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removing broken studs....

This is a discussion on removing broken studs.... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So I new it would happen sooner or later,,,studs/bolts can only take so much after heat and time,,,and they were ...

  1. #1
    TerribleTed TerribleTed's Avatar
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    removing broken studs....

    So I new it would happen sooner or later,,,studs/bolts can only take so much after heat and time,,,and they were stock ones,,
    So,,here it the scoop,,,

    I have a 2000 stock z28 exhause headers,,and the studs/bolts ( one on each side) broke,,this is the area where the cats bolt up to the cast anchors chevy calls exhause manifolds,,,
    There are 2 studs per side,,,and I busted off 1 from each side,

    So I have like less than a quarter of an inch extending from the manifold flat part to work with,,,
    I tried special penetrant lubes and then tried the type of remove that goes over the left over bolt head part that you smack onto it and then unscrew it,,that did not work,,,so I know I need to do some drill work,,

    SO in regards to drilling technique,,,I need help with this,,

    How far in do I drill and what is the best srude remover kit,,,a strong one that is,,, and or any special thoghts on this issue I currently have,,

    Thanks

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    You could use these types of extractors. You just have to drill through the center of the stud deep enough for these to go in deep enough and bite.




    ^^^this is the style I use. However, I will caution you. In the small sizes, they can break off inside the stud. When that happens you are really screwed. These tools are hardened and can't really be drill through.
    The best method to remove the broken studs is to heat up the flange with an oxy acetylene torch until its glowing hot. then use a vise grips to spin the stud out. Depending on how tight the work area is, it may be easier to remove the manifold from the car to do it.

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    TerribleTed TerribleTed's Avatar
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    Thanks for the data,,,,I most likely will buy the above tools u mentioned. I will research the best ones, then get em and try em,,then if worse cvomes to worse,,,,remove the ex.heads and do the dirty work needed.
    I may just end up if removing them and fiding a set of those short tube headers that offer no gains but look perty and all. I am sure if I search enough I can find those types cheap...I hope the drill method above will do the trick,,,

    Damn its a tuff job being such a stud,,,ha ha

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    You could use these types of extractors. You just have to drill through the center of the stud deep enough for these to go in deep enough and bite.

    Click for full size
    Click for full size

    ^^^this is the style I use. However, I will caution you. In the small sizes, they can break off inside the stud. When that happens you are really screwed. These tools are hardened and can't really be drill through.
    The best method to remove the broken studs is to heat up the flange with an oxy acetylene torch until its glowing hot. then use a vise grips to spin the stud out. Depending on how tight the work area is, it may be easier to remove the manifold from the car to do it.

    Yepp i agree completely, stay away from "square type" extractors, there garbage and snap easy...
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    As Cutlass stated -- just be careful you don't break the extractor off in the hole. Been there and done that... never again. One thing I have noticed is that some exhaust bolts seem to be extremely hard and do not drill easily. I can't imagine it's getting hot enough to change the metallurgical properties of the bolts, but that has been my experience. Cutlass?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    As Cutlass stated -- just be careful you don't break the extractor off in the hole. Been there and done that... never again. One thing I have noticed is that some exhaust bolts seem to be extremely hard and do not drill easily. I can't imagine it's getting hot enough to change the metallurgical properties of the bolts, but that has been my experience. Cutlass?
    Sharpen your drill bits
    But no, I haven't experienced that that I can remember.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Sharpen your drill bits
    But no, I haven't experienced that that I can remember.

    I did -- and tried other bits as well. Same result. The most recent incident was on a '94 Corvette that we replaced the rear main seal in. Dropping the exhaust, we had one bolt break and it was a monster to drill it out.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    yep those bolts are probably hardened or became hardened from the heat or something. Not really sure

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    Kool data all...Its time to get a bitchen set of drill out tools,then go to church and pray some,,then get err dunn....or screw the pooch sum mo....

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    Anyone have any idea how to get a broken exhaust bolt out of an alm head? for where its at using the extractors is kinda hard could take the head off but damn.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BowTieCJ7 View Post
    Anyone have any idea how to get a broken exhaust bolt out of an alm head? for where its at using the extractors is kinda hard could take the head off but damn.

    Broke off flush with the head?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    As Cutlass stated -- just be careful you don't break the extractor off in the hole. Been there and done that... never again. One thing I have noticed is that some exhaust bolts seem to be extremely hard and do not drill easily. I can't imagine it's getting hot enough to change the metallurgical properties of the bolts, but that has been my experience. Cutlass?
    Yes, it does.. The combination of carbon that is found in used motor oil and the high heat (sometimes cherry red from just running @ speed) can make them even harder over time..
    Last edited by Smittro; 09-29-2010 at 07:08 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Yes, it does.. The combination of carbon that is found in used motor oil and the high heat (sometimes cherry red from just running @ speed) can make them even harder over time..

    Good to know I am not crazy... well, you know what I mean.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Broke off flush with the head?
    No its sticking out 1/4 inch i guess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Good to know I am not crazy... well, you know what I mean.
    There's more to it than that, but flame forgers will sometimes "quench" a cherry peice in an oil carbon bath as part of tempering the steel.. Used motor has been used aswell..

    Add that as a possibility, and the fact that the 2 different metals don't like eachother naturally.. Aluminum tends to corrode when placed up against steel.. This can make for some very tight bolts..
    Last edited by Smittro; 09-29-2010 at 11:45 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BowTieCJ7 View Post
    No its sticking out 1/4 inch i guess.

    Which cylinder are you working on? If there is any room you might try some light heat with a propane torch and melt some candle wax into the threads. Then try to grab the bolt with a pair of vice grips. Need to be very careful as the heads are aluminum.

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