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Thread: Parking Break Screaming
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05-23-2010, 09:29 AM #1
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- May 2007
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- Davenport, Iowa
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Bright Red- 1999 Trans Am Ws6
Parking Break Screaming
Stupid parking brake stayed on after I used it. Barley dragging...but still sucks ass. Anyone else have this problem? How do you unstick it anyways? Looks like just putting it in gear from now on. I have no interest in replacing cable which no doubt has rusted inside hence it sticking.
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05-23-2010, 09:33 AM #2
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Have you tried using WD40 or some slilicone spray on the cable underneath?
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05-23-2010, 09:54 AM #3
^^ Agreed. Pull the wheel for access and unhook your parking brake cable at the rear backing plate. Get out the WD-40, or whatever spray lubricant, and a pair of pliers. Have a friend pull your e-brake handle and when he releases it, you pull on your end with the pliers. Get it going back and forth as you lube it and it'll probably free up. Make sure you do both sides.
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05-26-2010, 04:45 PM #4
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- Davenport, Iowa
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Bright Red- 1999 Trans Am Ws6
So, I figured it was my parking brake because it was screeching while the car was in motion at all. And it occured when the car sat over night in parking garage with parking brake on. Well I jacked car up today(it's been sitting since I came home saturday) and found out only the driver side rear squeeled. I pulled wheel off and couldn't see parking brake cable very good to d/c it. So I pulled caliper and removed the rotor. Pads looked good, it was fully disengaged. Then the back side of the rotor caught the corner of my eye. Immidietly I pulled the caliper up for closer inspection. Yeah...pad was gone all the way past the plate into the rivets. Yikes. Other pad still had 1/16 of an inch of pad left on that caliper. Grr...gonna replace both rotors and all the pads in the back tommorrow. Could have ended nastily.
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05-26-2010, 05:34 PM #5
Make sure to clean and re-lube your pins with synthetic caliper grease.
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05-26-2010, 07:26 PM #6
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05-27-2010, 04:11 AM #7
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05-27-2010, 05:47 AM #8
There is also a cable greasing tool that can be baught @ motor cycle shops. It clamps to the end of the outer cable covering and has a grease fitting. You can then pump grease into the cable..
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05-27-2010, 05:51 AM #9
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05-27-2010, 05:56 AM #10
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05-27-2010, 12:42 PM #11
- Join Date
- May 2007
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- Davenport, Iowa
- Age
- 35
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Bright Red- 1999 Trans Am Ws6
What a pita! Rotors were like welded on. Took a torch, pb plaster, and a BFH to get them off. Replaced all the clips in each as well since they were shit. 142 bucks for pads and rotors. One pin was dry as the boot had cracked, so replaced that. Cleaned, and greased everything nicley. Works like a charm now. Hope the torque setting wasn't really that important. 74lbs for the bracket to frame bolts. And my bigger torque wrench wouldn't fit in there to get on it. So I just guessed. lulz.
I have a friend who worked for ford, doesn't any more. He said they had some speedy service they offered, forget wtf he called it. Drivethrough, pitstop, some catchy name like that. Anyways, for brake pad replacement all they did was take caliper off, pop new pads in, and call it good. No resurfacing or changing rotors. No taking guide pins out and making sure they are good. Nadda. 100 bucks for the service and they did it in five minutes.
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05-27-2010, 05:25 PM #12
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Phantom Black Metallic- 2004 GTO M6
Yah. That is what I like about these cars. If rotors are fine, remove caliper, replace pads and re-install caliper.
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05-27-2010, 06:31 PM #13
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