View Poll Results: which oil weight do you use

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  • 0w / 30

    17 5.74%
  • 5w/ 30

    129 43.58%
  • 10w/30

    129 43.58%
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which oil weight do you use

This is a discussion on which oil weight do you use within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 7camaro7 Sarge, you know anything about Schaeffers oil? I'm running 5w-30 on that and a kn o/f. ...

  1. #61
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7camaro7 View Post
    Sarge, you know anything about Schaeffers oil? I'm running 5w-30 on that and a kn o/f. How's that hold up against the competition?
    See anything that looks familiar to you in my oil stash?

    I highly recommend Shaeffers.....Pennzoil Platinums new chemistry is equal to Shaeffers......and I recommend PP simply because it is cost effective and easily obtained....Shaeffers is sometimes difficult to get for many of the guys....but if you can get it....you got a outstanding oil for sure.

  2. #62
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    I see you got Dr. Pepper, wtf, you know the sugar levels in that shit? Go with a Mt. Dew, or a Mt. Dew code red if you can find it. Will not do as much damage to your insides. I like to add a new dew to myself twice a day to insure no withdraws occur.

    Btw: NEVER BUY those five quart containers of oil. Every place I have gone and done the math, you always pay more for it. RIP OFF.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by splitfinger09 View Post
    Hey Sarge how do you feel about the wix filter? Also which filter do you run? Do you think all those tests Amsoil did comparing oils has any merrit? http://www.amsoil.com/products/atm_t...dex_flash.aspx

    Thanks for the help.
    I funded a private flow and filtration test using KN/Amsoil/Mobil1/AC Delco/WIX/NAPA Gold/Baldwin/Purolator/FRAM/SuperTech filters. I cannot publish the report from the lab per our agreement. Of course their lawyers fear retribution of some type from the players.....but I can share freely my opinions etc on the subject and the manufacturers can kiss my ass.
    My opinion on the filter subject is this.
    Mobil1/KN are great filters and way over priced.
    AC Delco/Purolator/WIX/NAPA/Purolator and Baldwins filter and flow so closely to the KN/Mobil1 that you cannot hardly differntate the results. But cost about 50% less.
    SuperTech is a damn good little filter and you can use it safely with no worries for 3K oil change intervals. Damn thing is dirt cheap and is a nice filter. Fram suck ass and didnt filter worth a shit and is very poorly constructed.
    Amsoil is the best filter period. Clear winner.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smkn_TA View Post
    I see you got Dr. Pepper, wtf, you know the sugar levels in that shit? Go with a Mt. Dew, or a Mt. Dew code red if you can find it. Will not do as much damage to your insides. I like to add a new dew to myself twice a day to insure no withdraws occur.

    Btw: NEVER BUY those five quart containers of oil. Every place I have gone and done the math, you always pay more for it. RIP OFF.
    I love Dr. Pepper so fuck off.
    I dont pay shit for my oil so fuck off.

    Seriously I dont drink soda's....I fuck up some Shiner Bock though
    I'm really not sure who around here drinks Dr. Pepper.....oh well.....as for the 5qt cointainers...WTF are you talking about? PP quart is like $4.98 per quart ( retail)and a 5 quart container is $19.95 (retail) Now I dont know what math your doing but my math tells me I just saved a $1 per quart.....stay away from my checkbook!

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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    I've had a mechanic tell me not to use penzoil as well. I'm no mechanic so I just listened to the guy. Last oil I used was some mobil high mileage if I remember right. I hope this stuff is ok, supposed to be for 5,000 miles i think. I won't wait that long though.
    Yeah mechanics are real tribologist for sure.
    Like asking your cook how to raise cattle. Son bitch can cook up a damn fine steak dinner but don't know shit about raising cattle if you get my analogy here......

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Yeah mechanics are real tribologist for sure.
    Like asking your cook how to raise cattle. Son bitch can cook up a damn fine steak dinner but don't know shit about raising cattle if you get my analogy here......
    good analogy....

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smkn_TA View Post
    Intersted in Sarges opinion on my oil practices...

