View Poll Results: Is Ram Air BS?

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  • Yes it really adds mucho horsepower

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Is Ram Air BS?

This is a discussion on Is Ram Air BS? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by AKIRA You didnt answer my question, silly. Oh wait! I didnt add the "?" I did ask ...

  1. #41
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKIRA View Post
    You didnt answer my question, silly.

    Oh wait! I didnt add the "?"

    I did ask Cold air > Ram Air ?

    But now I want to ask...are you saying Ram Air doesnt exist in newer vehicles?
    Well tell me what in the hell > means and I'll answer your question...remember....I just traded my IBM typewriter in for this thing and aint up too speed on all the caveats of internet forums....cept tig ol bitties....I like that phrase....

  2. #42
    Impounded YoMommasTA's Avatar
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    caveats of internet forums have bean going down hill since buddy holly died

  3. #43
    Member Phlash_riot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Well tell me what in the hell > means and I'll answer your question...remember....I just traded my IBM typewriter in for this thing and aint up too speed on all the caveats of internet forums....cept tig ol bitties....I like that phrase....
    > is the greater than sign

    2 ">" 1

    4 "<" 7

    etc

    so for him

    cold air ">"(better than) ram air


    Ehh.. stick to your stong suit of... well everything on cars Sarge.

  4. #44
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    I think some real world tests should be in order! I always was under the assumption that the ram air would help, but gains wouldnt be as much as GM would claim...etc(3-4 real world HP gain). I figure it this way, if you put your hand out the window at anything over 50-60MPH, there is a definate pushing force towards the rear of the car. My question is, if there is an intake opening pushing colder outside air in towards the intake housing/air box how would the warm engine air be able to linger/find its way forward AT speed?. obviously at lower speeds the air would be allowed to linger and stay in the engine bay. Kinda like when your in highway traffic in stop and go, your temp gauge climbs, as soon as youve been up to speed for 20-30 seconds @ 50/60MPH all the hot air from within the engine area has cleared, temp goes down. In my opinion Ram Air probably helps, but not 1/2 as much as the general is claiming, but is probably better than stock....

  5. #45
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Bupkis. Nada. Squat. Zilch. Goose Egg.=RamAir

  6. #46
    Evr sena bdgr killa snak? Roastem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyjnjz View Post
    crack smokin ws6 owners...lol

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boos_WS6 View Post
    Lol
    Damn dude, that f*ckin WS6 is sweet! Dem hoz with the tig ole bitties are even sweeter!

  8. #48
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    Yes, you want the hot air out. Most of us do this by addressing the underside of the car rather than the top, that's where we want our cool clean air to come from.

    It's easy to work on the topside of your car, very few look at the slipstream going on underneath it.

    Is a tiny bit of practice worth 2/10ths to you?

  9. #49
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phlash_riot View Post
    > is the greater than sign

    2 ">" 1

    4 "<" 7

    etc

    so for him

    cold air ">"(better than) ram air


    Ehh.. stick to your stong suit of... well everything on cars Sarge.
    You'll have to look mighty hard to find me touting I'm a internet forum expert....LOL...yes CA>RA

  10. #50
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndforspd View Post
    I think some real world tests should be in order! I always was under the assumption that the ram air would help, but gains wouldnt be as much as GM would claim...etc(3-4 real world HP gain). I figure it this way, if you put your hand out the window at anything over 50-60MPH, there is a definate pushing force towards the rear of the car. My question is, if there is an intake opening pushing colder outside air in towards the intake housing/air box how would the warm engine air be able to linger/find its way forward AT speed?. obviously at lower speeds the air would be allowed to linger and stay in the engine bay. Kinda like when your in highway traffic in stop and go, your temp gauge climbs, as soon as youve been up to speed for 20-30 seconds @ 50/60MPH all the hot air from within the engine area has cleared, temp goes down. In my opinion Ram Air probably helps, but not 1/2 as much as the general is claiming, but is probably better than stock....
    Your hand aint sucking air like a giant vacuum is it? It is just a dead weight object experiencing friction against the wind. Now if you took a vacuum cleaner and at a dead stop measured the cfm ...then took the vacuum cleaner at got up to 70mph and stuck it out the window and measured cfm...guess what...it would be the same. Now at 70mph if I stuck my Johnson out the window the car would immediately take a hard left and roll 47 times due the massive air resistance of aforementioned Johnson. Now that is science right there I tell ya.

  11. #51
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    Tried that once, damn near pulled my pecker off. Yessir.

  12. #52
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  13. #53
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    Sarge, the studies have been in for some time.

    Kind of depends on how your intake is tuned to the engine. We can always benefit form a little positive pressure no matter how little, the tiniest amount can make a whale of difference.

    Take for example the L67 I run at times. Giving a nice stream of cold air at just a hair above atmospheric pressure put the temp after the supercharger a good 20* down.

    I know it doesn't belong in here but 320 HP 360 lb-ft of torque from a very mildly modded V6 is nothing to laugh at. A good Z28 or Trans Am, with a good driver and the 6 speed manual, can beat that car. A Mustang? They have to kiss my tailpipes.

    You'd die to see the LQ1 project I'm working on, if you have done any research you'd know that Lotus helped GM out designing the engine that eventually became the Northstar. Yes, 4 cams on the top. Starts to breathe around 3K then the valves (4 per cylinder) hit a sync and I have a pocket rocket on my hands. I don't even have headers on this thing yet ........

  14. #54
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Crowe View Post
    Sarge, the studies have been in for some time.

    Kind of depends on how your intake is tuned to the engine. We can always benefit form a little positive pressure no matter how little, the tiniest amount can make a whale of difference.

