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PCV Grommet-Catch Can-Cat Conver GM Replacement

This is a discussion on PCV Grommet-Catch Can-Cat Conver GM Replacement within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; First off, I like to thank Josh for pointing out the PO430 of bad Passenger Catalytic. I had 120,700 on ...

  1. #1
    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Angry PCV Grommet-Catch Can-Cat Conver GM Replacement

    First off, I like to thank Josh for pointing out the PO430 of bad Passenger Catalytic.

    I had 120,700 on my 2000 TA and purchased the vehicle at 117,000 last year. GM honored the replacement of the convertors, though stated at 120,000 or 8 years. In doing so, the tech noted:

    Right Cat Internal failure setting code PO430 diagnosed and replaced right Cat. Cat came in without rear 0/2 sensor being drilled and tapped (OLH 0.5). Reinstalled rear 0/2 sensor, cleared codes and retested, had code PO135 set for left Front 0/2 sensor, and trans mount broken, declined further repairs.

    Do you know what the tech meant by "without rear 0/2 sensor being drilled and tapped"? Also, I briefly looked but couldn't tell about the Transmission mount... Where is the mount located and how can it be broken? Do you think I can replace that myself.


    Okay, someone on this board also mentioned that I check the PCV valve.... so I purchased one. After picking up the vehicle from GM for the cats, pulled the PCV valve and was about to replace with a new one. Take a look at this image for no one on here has mentioned it as of yet.





    Inspecting the grommet/hose valve housing or the connector or what you call it, looked really bad. As you can see, the heat internally melt or deteriorated the inside of the hose housing, where the plastic deteoriation enters the valve and re-enter the intake manifold. Have you had the same experience and what have you done about it? The entry of the valve looked pretty bad as you can see. I held back from inserting a new Valve into the bad housing. They don't carry the housing at the auto parts store.

    Those who installed this Catch can:



    Are you running the PCV valve inline with the can or did you cut the valve out?

    I went to the auto store to find any other valves or modification I can do to eliminate the housing, but was out of luck.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated to get my TA back on the road again.

    Matthew

  2. #2
    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matthewaqui View Post
    .. .. .. Also, I briefly looked but couldn't tell about the Transmission mount... Where is the mount located and how can it be broken? Do you think I can replace that myself? .. .. ..

    they break commonly...
    especially M6 cars... when you stomp on it, the shifter may "raise up" in the console
    (I see your silver car is auto, but i can't see enuff of the red one)
    which cars is down??

    the crossmember under the tranny, has a single bolt coming down thru it, with a nut on it. remove the nut, jack up the tranny, and there are 2 bolts holding the mount to the tranny housing... installation is the reverse of removal

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Smile

    The Silver 2000 has the bad mount. Whoever owned it before me must have abused the hell out of it then. I had an 89 Firebird that I drove hard like that with the same problem, thus being very cautious on the current TAs that I own. I go very easy with these two vehicle just to make sure it doesn't happen.

    Thank you for removal instructions and I'll get on it upon purchasing a mount.

    Matthew

    Quote Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT View Post
    they break commonly...
    especially M6 cars... when you stomp on it, the shifter may "raise up" in the console
    (I see your silver car is auto, but i can't see enuff of the red one)
    which cars is down??

    the crossmember under the tranny, has a single bolt coming down thru it, with a nut on it. remove the nut, jack up the tranny, and there are 2 bolts holding the mount to the tranny housing... installation is the reverse of removal

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    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...3ba0cdf0b3306d

    Read that for some more info. if you already havent.. as for the housing gmpartsdirect might have them. Id still use it as long as it isnt about to cruble to pieces.

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    JEGS Air Oil Separator

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...3ba0cdf0b3306d

    Read that for some more info. if you already havent.. as for the housing gmpartsdirect might have them. Id still use it as long as it isnt about to cruble to pieces.
    Thanks Doom.. they don't have any PCV Tube Housing... the catch can be purchased on Ebay for $40 bucks, compared to the higher price of these sellers.

    Some also suggested:



    Looks like I have to reinstalled that messed up housing.

    Matt

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    That should work well also. Ive got two of those on my compressor
    Ill keep a look out for those housings. If I see one ill steer you in the right direction.

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Wink The Proper PCV Vale------------------

    Thanks man! Maybe it is much cheaper to pick up one of those air catcher at a tool center and modify it for the vehicle. I have a compressor but don't use one of those catcher.

    Been searching for more than an hour and researching this valve thing! No where can a housing be found that's brand new. I think I'll get the specify valve below and stop by Home Depot to pickup a combination hoses and build myself a new housing as soon as possible. That screwed up housing gives me the creeps since the engine has been idling like crap before the Cat was replaced. Just don't want to deal with more problems. Can't life be just happy driving a working TA with no performance setbacks? I'm surprised that no one in this forum have mentioned a screwed up valve housing.

    For those who will be replacing there valves, here is the best designated one to replace with.

    PCV Valve OEM is either Fram FV391 or AC Delco #CV948C but has been reinstated by GM that we use either GM# 12572717 or AC Delco# 12572717. The insisted latter valve has a .10 drilled inlet without an inner tension spring where the designated compression inbound pressure is set.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    That should work well also. Ive got two of those on my compressor
    Ill keep a look out for those housings. If I see one ill steer you in the right direction.

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    My dad was a manager at a gm dealer and hes good friends with the parts guy. Ill see if they can get them.

