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Rattle in the middle or rear

This is a discussion on Rattle in the middle or rear within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; The tunnel brace was the issue. Ours is long gone, so I forget about that when it comes to diagnosing ...

  1. #41
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    pajeff02's Avatar
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    The tunnel brace was the issue. Ours is long gone, so I forget about that when it comes to diagnosing under car noises.

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    Member Guerrillakilla13's Avatar
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    yeah, i was told I could remove that piece if I wanted to. I'm just kinda surprised at how everything started to rattle all at once, and it happened to be multiple things.

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    It does act as a pseudo driveshaft safety loop, so not a bad idea to keep it.

  4. #44
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Once everything is back together in the bird I plan on getting a DSL from UMI.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13 View Post
    It's really a friendly reminder to be very cautious in wherever you take your car for repairs.
    I cannot TELL you how paranoid I am of letting ANYONE touch my car! Every car I've ever owned (except my wife's Hondas), the dealer or other shop has tried to swindle me or done half-hearted work. Even had one dealer sabotage my Volvo and try to sell me an Audi off their used lot for a "good price."
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Once everything is back together in the bird I plan on getting a DSL from UMI.

    I run the larger diameter PST driveshaft and had just a touch of a clearance issue with the D/S loop on our tunnel mount brace. On dips in the road that would compress the rear suspension, I had a slight noise and it turned out the loop was just barely touching the driveshaft. I bent it down a bit to put an angle on it and this corrected the issue.

  7. #47
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    I run the same drive shaft as Jeff and read about some tight clearances due to the diameter so I opted to have a custom drive-shaft safety loop fabricated for my exact application. The fabricator charged me around the same price as what they cost elsewhere and the fitment was perfect. Just another option for you, but otherwise, UMI would be my go-to place.

    I hope to get some more things from them myself, eventually.

  8. #48
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Another option that I prefer is to use a chrome molly shaft. Because the material is stronger (and still lighter weight) they don't have to make it so fat so there aren't the clearance issues that you get with the fat aluminum shafts.

  9. #49
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Rattle in the middle or rear

    Now that I have a one-piece driveshaft, I'm considering a loop. Better to be safe than sorry if/when I go to the track again.


    extreme dimensions, driveshaft shop, harrop, hid(35watt/6k) lows, hurst, k&n, led fogs, maverick man, mishimoto, nitto, revshift, slp, stern st-1, smoked sidemarkers, whiteline poly radius rod bushings

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