    Take for example the L67 I run at times. Giving a nice stream of cold air at just a hair above atmospheric pressure put the temp after the supercharger a good 20* down.

    I know it doesn't belong in here but 320 HP 360 lb-ft of torque from a very mildly modded V6 is nothing to laugh at. A good Z28 or Trans Am, with a good driver and the 6 speed manual, can beat that car. A Mustang? They have to kiss my tailpipes.

    You'd die to see the LQ1 project I'm working on, if you have done any research you'd know that Lotus helped GM out designing the engine that eventually became the Northstar. Yes, 4 cams on the top. Starts to breathe around 3K then the valves (4 per cylinder) hit a sync and I have a pocket rocket on my hands. I don't even have headers on this thing yet ........
    You are correct. Cold Air access makes more horsepower. And positive pressure is not found in front of the car.....studies? I've seen tons of em...saw some on royal purple/KN/The Tornado also ...what studies are you referencing here Steve? LOL...."be careful of "studies" my Okie friend....(my folks are all from Tecumseh and Shawnee by the way )
    sounds like you have a fun project....the 86 Vette I just bought has a 235hp L89....but 300+ torque....fun little car...I'd sure like to see one of these ram air studies your talking about as I have seen and been involved in a few....I may have read your post wrong....but RamAir and Forced Induction comments have me confused.....If your saying cold air to your FI made more RWHP...I agree...If your saying you utilized some RamAir setup to "force feed" your FI then me and you got a lot of discussin' to do
    Bottom line is RamAir is a marketing myth...cold air is good....and tuning....oh yeah....I run SD tune on all my babies....tuning I got

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    You are correct. Cold Air access makes more horsepower. And positive pressure is not found in front of the car.....studies? I've seen tons of em...saw some on royal purple/KN/The Tornado also ...what studies are you referencing here Steve? LOL...."be careful of "studies" my Okie friend....(my folks are all from Tecumseh and Shawnee by the way )
    sounds like you have a fun project....the 86 Vette I just bought has a 235hp L89....but 300+ torque....fun little car...I'd sure like to see one of these ram air studies your talking about as I have seen and been involved in a few....I may have read your post wrong....but RamAir and Forced Induction comments have me confused.....If your saying cold air to your FI made more RWHP...I agree...If your saying you utilized some RamAir setup to "force feed" your FI then me and you got a lot of discussin' to do
    Bottom line is RamAir is a marketing myth...cold air is good....and tuning....oh yeah....I run SD tune on all my babies....tuning I got
    I love a good fight on this but on the L67 I had to pull the driving lights out to pipe the air in. I do have a pressure sensor at the intake and the slight increase in pressure made the most incredible difference. FWI was of no help, I wanted 12s in 1/4. I got it.

    With a 3.4" pulley on the SC? I'm laughing, then again perhaps some of us are not. We broke 10s with the things and are searching for the 9s.

    Yea, we hail from the same place. My cars tend to drive to Shawnee at random but the police there are not quite as considerate as what we have here. Lived in McLoud for a couple of years, I will assume you know where that's at.

  16. #56
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    Sorry, didn't fill you in on the LQ1.

    I found 40 HP hiding in the intake and a tiny bit of tuning. I don't even think I need the Cadillac guys to redo the cams, that can be history. Headers? 16, tops.

  17. #57
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    i do notice that when i am running high speeds, the engine heat drops a little bit.

  18. #58
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    Hey Steve, what mods were you running on your GTP?, couldnt get mine better than a mid 13 on a 3.5...f'n slouch of a car!, thinkin of goin to the 3.4/3.25

  19. #59
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    On the L67?

    Most important turned out to a combo of things and going too small on the pulley will often cost you more than you gain. The M90 SC on this engine is already pushed pretty far and installing an intercooler (very costly) was not the solution.

    TOG headers, RT off road pipe as replacement for the cat. (We have no inspections here but they will provide it with a cat) Borla exhaust. Figure on a day to do that, putting headers on a transverse V6 is no fun.

    CAI - any good one will do but make sure you're pulling cold air - not from under the hood or behind the radiator.

    3.4" pulley to be safe. If your KR is low enough you can run a 3.25" but it's not really necessary.

    Now, if you have this down get a DHP PCM. If you have no core grab one at a local Pull-A-Part salvage yard and send that to them, just make sure it matches your year. Tell DHP exactly what your mods are and they'll write to it.

    Drive as you may but keep the best Premium gas you can in your tank. When you really want to race put your octane up to around 95. I can buy 106 from the pump here so I mix that in the tank with 91.

    Reset your PCM at least 4 hours before, I assume you know how to do that. 95 octane seems to be the best and that DHP PCM is going to advance the timing into the sweet zone. You better have good tires, I run Bridgestone Potenza RE750 on that car.

    Magnecor wires, 41-932 plugs. If you choose to go to a 3.25" pulley 41-919 or even 41-913 may be a better plug provided you understand those need a bit more spirited driving to keep clean.

    The trick, my friend, was in the exhaust and minor bolt on tuning. I was thinking about 1.7:1 lifters and may at a later date but that's a lot of time and I wouldn't change them without changing the pushrods, valve springs & retainers. The engine has never been opened,

    No, the exhaust on that car doesn't sound like thunder but it's highly tuned. I lost no in town torque either.
    Last edited by Steve Crowe; 12-17-2006 at 01:28 AM.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    You are correct. Cold Air access makes more horsepower.
    +1 ... I have SLP cai on my TA and it does work better than the "ram air" on ws6.. it cost $250 (cai + lid +filter) so I saved 600 since did not have to buy a ram air hood... kool

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