View Poll Results: which oil weight do you use

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  • 0w / 30

    17 5.74%
  • 5w/ 30

    129 43.58%
  • 10w/30

    129 43.58%
  • other please add

    21 7.09%
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which oil weight do you use

This is a discussion on which oil weight do you use within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 7camaro7 Sarge, I've been burning oil like CRAZY! Lately I've been using Schaeffer's 5w-30 at every oil ...

  1. #201
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7camaro7 View Post
    Sarge, I've been burning oil like CRAZY! Lately I've been using Schaeffer's 5w-30 at every oil change and its been like 3 within 5000 miles!!! Should I switch to 10w-30 to stop it from burning so much? Would it help? Thanks
    You burning that much oil there is more needed than a viscosity change for sure. Is your PCV valve good? Compression? Leaks?

  2. #202
    car enthusiast djvaly's Avatar
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    7camaro7, also do yo open throttle pretty much all the time? that'd burn oil in excess if you WOT just about everywhere. I notice on mine I needed to top it off in between oil changes since the "low oil" gage come on but I was flooring it just about everywhere, then I took it easy for a few months and did not need to add additional 1-1.5 oil bottles.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK View Post

    Also, you asked why thicker earlier, let me give you an analogy, grab a container of milk, now stick a phillips head screwdriver though the bottom and pull it out, see how fast that comes out?
    That's because the viscosity of milk is very low, now empty milk container and fill it with chocolate syrup, see how slow it comes out now? That's because it's viscosity is higher.

    Now if your going to stick with 5-30w, when you cold start your engine, your viscosity will be like the milk, and it will leak but good, as it warms, it will get thicker, it will leak still, but a little slower.
    so the oil is going to have the thickness of the syrup cold and pour like the milk when warm but still have the higher viscosity??

  4. #204
    Speak the truth jad628's Avatar
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    News flash!!

    Wal-Mart has Pennzoil Platinum in 10w30 5-Qt containers for $19.97, and one quart bottles for $4.84.

    I checked Auto Zone again and they still have it for $6.19 a quart!!!

    Go figure.
    Last edited by jad628; 09-24-2007 at 12:37 PM.

  5. #205
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    You burning that much oil there is more needed than a viscosity change for sure. Is your PCV valve good? Compression? Leaks?
    I don't know what my PCV valve is, but its most likely good. I look over my car all the time and I see no leaks and hear no funny sounds. It doesn't smoke, smell funny, or anything else. Seems to be normal. Drives strong and sounds great. I do get on it every now and then but definitely not everywhere I go.

  6. #206
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djvaly View Post
    7camaro7, also do yo open throttle pretty much all the time? that'd burn oil in excess if you WOT just about everywhere. I notice on mine I needed to top it off in between oil changes since the "low oil" gage come on but I was flooring it just about everywhere, then I took it easy for a few months and did not need to add additional 1-1.5 oil bottles.
    nope, I get on it every once in a while such as down shifting and cutting through traffic a bit but nothing major. I'm not 1/4mileing it everyday or nothing. I did happen to take it to the track recently though and ran 19 times down the 1/8th, but it was doing it before that too! Maybe anytime the rpms get above like 3500rpms it starts to eat the oil.

  7. #207
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNightStalker View Post
    so the oil is going to have the thickness of the syrup cold and pour like the milk when warm but still have the higher viscosity??
    As Sarge pointed out, don't confuse thickness, pour points and viscosity.

    That was an analogy, to try and simplify what happens with a multi-weight oil and everyone said, "Hey, I know oil is thinnner when it's warmer"

    But that is not what the engineer's mean when talking multi-weight engine oil viscosity.

    As Sarge already gave, "Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid to deform under shear stress."

    If I make a 5-30w oil cold, it's resistance to deforming under shear stress decreases, and when warmed increases, regardless of whether or not it appears thicker, that is what is supposed to happen with a multi-weight oil.

    Does it actually do it? Your gonna have to trust the engineers on that one, I wouldn't know how to prove it.

  8. #208
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    starting today on my winter beater i threw a quart of 10w30 in with 5w30 on 270K saturn... that leaks 1.5 quarts a week.

    it was a tip from a couple post above, to see if it would help out

  9. #209
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    nowww this is probly the dumest question out there but i dont know jack on oil....


    if its 5w30 , is it 5 wieght or 30 wieght? and whats the other number mean??? i told you dumb right

  10. #210
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    mobile 1 10w-30 is the way to go

  11. #211
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    Royal Purple 10-40

  12. #212
    Member Sam-SS's Avatar
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    Sarge, Three questions. I hope that I am not getting too far off of topic. If so, forgive me.

    Where is the best place (cheapest) to buy Amsoil filters for my modified LS1 Camaro SS. I think that the Amsoil P/N
    is EAO32.

    Secondly, I just purchased a sweet '99 Chrysler Town & Country van with 3.8L V6 and 80k or so miles. It was single owner and serviced on schedule using conventional multi-viscosity oil. It consumes no oil and does not leak. My question is there a risk in changing over to synthetic at this time? What would you recommend?

    Third, what weight of synthetic oil would you like in a pair of Chevrolet 502cuin crate engines being used in an offshore boat? Normal cruise is at about 3500rpm and
    they have oil coolers and fresh water cooling and
    run at 160 degrees engine temperature.

