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Rear Main Seal

This is a discussion on Rear Main Seal within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Next week I'm fixing a couple of things forcing me to drop the tranny and clutch out. So while I'm ...

  1. #1
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Rear Main Seal

    Next week I'm fixing a couple of things forcing me to drop the tranny and clutch out. So while I'm there I think it's time to replace the rear main seal while I'm there.

    I'm a little confuse by the diagrams. Will I have to take the oil pan off to replace the rear main?

    It looks like in this diagram below that I need to remove several bolts, including a couple from the bottom of the oil pan.


    Borrowing a pic from another user I've circled in yellow what looks like the bolts that need to be removed. Are these correct?

    The arrows in red are where I think the oil pan volts have to be removed.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    I've never heard of dropping the pan to replace a rear main. I've always seen a seal puller used to pry out the old seal and using a small hammer to lightly tap the new seal in place.

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    Member LS1Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Next week I'm fixing a couple of things forcing me to drop the tranny and clutch out. So while I'm there I think it's time to replace the rear main seal while I'm there.

    I'm a little confuse by the diagrams. Will I have to take the oil pan off to replace the rear main?

    It looks like in this diagram below that I need to remove several bolts, including a couple from the bottom of the oil pan.
    Click for full size

    Borrowing a pic from another user I've circled in yellow what looks like the bolts that need to be removed. Are these correct?

    The arrows in red are where I think the oil pan volts have to be removed.
    Click for full size
    Those are the bolts. I hope you have the cover alignment tools other wise it will leak.

  4. #4
    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    You dont have to pull the rear cover when instailing a new seal, just pry the old seal out, be careful not to nick or scratch the alum. I always use a radiator pick, lubricate the new seal with some clean engine oil, lightly tap it into place, then place the old seal over the new one and tap it in evenly until flush. Then check to ensure you didnt pop off the internal spring on the seal and you should be good to go. You can pick up a "seal Installer" tool but you dont need it.
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    thanks

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    Next... MrKid's Avatar
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    While you're in there, might as well replace your pilot bearing.

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I'm out of $$$ for parts. I've got to replace Master, Slave, Hydraulic Clutch, Bell Housing. The first 3 are because some A-hole from a shop that was suppose to bleed my clutch put in ATF instead of Dot III Brake Fluid so the whole system is compromise and the bell housing is because when I installed my LS7 Clutch kit in Apr one of the dog ears broke and I'm afraid it will crack all the way through with the more bolt-ons I plan on doing later.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    ^^^Use DOT 4, it has a higher temp rating

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    ^^^Use DOT 4, it has a higher temp rating
    Cutlass Dot $ is safe to use for the clutch? I just don't want or need to spend another $300 for master/slave again. wife is already pissed that I'm getting the bell housing.

  10. #10
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    DOT 3 and 4 are interchangeable. I used DOT 4 in mine when I did the drill mod

  11. #11
    Next... MrKid's Avatar
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    Same here. Maybe it's in my head, but it seems to make for a stiffer pedal, and less fade when the weather/engine get hot.

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