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Plug and Wire Change

This is a discussion on Plug and Wire Change within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So Im changing my wires at 67k on my 01 Z28 and was wondering if there is anything I need ...

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    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Plug and Wire Change

    So Im changing my wires at 67k on my 01 Z28 and was wondering if there is anything I need to know except just physically changing the wires and plugs. I know installing the plugs your supposed to go finger tight and turn 1/4 the way w a socket but is there any other pointers you guys can give me?? Like anything to put on the thread of the plug or installation of the wires??

    Im going with the MSD wires and NGK iridium Tr55's
    01 m6 z28 - lid / lt headers / 3' ory w no cats / flowmaster catback w 3' dmh e-cutout / nelson pcm tune

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    Access to the plugs is much easier if you remove the coil packs. I also recommend popping the pins up on the cowl seal with a flat blade screwdriver as they will shred your hands. Before removing the plugs, I always use an air gun to blow any accumulated crap out of the area where the plugs seat in the heads. Plug number 8 is sometimes easier to get at from beneath the vehicle. Also, a 1-1/2" extension is about perfect for the plugs with limited access.

    Use a very light coat of anti-sieze on the threads and they should be torqued to 11 ft.lbs. On our car, I could not get a torque wrench on a few of the plugs, so I had to estimate. When you install the wires you should hear one click on the plugs and two clicks on the coil packs. Take your time and do not get impatient -- plug changes can be a bit trying on these cars.

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    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Access to the plugs is much easier if you remove the coil packs. I also recommend popping the pins up on the cowl seal with a flat blade screwdriver as they will shred your hands. Before removing the plugs, I always use an air gun to blow any accumulated crap out of the area where the plugs seat in the heads. Plug number 8 is sometimes easier to get at from beneath the vehicle. Also, a 1-1/2" extension is about perfect for the plugs with limited access.

    Use a very light coat of anti-sieze on the threads and they should be torqued to 11 ft.lbs. On our car, I could not get a torque wrench on a few of the plugs, so I had to estimate. When you install the wires you should hear one click on the plugs and two clicks on the coil packs. Take your time and do not get impatient -- plug changes can be a bit trying on these cars.
    Okay thanks a bunch man, btw how hard is it to take off the coil packs, and not to sound stupid but what exactly are the cowl seals?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raoul-Duke View Post
    Okay thanks a bunch man, btw how hard is it to take off the coil packs, and not to sound stupid but what exactly are the cowl seals?
    If your car is '99 up, the coil packs each have one harness connection in the center and a few bolts that hold them to the rocker covers. The worst one to get at is the passenger side rearmost bolt. Some guys actually leave that one out when they re-install the coils. I think the '98s are individually mounted, rather than on a bracket. It's not bad at all and gives you a lot more space to work in for the plug change.

    The cowl seal is the rubber strip that seals the back of your hood to the body. It runs across the width of the cowl and is held in place by pointy little pins.

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    HUNTER S. THOMPSON FAN Raoul-Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    If your car is '99 up, the coil packs each have one harness connection in the center and a few bolts that hold them to the rocker covers. The worst one to get at is the passenger side rearmost bolt. Some guys actually leave that one out when they re-install the coils. I think the '98s are individually mounted, rather than on a bracket. It's not bad at all and gives you a lot more space to work in for the plug change.

    The cowl seal is the rubber strip that seals the back of your hood to the body. It runs across the width of the cowl and is held in place by pointy little pins.
    ok I got ya man, thanks again. This shouldnt be that much of a pain in the ass should it? lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raoul-Duke View Post
    ok I got ya man, thanks again. This shouldnt be that much of a pain in the ass should it? lol

    I actually didn't think it was too bad, but some tend to struggle with plug changes. No question, space is tight and it is a bit of a challenge.

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    It's not that bad unless you have arms like Popeye.

    I was going to remove my coil packs, but the last rail bolt was being such a PITA to get to I said the hell with it and left them on. I did fine with them there.

    The #8 plug looks like a bitch from the top, and it is, but it's really easy to do the plug and wire from underneath. I actually had a harder time with #6 IIRC.


    You also don't need alot of extensions and u-joints, all I used was a .75" & a 3" extension on my 3/8 drive ratchet. The drivers side is cake, although that .75" extension will come in handy there. The pass side, I ended up kneeling on the battery and rad support, bracing myself with my right hand on the intake, and used my left hand to pull straight up on the ratchet.

    Oh, and make sure the car is cold while doing this, you don't want to strip the aluminum heads if it's hot. Plus it's much easier on your arms. Prepare to scratch them up pretty good though.

    And no, btw, I didn't re-use the factory heat shield on the plug boots.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by StuntmanMike; 07-08-2010 at 03:30 PM.

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    Junior Member beirutvet83's Avatar
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    GREAT INFO!!! I'm also planning on changing plugs. YES, #8 looks like a nightmare from the top.

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    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuntmanMike View Post
    It's not that bad unless you have arms like Popeye.
    So true!

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    read through Sarge's write up. His was on a GTO but a lot of the basics still apply:

    How to change spark plugs

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    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    I just did the plugs on my 02 WS6. Driver side super easy as I am sure everyone knows, 6&8 not so easy.

    6 was the hardest, I found that by removing the the AIR tube (super easy) and removing the lower stud for the 6 coil pack that opened thing up, aside from the AC lines being in the way.

    As for #8, my brother did that one from below with no issues.

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    Member dav-02ws6-m6's Avatar
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    2002 trans am ws6

    when you start doing the plugs take your time don't rush it other wise is going to became a bet stressing. The first time that i did the plugs on my car it took me close to 2 hours. Now if I do them again it takes me like 25 minutes with out removing the coil packs..

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