PCV Valve Recommendation / Housing Modification

[matthewaqui]

If your PCV Housing deteriorated from the heat like mine, you can pick up a couple parts from Home Depot to make a new, tighter fitting housing like what I did. The housing is not available at parts store. I don't even know if GM has them in stock.

Other than replacing your housing, it is suggested by GM that you replace the valve with an OPEN ORIFICE type. The Open valve with 0.100 hole can be purchased at Autozone. Parts guy at Autozone will not be able to cross reference for you.

OEM Valve is Fram FV391 or ACDelco #CV948C

GM Suggested GM#12572717 also known as AC Delco #12572717 my cross reference for Lube Finer found at Autozone PC339

Look at the image carefully, the brass cuplink will screw super tightly into the 1/2 inch hose where it will butt up with the larger end of the valve. The one thing I didn't purchase was the 3/8 hose..... thus I splitted the original out hose as you can see from the final assembly image. Use sharp razor blade for the ground wire slit in hose (maybe someone can chime in why a ground wire is needed, can air friction cause an electrical spark as it passes through?).

Write if you need any tips or specs. on the parts.

Good day,
Matt
P.S. This modification of the valve gain a noticeable 1/2 horse hahahaha!!!

[JoshieDoom]

Ingenious

[SandmanWs7]

Did the new PCV valve fix your cars problem?

[matthewaqui]

Hey, Looking at your Avatar of a beanie hat I did reconized you. As I see it, with are dated Fbodies, too many little things can affect the performance. Since purchasing the vehicle, I have gone through and repair and replaced quite a few parts.

The vehicle used to have hesitation, back fire dead acceleration, etc., once the engine was warm. After replacing the right cat, PCV Valve, and Housing, the performance is better. You have to remember, the fixed inlet hole in the new-designated PCV valve is steady with the inflow unlike the old with a spring mechanism. The spring mechanism letting the air in can get sticky from the gunk through time and not spring back to let air passage.

The new valve is hollow inside and can be easily clean with gasoline to remove the sticky residue and be reused for the life of the vehicle.

My housing modification is a clean inlet where the big end of the valve does not butt against the plastic housing, for it is a clean passage to the brass coupling. This is just a better design.

Either way, we do what is necessary not to incur problems with the vehicles.

Matt

Did the new PCV valve fix your cars problem?

[matthewaqui]

Not too shabby huh, especially when you can't get the part on hand anywhere. The biggest problem was figuring out a way to contain that large side of the valve for it's not really a pipe fitting where I can tie to the intake hose.

Thanks for the correspondant at doing this repair. It was helpful to have your aversary.......

Good day,
Matthew

Ingenious

[TedsB4Csled]

I posted this somewhere else but check this out: http://tteedd.hostsnake.com/pvc.html

[TedsB4Csled]

Try this: http://tteedd.hostsnake.com/pvc.html
Didn't see mpg improvement but impressed with everything else.

[bigdaddy9911]

Hey Matt, I was wondering if you remembered the part# for the Watts brass cuplink,I zoomed in on pic but couldn't make out the # , I figured it would save me a little time in the store if you did, gonna do a full tune up tomorrow. Thanks, Kevin

[Mr. Luos]

PCV should not have any effect on performance.

Unless you have a burnt up piston and are passing that much oil through the system.

[JoshieDoom]

I bought one today

[richard head]

Hey Matt, I was wondering if you remembered the part# for the Watts brass cuplink,I zoomed in on pic but couldn't make out the # , I figured it would save me a little time in the store if you did, gonna do a full tune up tomorrow. Thanks, Kevin

just go looking for a 3/4" male thread by male barbed hose adapter brass fitting. Home Depot, Autozone, any irrigation parts store... They're very easy to find. Just take the PCV in with you and make sure they're about the same diameter. I'd also recommend clamping the PCV and the hose adapter separately to avoid either of them coming loose or perhaps being missed by the clamp. Just use 2 hose clamps.

[HitManLs1]

Nice write up

[steve1234]

sounds very interesting.....

[godless-phoenix]

"(maybe someone can chime in why a ground wire is needed, can air friction cause an electrical spark as it passes through?)."

its not a "ground wire", its a heat sink to help heat the engine up quicker, so its pretty much useless and you dont really need it and no...air friction will not cause an electrical spark as it passes through the pvc valve... this is a great idea though, wayyy better than buying a whole new pvc set up just for just the rubber housing...

[wileyCoyote]

guys, i know some of you are thinking of a fix for just the boot holding the PCV valve... but, if yours was like mine, you might want to consider replacing the whole assembly. replacing just the valve and valve boot would not have fixed the problem hidden farther back...

this was the shape mine was in.. the rubber connector at the bend in the tube located at the back of the engine, under the cowl, was "goo-like" and pulled apart easily as i was removing the old assembly.. you can also see that the ID of the boot holding the PCV valve was shot as well.. The PCV valve does rattle when I shake it so, i guess the valve was still functional?

Old PCV valve assemply (tubing, fittings, and valve):


Looking downstream into the boot holding the PCV valve:


Looking upstream into "goo'd up" connector located at rear of engine (broken off):

[blue02Z]

I dont even have my lil ground thingy hooked up to it anymore. Why did gm put it in there anyway??

[Cutlass]

Its a heat sink to the PCV to keep it from icing up in cold weather.

[som ss 2001]

guys, i know some of you are thinking of a fix for just the boot holding the PCV valve... but, if yours was like mine, you might want to consider replacing the whole assembly. replacing just the valve and valve boot would not have fixed the problem hidden farther back...

this was the shape mine was in.. the rubber connector at the bend in the tube located at the back of the engine, under the cowl, was "goo-like" and pulled apart easily as i was removing the old assembly.. you can also see that the ID of the boot holding the PCV valve was shot as well.. The PCV valve does rattle when I shake it so, i guess the valve was still functional?

Old PCV valve assemply (tubing, fittings, and valve):


Looking downstream into the boot holding the PCV valve:


Looking upstream into "goo'd up" connector located at rear of engine (broken off):

Does anyone know where i can get the assembly for a good price. The dealship by me wanted 130.00 for it.

[blue02Z]

Its a heat sink to the PCV to keep it from icing up in cold weather.

thanks Cutlass! i guess i really dont need it down here, prolly why i never saw a difference

Does anyone know where i can get the assembly for a good price. The dealship by me wanted 130.00 for it.

check gmpartsdirect.com

[SMWS6TA]

PART II to this thread. For in case you have an issue with the portion of the hose that breaks behind the Intake Manifold where it splits like in post 15.

In the pics below I used a T fitting and a L fitting for vacuum lines that I joined together and made what you see in the pics below. It works, may look Fugly but I assure you it does work. I have used it for the last 5 months.

IMHO the money you would put towards a new PVC hose could be best spent in getting you the LS6 Valley tray and put a good chuck towards a decent catch can and just flat out eliminate this issue.