View Poll Results: which oil weight do you use

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  • 0w / 30

    17 5.74%
  • 5w/ 30

    129 43.58%
  • 10w/30

    129 43.58%
  • other please add

    21 7.09%
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which oil weight do you use

This is a discussion on which oil weight do you use within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey greatwhitez28, was thinkin...what the hell does your driveway look like? Also, you asked why thicker earlier, let me give ...

  1. #181
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Hey greatwhitez28, was thinkin...what the hell does your driveway look like?

    Also, you asked why thicker earlier, let me give you an analogy, grab a container of milk, now stick a phillips head screwdriver though the bottom and pull it out, see how fast that comes out?
    That's because the viscosity of milk is very low, now empty milk container and fill it with chocolate syrup, see how slow it comes out now? That's because it's viscosity is higher.
    You have the same hole, and the same volume of fluid, but each liquid leaks out at a different rate.

    Now if your going to stick with 5-30w, when you cold start your engine, your viscosity will be like the milk, and it will leak but good, as it warms, it will get thicker, it will leak still, but a little slower.

    Since we are talking about an engine with 270,000 miles on it, on which the last two years we are lucky to have a full crankcase of oil, we are long past worrying about metal on metal cold engine start up wear.
    Not to mention, I'm sure you haven't bothered doing regular oil changes, and just keep adding oil as needed. Your biggest concern is keeping the oil in the engine. I also assume since you've kept the car in this condition for so long you have no plans whatsoever of fixing the leaks and will let it die when it dies.

    All that a given, I would recommend straight 0-40w, if after considering all that, somehow you still want to keep cold engine start up wear to a minimum, then 10-40w

    If it were my car, and I needed it for another 6-9 months, I'd change the oil now, go 40w, last quart straight 50w, throw a single can of STP stop engine oil leak, from then on add straight 40w as needed, then leave the rest to the Gods of Saturn.

  2. #182
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    woooooow great info, and just went to local store and got some 10w 40, i only had 2 quarts left ( approx. 1 week LOL) and no im not allowed to park in the driveway, i park across the street infront of my neieghbors HAAAA, hey its public right. and yes, when it dies it dies, + i havent changed the filter for probly 10K

    thanks again, and i should have a result by next week

  3. #183
    Member bryceslu's Avatar
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    Ok...So I have read Multiple posts and threads and have come to the conclusion that I will most likely go with a AC Delco Filter...Oh and Sarge is the MAN. Now for the Oil?

    I am new to the LT1 scene and would like to switch to a synthetic oil for my first change. (engine is at 100K btw) My Permanent Address is in Northern WI where it easily gets to -30 in winter, and yes I will be driving in the winter as my Formy is my DD, but I will have my car at school in lower MI. From what I can decipher I will be better off running a 5w30 over a 10w30.

    So in conclusion It seems that I should run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and AC Delco Filter when I make the change? Does that sound about right? And when I will no longer be returning to the hellish winters in Northern WI I will probably switch to a 10w30 as well? Thanks
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  4. #184
    Senior Member greatwhiteZ28's Avatar
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    woow drive all the way to MI, do you go to blue or green ?

  5. #185
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    pewter
    2001 2500HD Silverado

    I run 15w-50 Mobil 1 in my 01 2500 HD Silverado with the 6.0
    Last edited by TheNightStalker; 09-21-2007 at 11:06 AM. Reason: screwed up

  6. #186
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    5w-30 Amsoil XL and Wix 51042 oil filter.

  7. #187
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK View Post
    Hey greatwhitez28, was thinkin...what the hell does your driveway look like?

    Also, you asked why thicker earlier, let me give you an analogy, grab a container of milk, now stick a phillips head screwdriver though the bottom and pull it out, see how fast that comes out?
    That's because the viscosity of milk is very low, now empty milk container and fill it with chocolate syrup, see how slow it comes out now? That's because it's viscosity is higher.
    You have the same hole, and the same volume of fluid, but each liquid leaks out at a different rate.

    Now if your going to stick with 5-30w, when you cold start your engine, your viscosity will be like the milk, and it will leak but good, as it warms, it will get thicker, it will leak still, but a little slower.

