Reliable 500 HP

**smbyda** · 06-03-2008, 05:47 PM

I am looking to build an naturally aspirated LS1 2001 to 500 hp at the rear wheels. What is the best route to take to get the power out of the engine and still keep the engine reliable and street worthy.

I do not want to put headers on the car due to the under the hood heating problems that can occur and keep the volume down on noise.

Alerady have an SLP cold air box set up and Y pipe.

**bige97** · 06-03-2008, 06:08 PM

if you want the power you have to let the car breath so you got to open it up

**Johns00Z28** · 06-03-2008, 06:37 PM

Originally Posted by smbyda

I am looking to build an naturally aspirated LS1 2001 to 500 hp at the rear wheels. What is the best route to take to get the power out of the engine and still keep the engine reliable and street worthy.

I do not want to put headers on the car due to the under the hood heating problems that can occur and keep the volume down on noise.

Alerady have an SLP cold air box set up and Y pipe.

You will need a head/cam/intake and full bolt-ons including long tube headers. You can get a tame catback and still keep it from being too loud.

**itsfess** · 06-03-2008, 06:44 PM

Do u mean reliable or streetable? If you want an honest N/A 500rwhp that you can actually drive your probably gonna need more cubes.
I may be wrong but i don't know how friendly the cam that can make those numbers in a 346 will be.

**Sarge** · 06-04-2008, 03:36 AM

Long Tube Headers ceramic coated will be cooler than your stock exhaust manifolds you have now.
So....
LT Headers w/catback
Heads
Cam
CAI
FAST Intake
Nick Williams Throttle Body
Underdrive Pulley
Electric Water Pump
Fuel Pump w/larger injectors
Tune
Your now in the mid 400's which is about max for a stock bottom end.....now upgrade your rear end and chassis

**toofpaste** · 06-04-2008, 05:43 AM

Originally Posted by smbyda

I am looking to build an naturally aspirated LS1 2001 to 500 hp at the rear wheels. What is the best route to take to get the power out of the engine and still keep the engine reliable and street worthy.

I do not want to put headers on the car due to the under the hood heating problems that can occur and keep the volume down on noise.

Alerady have an SLP cold air box set up and Y pipe.

Theres no way you can get 500 rwhp without heads.

**INMY01TA** · 06-04-2008, 05:51 AM

Procharger?

**toofpaste** · 06-04-2008, 05:54 AM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

Procharger?

It'll make too much noise lol

**Midnight02** · 06-04-2008, 06:09 AM

We really need to take a look at the priority of your various goals.

If your ultimate goal is to get to an honest 500 rwhp (N/A), then you are going to need to make a few choices/sacrafices.

500 rwhp N/A on a stock cube motor is really starting to squeeze things a bit, however it can be accomplished. In order to accomplish this, you will need a pretty aggressive cam matched with a set of very good heads. You will ABSOLUTELY need full exhaust (and that will include headers, cutouts/duals/etc. and no cats).....Sure it might be able to be accomplished with cats on the car, however that is just one more restriction you'll have to find a way to overcome. Toss all of the bolt ons mentioned in the thread above and with a good tune, you have a shot at getting there.

After taking a close look at what it will take to get to 500 rwhp N/A, you might realize that you just sacraficed a good bit of driveability (street manners), you didn't meet your criteria for "no headers" and you should have a pretty aggressive exhaust note.

If you're still dead set on 500 rwhp, let us know and we can give you a few suggestions, however if you're looking for certain performance under certain conditions (i.e. running 10's or 11's with a street friendly setup, etc.) give us a little more info on that and we can help.