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Please help, im lost

This is a discussion on Please help, im lost within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; this is the whole rundown step-by-step. After cam install the car would barely idle and die often as expected Everything ...

  1. #1
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    Please help, im lost

    this is the whole rundown step-by-step.

    After cam install the car would barely idle and die often as expected

    Everything was normal for two days then on day two the car died when I let off the gass. When I threw it in neutral and tried to restart it it popped my 175 amp fuse thats back by the battery.

    At first I assumed that maybe the cable I ran from rear to front for the battery relocation had grounded out. I disconnected that wire and put the battery back under the hood and to rule that out. Popped another fuse.

    checked all wires from battery to starter to fuse boxes remove all insulation and found nothing

    Pulled starter and saw nose cone was broken off and sitting in bellhousing. Starter tested out perfectly at O'reilly auto.

    Put starter back in with 200 amp fuse and it started to turn over then popped that


    put socket on crank pulley and I can make full rotations but its clearly harder in some spots. Unfortunitly I cant recall what it felt like before.

    SOMEONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE AND PLEASE TELL ME ITS NOT CATASTROPHIC

  2. #2
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    If you did'nt have it tuned after the cam install, it could have back fired and shattered the nose while you were likely cranking the crap,
    out of it to get it to start..imho

    Sometimes in the instance of a backfire whether through the exhaust or the intake, the engine can slightly
    turn backwards while the starter is still engaged. This can and sometimes will shatter the nose housing of starters..

    It can also happen if the engine gets caught on the compression stroke..
    Over heated valves from not having a tune/poor tune can ignite any fuel that may still be present in the bore..
    Sometimes causing an inadvertant reverse rotation as well..
    This, can shatter a starter housing if the starter drive is still engaged to the flywheel..

    You need a new starter and a serious professional tune.. just my .02
    Last edited by Smittro; 07-03-2011 at 03:03 AM.

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    thanks I really appreciate the info, so even if the starter has a perfect benchtest it still can simulate conditions of a short?

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2NDSLPSS View Post
    thanks I really appreciate the info, so even if the starter has a perfect benchtest it still can simulate conditions of a short?
    I am saying it could'nt have bench tested "perfect" without the nose of the starter..

    There is a bushing that supports the shaft for the starter drive in the nose housing. Unless I am missing something here,
    someone @ the place you took it to does'nt know how to properly test a starter..
    Just because it runs/spins does'nt mean it's any good..

    Here:
    Last edited by Smittro; 07-03-2011 at 07:37 AM.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    I'm curious about the cam specs & if the valve springs were upgraded too. Also, what rocker arms ? Depending on this info, we can diagnose it better.

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    cam is a Tsp 233/239 595/603 113, springs are prc dual valvesprings, stock rockers.

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    There's a chance the push rods are to long. When you turn the motor over by hand, were the spark plugs pulled ?

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    Yes sparkplugs were installed. Car ran well for two days, john @ texas speed told me thats the length I need and kind of made it sound like the 7.400 pushrods are the standard for my case. Could I have done a serious damage if they are too long?

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Yes, but lets hope not. I'd pull the plugs and turn it over by hand to see if it turns smoothly. Maybe pull the valve covers and check the valve train. Something might have strained the starter...
    If everything seems OK, I'd throw another starter in it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bills98ta View Post
    Yes, but lets hope not. I'd pull the plugs and turn it over by hand to see if it turns smoothly. Maybe pull the valve covers and check the valve train. Something might have strained the starter...
    If everything seems OK, I'd throw another starter in it.
    I agree. If there is, god forbid, any damage, hopefully it will be valvetrain related. Heads can be repaired/replaced easier/cheaper than bottom end work which is $$$$.

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    Starter will be coming on payday and everything will be inspected this weekend but i was wondering . . . . .you guys seem knowledgable enough to explain something to me that i dont get.

    How can this same setup provide enough ptv clearance on one ls1 car but not the next? Are the tolerances that sloppy when these engines are being produced. The 233/239 595/603 cam i have is slightly smaller than the MS3 where the same size pushrods still provide enough ptv.

    Could this be something ive done wrong? I did cam, prc dual springs, ls6 timing chain, ported ls6 oil pump, and chromoly pushrods. Use high temp threadlocker, made sure oil pump pick o ring was seated, triple checked timing marks after several revolutions( with no binding ) and took my time. . . .

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    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    Good Point... It should all be good, But... Something might have happened, like a keeper popped out, lifter failure, lost your wedding ring, during the assembly, ect... LOL...
    I'd just want to make sure... Could even need some start up timing pulled ( tune ) so it doesn't buck the starter...

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    LOL. OK, i got ya. Well i will get into it and repost to let u guys know what i find. Thanks again. I really appreciate it.

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    the issue was definitely just the starter itself. popped a new fuse and starter in and it started right up.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Good to hear. Enjoy your car.

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    get a tune though before you do serious damage to the car.......

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    I will only be putting around to work every here and there, about 2 miles away till she gets strapped to the dyno on the 1st

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    it won't take long to foul out those O2's and possibly spark plugs running that cam un-tuned so you may want to plan on replacing those before getting a tune.

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    On that thought. . . I may just keep her in the garage and save the 150-200$ that the new iridiums and O2 sensors will probably run me. good point, thanks!

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