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07-16-2011, 10:25 AM #1
Replaced My Secondary Air Check Valve
I know this has been talked about before but i thought i would share my experience. I was getting SES code P1416 for the passenger side check valve.
I couldn't remove the valve while it was on the car so i removed the metal pipe connected to it. After putting it on a vise i still could not unscrew it.
The only way i was able to unscrew it was to use a dremel and carefully cut a section where the threads would be. Purchased the valve from Advance Auto.
Thanks to this thread http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...ng-and-Removal for the help
Here are some pic's
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07-16-2011, 11:28 AM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- South Carolina
- Age
- 44
- Posts
- 39
Black, Black- 2000 Vette, 2006 MC SS
Heating the valve up with a torch works pretty good too, and it's a little faster. Looks like you got the job done though!
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07-16-2011, 12:54 PM #3
I tried heating it up, to a point where it started smoking from all the crap in the valve. Still wouldn't budge.
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07-16-2011, 05:54 PM #4
When I changed mine out (before removing the system entirely) I had to use a torch and a pipe wrench to break the check valves free from the pipe. Like you, I removed the stand pipes from the manifolds -- I was worried about cracking them while they were still bolted on.
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07-20-2011, 10:31 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- Location
- Newnan, Ga
- Age
- 56
- Posts
- 102
GM LeMans/Luxo Blue- 2001 Firebird Formula
I got a Frost Tune and they eliminated the AIR system completely. they also removed the rear o2 sensors. best $150 i EVER SPENT!
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07-23-2011, 08:17 AM #6
Did the same job a couple weeks ago for the P1416 code. Ran into the same problem with getting the valve off the pipe. Ended up removing the pipe from the manifold, driving it the tire shop, and seeing what they could come up with. The ended up using an angle grinder to get it off. I spent a few minutes with a wire brush cleaning all the corrosion off the pipe threads before screwing on the new valves.
Note for those who need to do this in the future - if you remove the air pipe, you'll probably want to replace the gasket that goes between the pipe and the manifold as well. It's GM part # 12553617, and it looks a lot like an EGR valve gasket, until you try to use an EGR valve gasket in place of a AIR check pipe gasket. I could only find it at the dealer; the local auto places only had EGR valve gaskets. $4 for 2.
That's an EGR valve gasket on the right...I learned the hard way.
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07-23-2011, 09:20 AM #7
I was going to replace the gasket too but the old looked good so i didn't.
Thanks for the part #
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07-28-2011, 02:46 PM #8
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