you also. I thought they were stripped in the rods but it's just the bolt head that's stripped? Much better predicament than what I was thinking you were in.
Try a standard on it or a size smaller metric...... I'm thinking those might be standard to begin with ain't they? Either way if all else fails get out your trusty pair of vice grips and get those suckers out of there. What point socket were you using on those?
12-13-2009, 03:42 PM #15
actually, I think craftsman makes sockets that are supposed to grab onto anything. Maybe grab a set of those.
12-13-2009, 03:43 PM #16
12-13-2009, 03:47 PM #17
I also completely misunderstood your situation. This is not nearly as bad.
Those are probably a 12 point head right? What point socket was used? Not that it matters now.
Vise gribs might work. You said the head was a 10 mm correct? See if you cant squeeze a 3/8 on there. I have used a chisel and a hammer MANY times to remove fasteners in this situation before. Welding a nut is probably not an option here, as it might transfer too much heat to the bearing. But welding a nut on the stripped head is very easy, and the most effective method. Its what I always do.370 CI - Twin 6766 Turbo - Jakes stage 5 4L80E - MWC 9" - Holley Dominator
Build in progress...
12-13-2009, 03:50 PM #18
Drilling with an easy out works also. Left handed drill bits work well with studs that are not rusted. In your case, a left handed drill bit might work. If not, you have a nice hole to smack an "easy out" in and turn it out.
12-13-2009, 08:42 PM #19
12-13-2009, 08:44 PM #20
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