    I use conventional oil, quaker state because my bro uses penzoil and my dad uses valvo. This way we can tell them apart. Anyways I change it every 2000 miles on the dot myself. And I top it off every 1000 miles. I was wondering what your opinion is on different weights for different outside temperatures?

    I run 5w 30 in winter when it is like -20 to 32F out. 10w 30 in Fall/Spring when it is like 40F-60F and 10w 40 in Summer when it gets up to 70 - 105F. Does it really help the enging that much that I do this? I know it says on most manuals 5w 30 only. But I changed 5w 30 once when it was like 87 out, holy shit it was like water.
    Your doing good man. Listen...the 5w is the flow charecteristics at like 32f.....the 10w means it flows a little thicker at 32f or 0c.....so when it is cold outside (like freezing) yes you want a oil that will flow better at start up....but once your at op temps ( 212f) both oils are 30 weights and work the same....so many people use some retarded math to conclude that 10-30 is really "thicker" at op temps....I think they say well 5+30 is 35 and 10+30 is 40 so 10-30 is thicker....and that is just Tard Math......sorta like Pennzoil causes sludge.....just retarded and baseless....but old urban myths die hard.....fuck data and science....my mechanic told me this or that....Pennzoil/Quaker State and Valvoline are great conventional oils that will serve you very well at 3K oil change intervals.....use a good filter....keep your PCV clean and working properly.....clean and utilize a good air filter.....and your golden...

  8. #68
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Sarge you told me several months ago that 10W30 is thicker than 5W30 at operating temps. Nevermind, you were talking film stregnth. Mobil1 100% Synthetic Not
    Last edited by INMY01TA; 08-12-2007 at 07:32 AM.

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    I’ll explain what I know on the subject of viscosity. Take it or leave it and this is my opinion based on my research and tons of it. So here goes……………..
    Viscosity is really measured two ways. One is the flow at certain temperatures. This is measure in Centistokes or cSt. So thicker oil will flow “slower” than thinner oil. So you get a measurement from a number like this…..
    Mobil1 5-30 has a cSt “number” of 10.6 @ 100c
    Amsoil 5-30 has a cSt “number” of 12.2 @ 100c
    So now you can see both are 5-30 weight oils but the Amsoil is significantly thicker than Mobil1 at operating temps. Now take some heavier weight oils and look at their flow…
    RedLine 10-40 has a cSt of 14.6 @ 100c.
    Royal Purple 10-40 has a cSt of 14.1 @ 100c.
    Mobil1 5-40 has a cSt of 14.7 @ 100c…..
    And because I know some folks run 20-50’s here are a couple of those….
    Amsoil 20-50 has a cSt of 18.3
    RedLine 20-50 has a cSt of 18.1

    OK great…this is wonderful…..but what does it mean? Well lets look at High Temp High Shear numbers and understand that and then we can start pulling some of this “viscosity” discussion together. High Temp High Shear or HTHS cuz my fingers are tired J
    HTHS is once again a number used to measure friction. Folks soak a hunk of metal for a day or two in an oil then use a very precise methodology and calibration to measure another hunk of metal rubbing against the oil soaked hunk of metal. They then can measure the resistance/lubrication of the oil versus other oils. How’s that for science and why do we care? Well firstly Southwest Research is the bomb when it comes to science and engine oil/filters and they are right here in my backyard….so here you can read up on HTHS and what exactly it is… http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/global/ViscHTHS/default.htm

    We care because it measure an oils lubrication capabilities and gives us a definitive scientific measurement when comparing how one oil lubricated versus another…..we can glean from this an oils ability to lubricate under very high temperatures and under extreme pressure from you lil shits slapping every mod on your motor and going out and driving with your right foot down all the time…..that’s why we care….So with HTHS the higher the number the less shearing and more lubrication your getting. Got it J
    So lets look at a few commonly used oils and their HTHS.
    Mobil1 5-30 HTHS of 3.1
    Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 HTHS of 3.0
    Amsoil 5-30 HTHS of 3.2

