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power window fix

This is a discussion on power window fix within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Has anyone tried the power window fix from autotrix. I definitely wouldn't mind fixing mine....

  1. #1
    Rice Hungry GottaHaveLS1's Avatar
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    power window fix

    Has anyone tried the power window fix from autotrix. I definitely wouldn't mind fixing mine.
    1999 Trans Am M6
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    Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT

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    Sponsor autotrix's Avatar
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    Our company is new to the market, and still building clientel. I would be happy to see someone on this board to have purchased and installed one already!
    We started on ls1tech.com and have recently become a member here on ls1.com!
    We are just now getting feedback from installs purchased by people on other boards, here is one at the bottom of this tread
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...38#post5948938
    All positive reply's and positive outcomes. We have more many creature feature and safety items yet to release to the market for the f-body.

    Got passenger window problems?
    http://www.autotrix.net
    **Window Express Down Modules now availible**
    http://www.autotrix.net/products.html

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    Member 02WS6dream's Avatar
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    just checked out the site...why is it a 'pass side' only fix?? Is one side different from the other? I've replaced my driver window motor recently and my pass. side still rolls up faster than it does. Just wondering if the pass. side is the only problem side?

    EDIT: Just read more on this and understand better now! Never mind this...
    Last edited by 02WS6dream; 12-04-2006 at 08:34 PM.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Any chance you can give us some hints on products you guys are developing and should be hitting the market soon?

    I realized you guys are located in Tulsa, where is your business located at, its good to see a local sponsor to me here on the forums
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    Sponsor autotrix's Avatar
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    We are open for suggestions on products, but want that element of surprise with our new products! They are interesting, I will say that.

    We do not have a retail store front for this perticular business in Tulsa, but maybe someday.

    I am surprised to hear your passenger side works as well as it does! Yes, it only fixes the passenger side. The drivers side already has its own battery feed circuit.

    So, if you were to roll up both windows at the same, your passenger side would beat the drivers side, and roll all the way up?

  6. #6
    Rice Hungry GottaHaveLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by autotrix View Post
    We are open for suggestions on products, but want that element of surprise with our new products! They are interesting, I will say that.

    We do not have a retail store front for this perticular business in Tulsa, but maybe someday.

    I am surprised to hear your passenger side works as well as it does! Yes, it only fixes the passenger side. The drivers side already has its own battery feed circuit.

    So, if you were to roll up both windows at the same, your passenger side would beat the drivers side, and roll all the way up?
    Haha, yea i always have to push mine up with my hand.

  7. #7
    Sponsor autotrix's Avatar
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    Yup, I used to have the passenger roll their window up with the door open, but that didnt always work either. I hated getting the window all fingerprinted in order to have it roll all the way up.

  8. #8
    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by autotrix View Post
    We are open for suggestions on products, but want that element of surprise with our new products! They are interesting, I will say that.

    We do not have a retail store front for this perticular business in Tulsa, but maybe someday.

    I am surprised to hear your passenger side works as well as it does! Yes, it only fixes the passenger side. The drivers side already has its own battery feed circuit.

    So, if you were to roll up both windows at the same, your passenger side would beat the drivers side, and roll all the way up?
    I have a suggestion..

    Anyway you can cut off whatever electric feed that goes to the pop up headlights when one locks the car electronically? As you know, the pop up lights are horrible and eventually require replacement of the whole thing or the gears.

    Ive always wondered WHY the headlights pop up when you lock the doors. What the FUCK do lights have to do with locks? I would be just fine and dandy if I hit my lock button and NO lights flashed.

  9. #9
    *lick* 99_natural_beauty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKIRA View Post
    Ive always wondered WHY the headlights pop up when you lock the doors. What the FUCK do lights have to do with locks? I would be just fine and dandy if I hit my lock button and NO lights flashed.
    My headlights come on, but the only time they actually popped up when the doors were locked/unlocked was when the headlight gear was stripped. Do yours pop up every time you lock the doors?

    In any case, you can change it to where your lights don't come on when the system is armed/disarmed - the procedure is in your owner's manual (assuming you have it).

  10. #10
    Member 02WS6dream's Avatar
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    ok... Like the edit says i understand the problem better now than i did at first...but still not very well. after reading this i went outside to test this out. The driver side barely beats the pass. side going down...but coming up the driver side slows toward the top and the pass side doesn't seem to and beats the driver side. the driver side is the new motor, not the pass side. What exactly makes the pass side go slower? If this fix gives the pass side a direct battery feed as well as the driver side; wouldn't they both be better off? The driver side would operate as if the pass side wasn't there and vise versa? Seems like they should both slow down when used together in the original config. not just one. someone make sense of this for me please...
    Last edited by 02WS6dream; 12-06-2006 at 04:20 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 02WS6dream View Post
    ok... Like the edit says i understand the problem better now than i did at first...but still not very well. after reading this i went outside to test this out. The driver side barely beats the pass. side going down...but coming up the driver side slows toward the top and the pass side doesn't seem to and beats the driver side. the driver side is the new motor, not the pass side.
    This sounds like A. The new motor is kinda crappy and once it heats up and the resistance increases it does not have enough windings in the motor to keep the push up. B. Your tracks and or something like guides in the door should be greased and it just slows down because it gets hard to move the window at the top.

