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Rear defrost does not work

This is a discussion on Rear defrost does not work within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Does any one know how to figure out if the defrost switch is bad or if it is an element ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Rear defrost does not work

    Does any one know how to figure out if the defrost switch is bad or if it is an element problem?

    I have checked all the fuses inside and out. There are all good, and my power seat works, .

    I press the button I can hear the switch click, but no light.

    I was wondering if there is a way to measure the switch and see if it is bad. I am told you have to replace the full control panel for just that one switch, that sucks.

    I don't want to order an expensive part and find out the problem is some where else, like the element. The care does not appear to ever have window tint. Even on my 99 when I removed the tint the element was still good, just took twice as long.

    The only way I know to replace a faulty element is spend about 350 bucks on new glass.

    before any one points out the obvious, i have absolutely the worst luck at local u-pull its. One is owned by LKQ the ebay bandits and others, well, i never seem to find any F-bodies, or at least none with parts on them, . It seems the local salvage yards pull the hot items fist and sell them from the counter, ouch, or worse ebay them. Still I would rather drop 350 on new professionally installed and warrantied glass than a u-pull failure, .

  2. #2
    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    Start with the basics: Check your fuse, if you can get to the back of the switch probe it for power with a test meter, check any ground connections, look at your wiring to your hatch, check the connections to the grid, and then look your grid over for any breaks. Could be something simple...

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    That guy thearborbarber's Avatar
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    The wires broken where the rear window defrost grid gets its power from. They broke right near the gas shocks that hold the rear window up. They flex there as the window does up and down and eventually broke.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    the grids can be repaired and so can the wire that is connected to it. 3M makes the glue and repair kit. You may not be able to find it on their website, so I would suggest calling them.

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT View Post
    Is this car new to you?
    yep. The 99 z28 is off to a new home. When i was looking over the 02 z28 I never thought to press the defrost button. I felt like such a big dufuss. I was looking at all the things i remember about the 99 and never once thought of the defrost. I checked the speakers, A/C, blah blah... I felt so silly. I never rolled the windows down either. First day home I had the joy of replacing the driver window motor, DOH.

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Start with the basics: Check your fuse, if you can get to the back of the switch probe it for power with a test meter, check any ground connections, look at your wiring to your hatch, check the connections to the grid, and then look your grid over for any breaks. Could be something simple...
    Fuses are good. Any specific voltage or resistance I should measure? What wires are important? I'm sure there will be many colors back there.

    I will take a long look at the section on the glass that makes the wire and element connection.

  8. #8
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    the grids can be repaired and so can the wire that is connected to it. 3M makes the glue and repair kit. You may not be able to find it on their website, so I would suggest calling them.
    Huh, i didn't know that. I wish I did I would have repaired my old 99 z28. I had like a 2.5 to 1 on time after stripping the tint off, lol...

    As far as I could tell the element lines look good. I need to go check out the spot where the wires meet the elements in the upper corner though.

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thearborbarber View Post
    The wires broken where the rear window defrost grid gets its power from. They broke right near the gas shocks that hold the rear window up. They flex there as the window does up and down and eventually broke.
    do you know id this is repairable? I am guessing it is.

  10. #10
    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Just a little cutting and splicing, might want to extend the wires an inch or two to prevent the same problem from happening again...
    J
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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    the wires look ok to me. I looks like the solder on the window is good. The wires don't look bent or mangled. I'm not real sure what a broken wire back there would look like. But everything appears ok, that is without pulling off all the trim panels.

    Would the defrost light still light up if the real wire(s) were broken?

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    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    What you can do is pull the wires off the grid, and measure for 12 volts across them with a test light or multimeter. Gives the wires a jiggle back there as well, wires can break and not look like it on the outside.

    You say the light doesn't work? Might be as stupid as that, won;t be the only time I heard of a burnt out light causing issues.

  13. #13
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    ok tx. I will try to be gentle tomorrow. I will take my multi meter and see if i can measure 12V across the two.

    I take if I don't get 12V the switch is bad. What would you try next if I measure 12V? I'm thinking this is not likely, since a working switch would complete the circuit. If i measure 12V across the wires....well that is a working circuit too, right....

    Wouldn't I be able to measure voltage with out removing the wires?

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    my wife's 04 sebring read 10.49V when on. Mine reads a big fat zero.

    Guess I am out about 150 bucks for a new switch.

  15. #15
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    Yup the switch going bad is common prob in our cars, well @ least that is what I was told by the tech when I had mine replaced under warranty..
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    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    not nessisarlly, there is a circuit breaker to check as well. first off, see it its hot, if not see if you get 12V there. it also powers the seats.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kool-aide View Post
    my wife's 04 sebring read 10.49V when on. Mine reads a big fat zero.

    Guess I am out about 150 bucks for a new switch.

    Try here: http://tacreationsusa.com/defogger_switches.htm

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orcus79 View Post
    not nessisarlly, there is a circuit breaker to check as well. first off, see it its hot, if not see if you get 12V there. it also powers the seats.
    all of the fuses are good, and the seat works.

    I may pull the dash after work one day and see what it looks like.

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    thank you. i'm not made of money but sometimes paying for a pulled part may not be worth it. I am going to see if i can get lucky at a local salvage yard. I just hate them because they pull all the glass, typically, and the cars sit out to rot under the hot sun and rain.

    who knows, maybe i will get lucky and find a nice used pull part, .

    anything can happen.

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Do you have 12v going into the switch?
    J

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