Proper way to seat rear springs?
This is a discussion on Proper way to seat rear springs? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; at least you caught it before bad shit started happening. Like someone said before most of that stuff back there ...
09-10-2014, 08:14 PM #21
at least you caught it before bad shit started happening. Like someone said before most of that stuff back there is torqued pretty good.....75-85 ft/lbs. I used to have a file that had all the torque specs on it but have no idea where it's at anymore. If I find it I'll send it to you.
09-11-2014, 03:45 AM #22
Torque wrenches are gonna be your best friend. You def dont want this type of problem happening the next time you mod your car. Buy yourself a decent torque wrench and live by the specs every time you do some type of work that requires torquing. The car manufacturers have those specs for a good reason. You got lucky something bad didn't happen on your test drive, but good to hear you found the problem and nothing seriously bad happened. I think it's AWESOME when a girl mods her own car and isn't afraid to get her hands dirty!!
09-11-2014, 05:45 AM #23
I don't mean this in a sexest way, but I had no idea you were a girl. I'm extremely impressed you're wrenching on the car and doing things most girls wouldn't have a clue with. Loose bolts or not, you got in there and tackled it and that's a thumbs up in my opinion. Glad you got it worked out.
Just a FYI, even alot of guys can't do this stuff right We've all had our moments.
09-11-2014, 06:34 AM #24
Do you not remember helping me with my 6.0 build last year? You helped tremendously through PM's. I still appreciate all the help.
09-11-2014, 09:05 AM #25
09-11-2014, 09:16 AM #26
2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Nashville, TN
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97 Camaro - Sold
09-11-2014, 06:01 PM #27
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- 1999 Trans-Am, 2012 Sonic
I just did the LAC's , panhard and Torq arm most of the Torq specs were 75lbs
You can pick up a decent Torq wrench at Harbor Freight for cheap they are right on spec for the most part ( checked it with a pricy one ). Wouldn't put a motor together but for most everything else they perform great.
Also don't forget to load the suspension before torquing anything99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
Strange S60 4:10's, D&S Rotors, S/S Brake Lines.
Nitto NT05R Track Tire's, 12.7 @ 108 / 1.82 60'
Coil overs, Heads & Cam
09-12-2014, 11:14 PM #28
09-13-2014, 05:11 AM #29
I agree with Orion. I have both a ft/lb torque wrench and an inch/lb torque wrench. Both craftsman brand. You really don't wanna take a chance with an inferior tool when it comes to something critical like torque specs. This is a case where "you get what you pay for" in my opinion. Maybe the HF wrench worked fine today, but maybe it wont in the future. Not a chance i wanna take when torquing down a $1000 FAST intake. Or worse yet, something that may fall off while driving down the beltway.
09-15-2014, 06:20 AM #30
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Ugy Lower Corner of AL
Navy Blue Metallic
- 98 T/A w/a little mods...
09-15-2014, 07:24 AM #31
I went and bought a craftsman this weekend. Sold some old car parts, so I had the money.
But no more problems with the suspension.
Just the clutch now. Ugh.
09-17-2014, 04:15 AM #32
When it rains it pours. You know as soon as you get the clutch fixed, something else will go. Stupid cars.
09-20-2014, 09:50 AM #33
09-22-2014, 10:04 AM #34
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