    Quote Originally Posted by 02WS6dream View Post
    What exactly makes the pass side go slower? If this fix gives the pass side a direct battery feed as well as the driver side; wouldn't they both be better off? The driver side would operate as if the pass side wasn't there and vise versa? Seems like they should both slow down when used together in the original config. not just one. someone make sense of this for me please...
    The driver side from the factory should function just fine when it is the only window being operated, the only time it will be effected by the way it is powered is if you are rolling both windows up or down at the same time.

    The passenger window however has power taken from the battery to the driver side door then back across the car to the passenger side, so no matter what it is under powered and drastically underpowered if they are both being rolled up or down at the same time.

    Installing the kit will ensure the passenger window has proper power at all times and it will ensure the driver side window has proper power when both windows are operated at the same time.

    Hope this clears it up for you. Don't worry about asking for more detail we will do our best to help clarify the setup for you if it still does not make sense.

  12. #12
    Member 02WS6dream's Avatar
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    thank you! so grease the scissor like mechanism in the door right?? Sorry to sound ignorant...don't know why that was so hard to get my head around...maybe its the beer... This explanation makes sense to me-thanks again! I will say that i question how underpowered the pass side is when used alone. So there is just a longer path, but in this application what difference does that make? Would there be a measureable difference in resistance between the wire leading to the driver side and the wire with additional length leading to the pass side?

  13. #13
    Member 02WS6dream's Avatar
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    If they were wired in series then they would split voltage when both operated, but they must be in parellel for you to be able to use the pass switch without using the driver switch. So the power loss must come from an under-guaged (i mean too small) wire suppying the power to the motor via the driver side. Works fine with just driver's side, but as current increases resistance exponentially increases, and so when current is pulled to operate both motors resistance is much higher. So your fix works because you supply another route or effectively more wire, but wouldn't just replacing the original wire with a lower guage (thicker) wire also work? I mean, I don't know everything just very interested in electronics and have lots of questions...

  14. #14
    Member 02WS6dream's Avatar
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    08 Mustang GT/CS Blue
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    Still thinking.... There are many other systems in the car powered this way.. My stereo system for example since i did it and won't be guessing... I have three amps, but did not run three separate power lines to each from the battery. That isn't necessary. There is 1 large (4 guage) wire run from the battery to the system, where it meets a capacitor and then is distributed to three 8 guage lines running to each individual amp. If my main 4 guage wire were too small any of the three amps would suffer under heavy current draw. Not any particular one as is suggested that only the pass side motor is affected or is affected the most. I could fix this as you have by running 2 more wires to the battery; but why not just run one source wire large enough to handle the current draw? This seems kinda rediculous anyway...i mean you can buy window motors at autozone or any other parts store with a lifetime warranty for $55 without modifying your electrical system at all. The stock ones are going to fail, you will have to buy new ones anyway.

  15. #15
    Sponsor autotrix's Avatar
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    You have to compare apples to apples - keyword; "capacitor!"
    I think you have got it all figured out for yourself.
    Last edited by autotrix; 12-06-2006 at 10:00 PM.

  16. #16
    Master Mechanic Jims455's Avatar
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    I just got my Autotrix window kit today....but no instructions?

    I copied this off LS1:
    "Our instructions are a big part of the value of our kit. We are limiting access to them to customers who have purchased the kit. We may find this to be something we will change"

    Am I missing something here? ?

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    Yes you are

    The packing list that came with the kit has a link highlighted in orange at the bottom. Also we send out an email with every order with the link to the instructions. PM AutoTrix with your email that you paid with and we will get you your link.

  18. #18
    Master Mechanic Jims455's Avatar
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    thanks for the help Gnome man. I know, I'm a Dumb a$$ for not reading the PL all the way through..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jims455 View Post
    thanks for the help Gnome man. I know, I'm a Dumb a$$ for not reading the PL all the way through..
    No your not dumb. We already found out that people might miss it and that is why we highlight it. We are going to change the packaging a little so it is more obvious. Sorry about the confusion.


    Slow Passenger Window - Want Passenger Express Down - Tired of Replacing DayTime Running Light Bulbs

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    ttt...

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