Rear Rotor removal

**psycho_puppies** · 11-05-2011, 07:25 PM

I was able to get the drivers side rear rotor off easily. The passenger side rear rotor seems to be sealed shut with rust. I’ve hit it with a ton of liquid wrench and smacked the crap out of it with a rubber mallet. I tried to do the bolt trick I saw on you tube but our cars will not allow access to the rotor from those bolt holes. Tomorrow I’m going to try using a bottle jack against the frame to push against the rotor. Does anyone see a problem I could cause with that?
If anyone has a better idea please let me know.

**cammed goat** · 11-05-2011, 07:42 PM

Sounds like the rotor has a lip cut into it from the parking brake. Did you take out the rubber plug on the rotor and spin it to when you see the parking brake adjuster and loosen it?

**psycho_puppies** · 11-05-2011, 08:00 PM

The rotor will spin by hand. There is a rubber plug on the rotor? Please explain more. I appreciate any help you can give me.

**cammed goat** · 11-05-2011, 08:05 PM

If the wheel is off the axle, there should be a rubber plug between two of the studs to allow access to the adjuster screw. Should be on the very bottom of the axle.

**psycho_puppies** · 11-05-2011, 08:16 PM

I just went under the car and did not see what you're talking about. I will check again in the AM when I have more energy and not so pissed off at this thing. Right now the car is jack stands so I have access. Can you point me to a pict or a video?

**cammed goat** · 11-05-2011, 08:34 PM

The hole at the very top and bottom of the rotor is the access hole for the adjuster.

**psycho_puppies** · 11-06-2011, 01:28 AM

Mine does not have that hole.

**psycho_puppies** · 11-06-2011, 01:33 AM

It looks like this with holes just for the lug nut bolts. Pontiac Firebird Trans Am 98 99 00 Brake Rotors Pads R | eBay

**Smittro** · 11-06-2011, 04:36 AM

Originally Posted by cammed goat

The hole at the very top and bottom of the rotor is the access hole for the adjuster.

F-bodies don't have that, rotors are totaly different..

OP, prolly some rust build up between the hub and rotor hub bore..

Try using a wire brush and go around the area then hit it with some penetrating oil then smack it with a rubber mallet, should come off..

Do this in a turn it hit it, turn it hit it fassion..

**Knight** · 11-06-2011, 05:10 AM

If the rotor spins, I wouldn't expect the hub to be the issue, although possible. I agree with Rich, sounds more like the parking brake is holding it. You could try removing the parking brake cable, or engaging and disengaging the parking brake a few times to try to loosen the shoe. A couple of pry bars should be able to get it to slide over the shoe.

**Smittro** · 11-06-2011, 05:37 AM

Originally Posted by Knight

If the rotor spins, I wouldn't expect the hub to be the issue, although possible. I agree with Rich, sounds more like the parking brake is holding it. You could try removing the parking brake cable, or engaging and disengaging the parking brake a few times to try to loosen the shoe. A couple of pry bars should be able to get it to slide over the shoe.

You're not getting what I am talking about..

I did'nt say there was an issue with the hub..

I am talking about the rust that builds up between the rotor hub bore and the hub itself..

Has nothing to do with weather hub spins freely or not..

Ratcheting the hand break lever may serve to only tighten the break ring as that is how they "self" adjust..

Has more to do with the rotor stuck on the hub..

F-bodies with rear disk brakes have a ring style parking break with a very thin shoe wrapped around it..

Not likely to be any real lip as the ring compresses quite far when the hand brake is not in use..

**Knight** · 11-06-2011, 05:59 AM

I understood what you meant, Steven. In my experience, it's always been the parking brake shoe. While it is supposed to self-adjust, we all know how that works, or rather doesn't. It does cause a ring to develop on the drum, and while it's only a small lip, it keeps the rotor from being removed. By using a couple of pry bars, the OP will easily be able to tell if it's the parking brake or the hub bore. If he is able to get some seperation between the rotor from the backing plate, it would be the parking brake shoe, as it will allow for some movement and he should be avle to see the seperation of the hub and the bore. If he is unable to get any seperation, the it would be the hub and bore.

Again, I'm just listing another option on what the problem may be.

**pajeff02** · 11-06-2011, 06:04 AM

Happens all the time. Take a propane torch and gently heat the rotor around the hub in the area of the wheel studs. After a minute or two, smack it with your rubber mallet and she'll pop right off. The torch does not get hot enough to alter the metallurgy and this has worked every time for me.

**psycho_puppies** · 11-06-2011, 06:44 AM

I purchased a bottle jack this morning and it's too big to use for this purpose. Will this torch work? Walmart.com: Worthington Pro Grade Self-Igniting Torch with Plumbing Kit: Tools

**raspy/ws6** · 11-06-2011, 07:35 AM

take a hammer smack it around the drum part and if the rotor gets some play and it dont slide out then it means youre ebrake has cut a pretty deep lip in there take youre rubber mallet and just keep hitting it from the back till it comes off i had the same problem with mine i took and big ass hammer and hit it till it came off but i was also replacing my rotors.

**pajeff02** · 11-06-2011, 08:11 AM

Rather than brute force... try the fire wrench. It works.

**KMdef9** · 11-06-2011, 07:00 PM

I like Jeff's idea with Steven's. With my addition, you should have no issues.

Hit it from the back! lol

BUT.... make sure you car is very securely jacked, as this will require to be completely underneath the car.