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    This is my set up. oil consumption virtually stopped after the conversion.



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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing buddy!

    Nice deal there, Thanks for sharing your clean setup. The oil catcher that you have, how much oil does it catch and how often do you empty it out?

    Explain this to me if you know.... everyone mentions oil consumptions is highly reduced with the catcher, but I don't see how if it is caught in there. What brings about the reduction?

    My PCV housing mentioned in this thread went to hell from heat where the Valve and inlet tube met. I have came up with a replacement modification and will post the pics soon after the installation today. You may want to check it out if you ever need to replace that housing.

    By the way, I found a catcher today for $29 bucks at a tool retailer..... Haven't bought it yet.

    Matthew
    Quote Originally Posted by maxwax View Post
    This is my set up. oil consumption virtually stopped after the conversion.
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Click for full size

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Don't worry about buddy, I have came up with a mod. I have came up with a replacement modification and will post the pics soon after the installation today. You may want to check it out if you ever need to replace that housing.

    Thanks man,
    Matthew
    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    My dad was a manager at a gm dealer and hes good friends with the parts guy. Ill see if they can get them.

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    Ive got the 98 style. After 150xxx I replaced it last week. Had to take the foam off of it for the first time. Still looks new

    "Explain this to me if you know.... everyone mentions oil consumptions is highly reduced with the catcher, but I don't see how if it is caught in there. What brings about the reduction?"

    Instead of being burned in the chamber and getting your intake and everything carbon fouled it pools up in the catcher and you can dump it out.. so technically its not "burning " oil

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    F BODYS RULE maxwax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matthewaqui View Post
    Nice deal there, Thanks for sharing your clean setup. The oil catcher that you have, how much oil does it catch and how often do you empty it out?

    Explain this to me if you know.... everyone mentions oil consumptions is highly reduced with the catcher, but I don't see how if it is caught in there. What brings about the reduction?

    My PCV housing mentioned in this thread went to hell from heat where the Valve and inlet tube met. I have came up with a replacement modification and will post the pics soon after the installation today. You may want to check it out if you ever need to replace that housing.

    By the way, I found a catcher today for $29 bucks at a tool retailer..... Haven't bought it yet.

    Matthew
    the oil is indeed caught in the can, but none is burned through the intake, and what you do catch can be poured back in the engine if you so desire.
    I went from 1qt between oil changes to 1/4 qt between changes.

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Question Reusing poor fumes?

    Thanks for the explanation....... the can keeps the intake healthy as I see it. The throttle burning that unhealthy oil air will leave residue in the throttle?.

    You think if we disconnect the line and just catch it in a can and not run it back into throttle the vehicle will not have a problem with operation? I'm just questioning the necessity of running that bad pollution back into the engine.

    Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by maxwax View Post
    the oil is indeed caught in the can, but none is burned through the intake, and what you do catch can be poured back in the engine if you so desire.
    I went from 1qt between oil changes to 1/4 qt between changes.

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    The throttle pulls a vacuum on the line.. Otherwise the PCV system is useless. The catch can is just in the loops to catch the crap before it enters your intake system.. It mainly just pulls out the harmful stuff(moisture etc) but some oil goes along with it.. Hence the catch can

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Well Said.......

    That explains it well, when you mentioned the Vacuum suction. Thanks for the 411 on that.

    Matt
    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    The throttle pulls a vacuum on the line.. Otherwise the PCV system is useless. The catch can is just in the loops to catch the crap before it enters your intake system.. It mainly just pulls out the harmful stuff(moisture etc) but some oil goes along with it.. Hence the catch can

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    Instead of a catch can use a PVC jar. You don't have to use a glass jar, but it won't break if you do. I have one on my Camaro now. I didn't see any gas mileage improvements. I had it on another vehicle as well- better emissions, cleaner motor. Try it and then take a picture of the shock on your face when you see what almost recirculated through your motor. The copper BBs allow the sludge and H20 to condensate in the jar and collect while hydrocarbons are allowed to recirculate and burn. Gotta love copper BBs and moonshine jars Try it for yourself and then decide: http://tteedd.hostsnake.com/pvc.html

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    Member matthewaqui's Avatar
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    The Jar

    Thanks for the do it yourself PVC jar.... I order one of the air catcher just a couple days ago....... but will likely try this one for my other TA.

    How did you mount it to your engine? I can only imagine a large O-ring with a drilled hole and some screw....

    Thanks Buddy,
    Matthew

    Quote Originally Posted by TedsB4Csled View Post
    Instead of a catch can use a PVC jar. You don't have to use a glass jar, but it won't break if you do. I have one on my Camaro now. I didn't see any gas mileage improvements. I had it on another vehicle as well- better emissions, cleaner motor. Try it and then take a picture of the shock on your face when you see what almost recirculated through your motor. The copper BBs allow the sludge and H20 to condensate in the jar and collect while hydrocarbons are allowed to recirculate and burn. Gotta love copper BBs and moonshine jars Try it for yourself and then decide: http://tteedd.hostsnake.com/pvc.html

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    I mounted it further from the motor, up under the front of the wheel well. I'll send you one if you compare it to your catch can and post your results here. Build another one for someone else(pay it forward). E-mail me your address. I'll e-mail you pics of how you can mount it too. You'll notice the PCV pulls a lot more H20! You DON'T want that in the motor!

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    DON"T pour back oil from catch can into motor! You were kidding right???

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