    Then you’ll find oils that have high 2’s etc. But these three are indicative of a good HTHS for a 30 weight. Where you want to be…..so,

    Thinner oil =more horsepower for lil Johnny.
    Thinner oil= lil Johnny engine doesn’t last very long due metal wearing on metal because lil Johnny didn’t have proper oil flow and film strength because his HTHS was too damn low and his oil broke down under the engine temps and pressure. So we got to find the happy spot for oils for our LSX motors guys……….How do we do that? We look at a shitload of Used Oil Analysis. We break all these down by engine/modification/geographical considerations etc. PITA! Trust me. And I have found the perfect cSt and HTHS to be this……
    cSt @100c of 10.4-11.0
    This insures us the oil is thin enough to maximize horsepower……..
    HTHS of 3.0-3.5
    This insures us that we have more than adequate shear protection and our oil will maintain proper film strength under high temps and high pressure to properly lubricate.
    Get outside of these parameters and you’re asking for trouble, lower performance and higher metal wear. It’s not rocket science. Most API SM rated 30 weights be they conventional or synthetic will fall into these parameters……check the manufacturers spec sheet for your favorite brand of oil on their web site to find the cSt@100c and the HTHS numbers….
    So that’s viscosity. And of course we can go on about add packs and friction modifiers and detergents and and and till the cows come home……..It just motor oil man J
    Hope this helps somebody understand viscosity a little better than just 5-30 or 10-30.




  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    See anything that looks familiar to you in my oil stash?
    Click for full size
    I highly recommend Shaeffers.....Pennzoil Platinums new chemistry is equal to Shaeffers......and I recommend PP simply because it is cost effective and easily obtained....Shaeffers is sometimes difficult to get for many of the guys....but if you can get it....you got a outstanding oil for sure.
    That looks like a minature store. One day I am gonna have my shit organized. I think half the time I buy things I already have cause its so unorganized.

  11. #71
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    alittle late on this one but i also use delco filters.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    See anything that looks familiar to you in my oil stash?
    Click for full size
    I highly recommend Shaeffers.....Pennzoil Platinums new chemistry is equal to Shaeffers......and I recommend PP simply because it is cost effective and easily obtained....Shaeffers is sometimes difficult to get for many of the guys....but if you can get it....you got a outstanding oil for sure.
    How does the Shiner Bock compare to the Coors light in terms of bang for buck? (buzz,hangover)

  13. #73
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    ^ hahahahaha!!!

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    How does the Shiner Bock compare to the Coors light in terms of bang for buck? (buzz,hangover)
    12 Coors Light= Laugh a lot and up and at em at 6am.
    12 Shiner Bock= Driving nekkid shooting the finger at the cops up and at em in two weeks.

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    See anything that looks familiar to you in my oil stash?
    Click for full size
    I highly recommend Shaeffers.....Pennzoil Platinums new chemistry is equal to Shaeffers......and I recommend PP simply because it is cost effective and easily obtained....Shaeffers is sometimes difficult to get for many of the guys....but if you can get it....you got a outstanding oil for sure.
    very nice but make sure after a few cold ones not to grab the oil instead of the beer

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    I’ll explain what I know on the subject of viscosity. Take it or leave it and this is my opinion based on my research and tons of it. So here goes……………..
    Viscosity is really measured two ways. One is the flow at certain temperatures. This is measure in Centistokes or cSt. So thicker oil will flow “slower” than thinner oil. So you get a measurement from a number like this…..
    Mobil1 5-30 has a cSt “number” of 10.6 @ 100c
    Amsoil 5-30 has a cSt “number” of 12.2 @ 100c
    So now you can see both are 5-30 weight oils but the Amsoil is significantly thicker than Mobil1 at operating temps. Now take some heavier weight oils and look at their flow…
    RedLine 10-40 has a cSt of 14.6 @ 100c.
    Royal Purple 10-40 has a cSt of 14.1 @ 100c.
    Mobil1 5-40 has a cSt of 14.7 @ 100c…..
    And because I know some folks run 20-50’s here are a couple of those….
    Amsoil 20-50 has a cSt of 18.3
    RedLine 20-50 has a cSt of 18.1

