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overheating!!! help!!!

This is a discussion on overheating!!! help!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by blackcar I believe our cars hold more than 2 gallons stock plus which means yours may hold ...

  1. #21
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackcar View Post
    I believe our cars hold more than 2 gallons stock plus which means yours may hold more than stock.
    yea the parts store only sells one type of radiator for these cars now which is the Lt1 radiator, which is thicker and has an extra outlet, but will still work for ls1 cars.....some people prefer this radiator anyway....i know its something simple that i am overlooking...i vow to have this fixed tonight.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    It definitely takes more than 2 gallons -- that is only 8 quarts. You should have the heater on and the the temp selected to "Hot" to ensure circulation through the heater core. Not sure about our cars, but most have a valve that shuts off coolant flow unless the system is calling for heat.
    yea im gonna try this heater thing...im used to just pouring in the coolant and not havin to worry about it....

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    i know its something simple that i am overlooking
    AIR LOCK. Burp the system.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    AIR LOCK. Burp the system.
    how does he burps the system. I need to replace my water hoses but im afraid of running on the same situation.

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    Member TOMASINO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    I got a 99 trans am. I just replaced the radiator. Its a little thicker than the origional. It has an extra outlet at the bottom drivers side, which I plugged. I just installed a new water pump and thermostat. The car is still gettin too hot. The fans are working properly. The coolant level sensor on the radiator was disconnected when I got the car. I hooked it up and now the low coolant light stays on. Could this effect the accuracy of the temp gauge? I'm all out of ideas.
    maybe timing is way over??

  6. #26
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOMASINO View Post
    maybe timing is way over??
    i didnt do anything internal or mess with any timing....its most likely air in the system,....i havnt properly burped the system..

  7. #27
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    how does he burps the system. I need to replace my water hoses but im afraid of running on the same situation.
    jay, this link will show you how to burp the system....i will let you know how well it works when i find out this evening.

    http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    So I bled all the air out as shown in the link above. Everything seems to be fine. Even runs a bit cooler than before

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    Some cars are just more prone to air lock after a coolant change than others. I worked on a car years ago (don't recall the model) that I just could not get the thermostat to open in due to air in the system. I ended up removing the thermostat and drilling a small hole off to the side to solve the problem. Nowadays, most thermostats come with a bleeder hole and a checkball.

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    The Demon Demon_Z28's Avatar
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    I have found that raising the front end of the car up to where the radiator slightly sits higher then the heads while leaving the cap open untill the top the radiator is filled and no more air bubbles come out is when it burps the system the best. I generally do this for a good 20 to 30 min while making the sure the temp gauge doesn't reach to over heating temperatures which usually it never sees over 210 degrees.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon_Z28 View Post
    I have found that raising the front end of the car up to where the radiator slightly sits higher then the heads while leaving the cap open untill the top the radiator is filled and no more air bubbles come out is when it burps the system the best. I generally do this for a good 20 to 30 min while making the sure the temp gauge doesn't reach to over heating temperatures which usually it never sees over 210 degrees.

    The problem on our cars ('99 and up I believe) is that the temp gauge is a POS. On my scanner my car will run 185 to 194 with the thermostat I have in it. The dash gauge reads around 205 -- all the time once the engine is warm. Even when I air locked it once and the temp climbed up to 215 before I shut it down, the gauge continued to read 205. Don't trust the dash gauge.

  12. #32
    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Yea that's why my next purchase will be a gauge pillar with some new autometers restin inside of it.

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Yep a good mod, A real guage. I couldn't belive when I got rid of my 98 for the 2002 the guage went from a good working guage to a pos idiot light with a needle
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  14. #34
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    jay, this link will show you how to burp the system....i will let you know how well it works when i find out this evening.

    http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
    Thanks man. Glad to hear that everything seems to be working fine.

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