View Poll Results: which oil weight do you use
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which oil weight do you use
This is a discussion on which oil weight do you use within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 1TA LS1 is $3.59 per qt a good deal for Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30? I got hosed....$6.19 a ...
09-07-2007, 10:21 AM #141
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Charlotte, NC
Hugger Orange/W stripes
- 1999 Z28 M6
09-07-2007, 08:56 PM #142
On a side note, the more I think about it, the more sense it makes to put a magnet jacket or just magnets on the oil filter.
Biggest reason, is an oil filter can only hold down to only so many microns of particle size before it would then restrict oil flow, so by nature of the beast, they cannot make filters that catch down to 1 micron and still have good flow, so anything the filter let's through, goes back into the engine to start grinding away on your parts and further degrading your oil as it does other damage such as oxidation...hot spots...etc...
I may just be late to the party, if you all use 'em already, but if not, this seems like a great investment, if you plan on keeping the car long term, and especially if your starting out with low miles.
If you want to have the strongest magnet available and make your own particle remover, rare earth neodymium is the way to go. The magnet has to be strong to pull away the particles from a pretty thick flowing medium (the oil) and do it through a steel cylinder wall.
The magnets do however, come in varying grades, the higher the grade number (I believe N50 is the highest) the stronger the magnet's gauss field strenth in relation to size, and...unfortunately the more expensive.
These magnets are so strong they can actually fuck you up pretty good if you aren't careful, you get your skin between it and the object of it's desire and your gonna know about it pretty quick. Again, that would depend on the size of the neodymium magnet and it's grade. If allowed to slam against metal hard they will break, so again, one should be careful when applying.
09-08-2007, 11:10 AM #143
Magnet saftey is always important! -j/k
09-08-2007, 11:41 AM #144
According to recent Emergency Room surveys over 10,000 neodymium magnet/oil filter accidents were logged this year alone.
This number is considered way too high by the AMA and they feel if forewarned this number can be brought way down.
Please see the PNMAE.com website "Preventing Neodmium Magnet Accidents Everywhere", for the latest information on how to battle this preventable injury.
09-08-2007, 04:27 PM #145
09-08-2007, 06:20 PM #146
soo if just in summer what is better, 5 w 30 or 10w 30?? what is really the difference
09-08-2007, 09:15 PM #147
Since it's about to get a whole lot colder in MI, your next OC should be 5-30w
The difference is viscosity at a given temp. with a variable viscosity weight oil it will get thinner as it gets colder and thicker as it warms up. You want it to be thin on a cold day before it starts so it flows easily to all parts.
The overall effectiveness (viscosity) of let's say a 5-30w will degrade as the oil breaks down over a given amount of miles, which is why frequent changes are not only good but especially warranted with a an oil as such as a 5-30w
09-08-2007, 09:18 PM #148
i know FL is is more consistent then, and hotter year round+ humid more then detroit, but these last summers have been crazy like 97+ degreas.. but i dont drive my car in the winter soo but im thinking about sqitching to 10 w
09-08-2007, 09:37 PM #149
By 8am were over 88 and climbing.
In MI, you will have a few weeks of it, I know 'cause I have a bud there who I talk to almost every day, and he clears land for a living, so he's outside all day, every day in the summer, many many times I've talked to him while he's on his dozer, and yea he would tell me how hot it was, but recently his boss got a job down here and the first thing he told everyone was...don't worry I'm renting the equipment, all of them will have A/C'd cabs, they were glad to hear that.
You could easily go 10-30w in the summer, no problem, wouldn't sweat it, but right at the end of August I would switch it to 5-30w, even if you don't drive your car, it should be started on occassion. You should never let it sit for months without being started, very bad for so many reasons.
09-09-2007, 06:59 AM #150
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Texas Department of Corrections
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
Guys....I gurantee I have more heat and pressure in my 408 Stroker motor than most here in their LS1's.....I use to run a 40 weight....and had good results.....but the 10-30 I run now returns stellar metal wear results.....It gets colder than hell here in the winter and hotter than hell the rest of the year....I run 10-30 year round....the difference between a 5w and a 10w is very minimal and only relates to extreme cold....like well below zero......
Now I am not debating that a 5w flows "better" than a 10w...nope I aint because it does......but it is so minimal that when you factor in the difference in viscosity improvers and all those issues...the 10w comes out on top as a more shear stable oil because it uses less VI.....I also will not argue against more wear occurs at start up than any other time......and you want instant flow to the critical areas of your motor....so the thought of a thinner oil at ambient temps is a good thing....but never lose sight that...
A) a 5w and a 10w are so damn close in ambient flow rates it is a toss up.
B) your want shear stability.
C) High Temp High Shear ( HTHS) also called film strength is greater in a 10-30 than a 5-30. PP 10-30 is 3.1 and 5-30 is 3.0.....you want a oil to provide maximum film strength to lube your critical parts under pressure and high temps guys....
So....I guess I need to show the flow rate at ambient temps dont I to complete this thought .....PP 10-30 flows at 63.2 @40c and 5-30 flows at 59.7 @40c....but alas! Look at the flow rate at 100c or 212f....It's damn near even! What do these flow rate numbers mean...well ....that there isnt much difference between a 5 and a 10 weight is what it means.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity and focus on HTHS and shear stability as your determining factors on viscosity choice.....unless you live in Siberia.....
09-09-2007, 03:52 PM #151
sarge again, again and again you da man
looks like i might switch to the 10w 30
09-09-2007, 03:53 PM #152
definently the PP thoe
09-09-2007, 05:24 PM #153
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- 99 TA
Where a 5w oil really makes a difference is in a engine that uses flat tappets and depends on oil splash for cam lubrication.The faster the oil gets moving around the better.In roller cam engines like the ls1 is is not as important.
09-11-2007, 01:22 PM #154
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- 2004 SVT Cobra
You can get 5 quarts of PP at wal mart for 20 dollars, thats in one bottle though. Versus 6.19 for 1 quart at autozone, thats the best way to go when your changing your oil. Too bad all wal mart has are Fram oil filters though, at least around here.
09-11-2007, 05:50 PM #155
FYI, I got 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 for $6.40 at Kragen.
09-11-2007, 10:46 PM #156
09-11-2007, 10:49 PM #157
09-12-2007, 08:32 AM #158
Mobil 1 5W30 in the winter and 10W30 in the summer.
09-12-2007, 09:54 AM #159
I'm just wondering if one would be better off with straight 30w in the summer if your doing a lot of city driving and the occassional hard romp.
He does say he uses 10-30w all year round, so my answer prolly lies there.
09-12-2007, 08:38 PM #160
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