    OK great…this is wonderful…..but what does it mean? Well lets look at High Temp High Shear numbers and understand that and then we can start pulling some of this “viscosity” discussion together. High Temp High Shear or HTHS cuz my fingers are tired J
    HTHS is once again a number used to measure friction. Folks soak a hunk of metal for a day or two in an oil then use a very precise methodology and calibration to measure another hunk of metal rubbing against the oil soaked hunk of metal. They then can measure the resistance/lubrication of the oil versus other oils. How’s that for science and why do we care? Well firstly Southwest Research is the bomb when it comes to science and engine oil/filters and they are right here in my backyard….so here you can read up on HTHS and what exactly it is… http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/global/ViscHTHS/default.htm

    We care because it measure an oils lubrication capabilities and gives us a definitive scientific measurement when comparing how one oil lubricated versus another…..we can glean from this an oils ability to lubricate under very high temperatures and under extreme pressure from you lil shits slapping every mod on your motor and going out and driving with your right foot down all the time…..that’s why we care….So with HTHS the higher the number the less shearing and more lubrication your getting. Got it J
    So lets look at a few commonly used oils and their HTHS.
    Mobil1 5-30 HTHS of 3.1
    Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 HTHS of 3.0
    Amsoil 5-30 HTHS of 3.2

    Then you’ll find oils that have high 2’s etc. But these three are indicative of a good HTHS for a 30 weight. Where you want to be…..so,

    Thinner oil =more horsepower for lil Johnny.
    Thinner oil= lil Johnny engine doesn’t last very long due metal wearing on metal because lil Johnny didn’t have proper oil flow and film strength because his HTHS was too damn low and his oil broke down under the engine temps and pressure. So we got to find the happy spot for oils for our LSX motors guys……….How do we do that? We look at a shitload of Used Oil Analysis. We break all these down by engine/modification/geographical considerations etc. PITA! Trust me. And I have found the perfect cSt and HTHS to be this……
    cSt @100c of 10.4-11.0
    This insures us the oil is thin enough to maximize horsepower……..
    HTHS of 3.0-3.5
    This insures us that we have more than adequate shear protection and our oil will maintain proper film strength under high temps and high pressure to properly lubricate.
    Get outside of these parameters and you’re asking for trouble, lower performance and higher metal wear. It’s not rocket science. Most API SM rated 30 weights be they conventional or synthetic will fall into these parameters……check the manufacturers spec sheet for your favorite brand of oil on their web site to find the cSt@100c and the HTHS numbers….
    So that’s viscosity. And of course we can go on about add packs and friction modifiers and detergents and and and till the cows come home……..It just motor oil man J
    Hope this helps somebody understand viscosity a little better than just 5-30 or 10-30.


    I guess I picked the wrong guy to start an argument about oil with.

    So you think that my amsoil full synthetic is a little too thick for the ls1 because its cSt is 12.2? It is easier on the motor but I will lose hp?

    How much horsepower loss are we talking about? Although I don't mind giving up a little hp to extend the life of my motor.

  17. #77
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    When it come to oil, Sarge is on top of things. Thus the reason I take his word on PP.

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  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanater View Post
    I guess I picked the wrong guy to start an argument about oil with.

    So you think that my amsoil full synthetic is a little too thick for the ls1 because its cSt is 12.2? It is easier on the motor but I will lose hp?

    How much horsepower loss are we talking about? Although I don't mind giving up a little hp to extend the life of my motor.
    Well.....It wouldnt be significant unless your bracket racing and a tenth matters......but yes you are taking HP to move a thicker oil around your engine.....but it is not significant for a street beast.....I'd take protection first and performance second in a street car......or you can tune your oil as suggested.....we didnt argue...we discussed

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    Quote Originally Posted by greatwhiteZ28 View Post
    very nice but make sure after a few cold ones not to grab the oil instead of the beer
    I drink my beer out of an oil jug.

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