    Oh, I use Royal Purple 10w30 in the Camaro and the boat.

    ...>>Sam

  13. #213
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    you might get a invoice after thaat? LOLLOL JK

  14. #214
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greatwhiteZ28 View Post
    nowww this is probly the dumest question out there but i dont know jack on oil....


    if its 5w30 , is it 5 wieght or 30 wieght? and whats the other number mean??? i told you dumb right
    The base oil is always the lowest number. The viscosity enhancers open up when heated to reach the higher number. You always want the two numbers to have the least amount of difference as the viscopsity enhancers "wear" out and the oil can shear to a much lower weight.

  15. #215
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam-SS View Post
    Sarge, Three questions. I hope that I am not getting too far off of topic. If so, forgive me.

    Where is the best place (cheapest) to buy Amsoil filters for my modified LS1 Camaro SS. I think that the Amsoil P/N
    is EAO32.

    Secondly, I just purchased a sweet '99 Chrysler Town & Country van with 3.8L V6 and 80k or so miles. It was single owner and serviced on schedule using conventional multi-viscosity oil. It consumes no oil and does not leak. My question is there a risk in changing over to synthetic at this time? What would you recommend?

    Third, what weight of synthetic oil would you like in a pair of Chevrolet 502cuin crate engines being used in an offshore boat? Normal cruise is at about 3500rpm and
    they have oil coolers and fresh water cooling and
    run at 160 degrees engine temperature.

    Oh, I use Royal Purple 10w30 in the Camaro and the boat.

    ...>>Sam
    I buy Amsoil from Amsoil. Paid $20 bucks and you get dealer pricing through the prefered customer program. Well worth it.

    I highly recommend a AutoRX flush before changing over to a synthetic in a car/van with a few miles on em. This allows the engine to be absolutely clean and start out life with you fresh and a clean starting point.
    Auto RX discount for LS1.COM Members

    You running hydraulic lifters in the crate motors? If so RP is OK. Overpriced for what it is. Two oils that will serve you better are Pennzoil Plarinum 10-30 or the new Amsoil 0-30 Signature series. TBN over 13 is unheard of. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx?zo=515729

  16. #216
    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patriot1136 View Post
    mobile 1 10w-30 is the way to go
    way overpriced for what it is

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    I buy Amsoil from Amsoil. Paid $20 bucks and you get dealer pricing through the prefered customer program. Well worth it.

    I highly recommend a AutoRX flush before changing over to a synthetic in a car/van with a few miles on em. This allows the engine to be absolutely clean and start out life with you fresh and a clean starting point.
    Auto RX discount for LS1.COM Members

    You running hydraulic lifters in the crate motors? If so RP is OK. Overpriced for what it is. Two oils that will serve you better are Pennzoil Plarinum 10-30 or the new Amsoil 0-30 Signature series. TBN over 13 is unheard of. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx?zo=515729
    +1 same thing i did. Sarge sold me on it, i have amsoil and auto r/x'd it

  17. #217
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    The base oil is always the lowest number. The viscosity enhancers open up when heated to reach the higher number. You always want the two numbers to have the least amount of difference as the viscopsity enhancers "wear" out and the oil can shear to a much lower weight.
    thanks, i think i get now.

  18. #218
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patriot1136 View Post
    mobile 1 10w-30 is the way to go
    No it's not.

  19. #219
    Member Sam-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    I buy Amsoil from Amsoil. Paid $20 bucks and you get dealer pricing through the prefered customer program. Well worth it.

    I highly recommend a AutoRX flush before changing over to a synthetic in a car/van with a few miles on em. This allows the engine to be absolutely clean and start out life with you fresh and a clean starting point.
    Auto RX discount for LS1.COM Members

    You running hydraulic lifters in the crate motors? If so RP is OK. Overpriced for what it is. Two oils that will serve you better are Pennzoil Plarinum 10-30 or the new Amsoil 0-30 Signature series. TBN over 13 is unheard of. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx?zo=515729
    Great tips. Thanks much.

    On the AutoRX flush, the WEB page says to use it with
    a Group III oil. Is there any preference in brand and product to use for the two cleansing oil changes? I already have the AutoRX on order.

    The 502cuin crate motors do have hydraulic roller lifters.

    I was wondering if the 0W-30 oil is ok for the Central
    Florida regain (Tampa Bay Area), year round. By my old school thinking I should be using 10W-30 weight.

    I am thinking of using Pennzoil Plarinum 10-30 with
    Purolator oil filter in the v6 and Amsoil 0-30 Signature series oil
    in the Camaro and 502 crate motors with Amsoil filters.

    One other concern. All of these oils recommend changing
    at XXX miles or 1 year whichever comes first. With the 502 crate motors, they do not get enough use to come anywhere near the
    usage reflected by the mileage criteria. What would be the problem
    in changing the oil after a two year period in this case?

    Once again, thanks for the great input.

    ...>>Sam
    Last edited by Sam-SS; 10-05-2007 at 07:36 AM.

  20. #220
    ls1ftw tigersport14's Avatar
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    err... whats full synthetic... would anyone recommend it? im a noob

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