Results of my last tune session

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-30-2015, 08:31 AM

Ok, So been holding off on this post because I wanted to run a compression test that my tuner requested I do after this last attempt to get it tuned.

Ran the compression test yesterday and here are the results:

Cly # Open/Close Throttle
1- 195/200
3- 200/210
5- 200/190
7- 190/190

2- 190/190
4- 185/185
6- 190/190
8- 180/180
On this side I can't say for 100% certain that the gauge was fully seated, It was a MOFO Bitch to get the adapter on.

I don't see anything that looks concerning but hey I could be wrong

So here's the issues. He has tried every trick he knows to get it to idle correctly. Every time you step on the gas there is a miss/hesitation then it roars up like nothing wrong. WOT he has no issues, only at idle and initial climb in rpms. It is also fowling the plugs out fast, like the new set we dropped in fowled out in 2-3 hrs of trying to tune it. He found a couple of issues that could have caused this but at this point it's a guess. Those were: The fuel firing data table was adjusted (He reset it to correct table) and all O2's off (I know & he explained that the last tuner might have done this because of the previous injector issues that were replaced for this session). Both have been reset.

Here's what he wants me to do:

1- Compression Test - DONE & report back to him. Besides the serious checks here he said he's looking for signs that the valves might be slightly open due to the push rods being a hair too long.

2- Injectors - Opt A - Test, clean & rebuild them to make sure they are in fact running correctly (Est Cost $225) OR OPT B - He'll give me a couple of recommendations on injectors to purchase for my build (Est Cost $400-500).

3- OPTION A -Borrow a stock size SLP Airlid and bring my stock MAF. He want's to use the MAF as a gauge to measure the airflow going into the motor. He has software that will input it into some tables that will let him build a SD tune. We'll have to drive it around and put it through different conditions but once it's all done I drop the MAF and run it SD.
OPTION B - Get a 99< wire harness & ECM, doing SD tunes are easier to do then on a 97-98 ECM. Something about they rely heavy on MAF sensor. This option is much more expensive because it will also mean a 99< dash cluster which I'm not a fan of.

4- Relocate the MAP Sensor to the front of my FAST Intake. We found it broke on the day of tuning and made a quick fix. After the New Year I'll have this done.

5- Button up the exhaust - Already planning on it

6- Install a WideBand A/F gauge is optional but not needed, he said to get it if I really wanted one. (Already planned on getting one)

The last 3 are not a issue for me, it's the first 3. Any suggestions/input?

**jrbonds** · 11-30-2015, 09:05 AM

Or new tuner?

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-30-2015, 10:12 AM

Can't fault him, he's very good and has been around for quite a long time.

**jrbonds** · 11-30-2015, 10:24 AM

Copy and paste all of that into a post on Southwest Trans Am. I'd be interested to hear what a few of them would say.

**pajeff02** · 11-30-2015, 11:22 AM

Interesting... curious to know what the issue is. Certainly sounds like a fueling issue. Do you have a gauge on your fuel pressure?

***SMWS6TA*** · 11-30-2015, 11:28 AM

Yes, reads 57psi, new Racetronix pump, fuel filter and Bosh 13111's O2 senors too.

Also forgot to add in 1st post.

The plugs I swapped out on the day of tuning were black as hell. Like super rich in fuel. The plugs he swapped in after I left the car with him I checked as I pulled them out for the compression check were not nearly as bad. Still look likes it running a little rich but they weren't black as coal. I should also add it does move under it's own power and runs just idles like crap.

**Whamhammer** · 11-30-2015, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Yes, reads 57psi, new Racetronix pump, fuel filter and Bosh 13111's O2 senors too.

Also forgot to add in 1st post.

The plugs I swapped out on the day of tuning were black as hell. Like super rich in fuel. The plugs he swapped in after I left the car with him I checked as I pulled them out for the compression check were not nearly as bad. Still look likes it running a little rich but they weren't black as coal. I should also add it does move under it's own power and runs just idles like crap.

Bad/Stuck IAC pintle?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 12-01-2015, 05:14 AM

What spark plugs are you using?

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-01-2015, 06:19 AM

NGK TR6's and it also has New MSD Super Conductor plug wires.

**cammed goat** · 12-02-2015, 05:32 PM

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Bad/Stuck IAC pintle?

That's what I'm wondering too. For the past few months, mine has been shutting off right after startup on and off. Start it up again, and starts and idles just fine. Pulled my IAC and it was pretty dirty. Cleaned it off and it still stalls after startup, but not as much. Might replace mine soon.

***SMWS6TA*** · 12-03-2015, 06:12 AM

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Bad/Stuck IAC pintle?

Can you test them?

**35th-ANV-SS** · 12-03-2015, 06:39 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Originally Posted by Whamhammer

Bad/Stuck IAC pintle?

Can you test them?

Yes. Codes P505 to P509 indicate a fault with the idle speed control system.

The diagnostic procedure involves disconnecting ISC motor, then starting the engine to see if the idle speed increases (it should). Turn the engine off, reconnect IAC and start the engine again. This time the idle speed should return to normal. If it does, the problem is not in the IAC circuit or motor.