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Patriot Gold to Comp 921

This is a discussion on Patriot Gold to Comp 921 within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; After having my car dynoed with new motor, they said that my valve springs weren't up to par after 4100 ...

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    Junior Member greenvilleTA's Avatar
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    Patriot Gold to Comp 921

    After having my car dynoed with new motor, they said that my valve springs weren't up to par after 4100 to 4200 RPM. These patriot gold springs came brand new on the Patriot stage 2 heads I bought new. They recommended I get the comp 921s and I was about to order just the springs, but was wondering...do I need to buy the kit or just the springs? Do the P2 heads come with the correct seats and everything to make the 921s just a drop-in?

    Has anyone else had a problem with the gold springs not performing, as even I was surprised how low my dyno numbers were? If anyone is interested, I'll scan and attach the dyno graph tha shows the dramtic fall at 4200 RPM each time.

    I;m only making like 420rwp/430rwtq on a built ls6 383 which I think is a bit low for my set up. Also, forgot to mention that outside my sig, I had to get some red top injectors, but aside from taking care of close to 100% duty cycle, not much power gain. I;m only making like 420rwp/430rwtq on a built ls6 383 which I think is a bit low for my set up. Also, forgot to mention that outside my sig, I had to get some red top injectors, but aside from taking care of close to 100% duty cycle, not much power gain. Again, I was pointed towards the valve springs.
    Last edited by greenvilleTA; 02-27-2008 at 04:56 PM. Reason: more information
    4" Stroker Crank/4340 H Beam Rods/Forged Pistons/File to fit Plasma Moly Rings/Patriot S2 LS6 heads/Harland Sharp rockers/SLP Lid/Smooth Bellowes/Comp 232/234 595/598 112 lsa/chrome-moly push rods/LS1 Edit/LS6 intake/Spec3 clutch/Fidenza aluminum flywheel/4.10s/MAC mid-lengths/MAC ORY/SLP catback

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I run Patriot Dual Golds on a 248/254 629/622 113.
    Texas Speed 402ci
    No problem with float.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I've never heard anything bad about patriot golds myself.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I've never heard anything bad about patriot golds myself.
    Brittle when cold. But that is it.
    Warm oil before getting into the higher RPM's.

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    Junior Member greenvilleTA's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. So do these numbers seem low to you for my set up? Should I look elsewhere for the performance lost? I just took the shop's advice as gospel as LG Motorsports (the shop) has a good reputation that I know of.

    Any advice is appreciated.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    What sized cam?
    What heads?

    The numbers could be spot on...depends of the build.

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    Junior Member greenvilleTA's Avatar
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    The block was a virgin 2006 LSX block with an Eagle 383 stroker kit. Heads are Patriot Stage 2 (https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=37&page=1). Everything is else is in my signature, except the 36# injectors, and all is brand new. I didn't go bigger on te cam because I wasn't sure on clearance when I was building, but after checking I had plenty, so now with the low numbers, I'm thinking of a Magic Stick 239/242 ...

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Some of it might be the cam.
    Although I would think it would be a touch higher.
    LS6 intake is eating a little power as well. The larger motor would like more air in.

    That cam is an average cam for the 346ci....so basicly it is a small cam for the 383ci.
    I bet she still pulls like mad from anywhere in the powerband though.

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    Junior Member greenvilleTA's Avatar
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    She does pull pretty hard for the most part, but I believe most of the powerband should be right at or above 4200 RPM which is where it drops off pretty hard on the graph. You think the magic stick cam (237/242, .603"/.609") would be decent, or something a bit bigger like a Trex? Do you think an LSX intake would be muh better? Nothing has been milled, but I'm always worried about going to big due to clearance issues...probably just inexperience and paranoia.

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    It drops off at 4200??

    Something isn't right for sure.
    Does it drop off like that on the street?

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    Junior Member greenvilleTA's Avatar
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    No noticeable drop on the street...pulls pretty hard; however, it pulls much harder below 42-4500 RPM. The power doesn't drop completely off, but it goes down more quickly than most of I've seen where the powerband is just tapering off. That's why I leaned with the shop thinking it might be valve-float. If it was lack of air or cam, seems like the curve would be a lot more even than just a great hard start, then a discerning drop with out a taper to speak of.

    Another thing, all the power (420rwp/430rwtq) is made before 4300, which also leads me to believe valve-float since most don't make that power that far under the curve...that I know of anyways. I really need to scan the graph to show you, but I'm at work now and I left it at home. I'll try to scan and attacht tonight.
    Last edited by greenvilleTA; 02-28-2008 at 01:22 PM. Reason: addtional information

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    Another possibility could be your lifters. You may have got a bad set that are bleeding off in the higher RPM's. If it were me, I'd start with the springs though. Make sure that you fuel pressure stays up during the revs.....

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    Junior Member greenvilleTA's Avatar
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    Hopefully not the lifters...my engine is actually pretty quiet. It used to be like a sewing machine with my last engine and a TR230 cam. This engine is very quiet in the engine bay...special order length pushrods (used a length checker to get it right) and comp r-series lifters suppsedly good to 9K RPM or something like that. I tried to find my dyno chart but can't find it now, so I guess I'll just bite the bullet and buy some new spring.

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