    Since we are talking about an engine with 270,000 miles on it, on which the last two years we are lucky to have a full crankcase of oil, we are long past worrying about metal on metal cold engine start up wear.
    Not to mention, I'm sure you haven't bothered doing regular oil changes, and just keep adding oil as needed. Your biggest concern is keeping the oil in the engine. I also assume since you've kept the car in this condition for so long you have no plans whatsoever of fixing the leaks and will let it die when it dies.

    All that a given, I would recommend straight 0-40w, if after considering all that, somehow you still want to keep cold engine start up wear to a minimum, then 10-40w

    If it were my car, and I needed it for another 6-9 months, I'd change the oil now, go 40w, last quart straight 50w, throw a single can of STP stop engine oil leak, from then on add straight 40w as needed, then leave the rest to the Gods of Saturn.
    All this seems about right-except the part about oil getting thicker as it gets warmer. Oil gets thinner as it gets warmer from what I have seen.

  8. #188
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BREAKxNECKxSPEED View Post
    All this seems about right-except the part about oil getting thicker as it gets warmer. Oil gets thinner as it gets warmer from what I have seen.
    No, not multi-weight motor oil, it does as I stated, has less viscosity when cold, and more viscosity when it is warmed.

    From Chevron;
    What does multigrade mean? Multigrade motor oils offer a combined viscosity to work under varied temperatures. Multigrade oils such as a 10W-30, are designed to have the viscosity of an SAE 10W oil at cold temperatures combined with the viscosity of an SAE 30 oil at engine operating temperatures. The "W" or "Winter designation indicates that the oil meets viscosity requirements for low temperatures (below 30F).

  9. #189
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    pewter
    2001 2500HD Silverado

    Oil thins as it warms....when you change your oil run your car to town and back then drain it and tell me that oil is thicker than the oil you are putting back in there. In my experiences oil has always been thinner when it is hot.

    just my .02

  10. #190
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    i was using pp before any of you were in diapers!<ppppp toke pppp>

  11. #191
    Senior Member 35thAnniZ28's Avatar
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  12. #192
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by {FzS}BlacKMagicK View Post
    Not true, "real" synthetic oil is a lot better than dinosaur oil, that is a proven over and over again hard core fact. It is expensive to make though.

    What is bs is calling dino oil synthetic oil and selling it at the price of real synthetic.

    Mobil I is a Group III oil (highly processed oil from the ground) and they are selling it as if it was, at a price as if it was, a Group IV completely man-made synthetic oil.

    That is where the rip-off comes in friend.

    Those that buy Mobil1 are getting ripped off plain and simple.

    Sarge has shown that consistently the much cheaper PP outperforms M1.



    Now what I'm wondering is how PP compares to Amsoil's real Group IV synthetic, would a UOA show enough of a difference to warrant the price?

    PP's results seem so good as to make me highly doubtful, but I don't know.
    The way I see it, we pay a helluva lot of money for our cars, and to many of us, they are our pride and joy. We also like to get on these cars, it's self evident then as to why it's a good idea to know well...what your putting in it.
    Penzoil Platinum is a group III base too. Same price as Mobil 1 around here.

  13. #193
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNightStalker View Post
    Oil thins as it warms....when you change your oil run your car to town and back then drain it and tell me that oil is thicker than the oil you are putting back in there. In my experiences oil has always been thinner when it is hot.

    just my .02
    You can't compare used motor oil to new, it loses viscosity as it is used.

    A test if it were to be done, would be to cool a new quart of multi-grade oil, and compare it's viscosity to warmed.

  14. #194
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivi View Post
    i was using pp before any of you were in diapers!<ppppp toke pppp>
    Since I just started using it, for that to be true, you would have to be at least 60 yrs. old.

  15. #195
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INMY01TA View Post
    Penzoil Platinum is a group III base too. Same price as Mobil 1 around here.
    Yes, I know, and even stated it isn't man made here.

    PP is not man made either, it has a different addpack though, which from tests done by Sarge and others, informs us that not only does it outperform M1, it is much cheaper.

    Amsoil makes a man made synthetic that is easily obtainable online, but is very pricy.
    Only GroupIV is man made.


    Let me explain this once and for all.

    Both PP and M1 are Group III oils, in other words they are highly processed dino oil, BUT...

    1) They have different addpacks.

    2) They have huge differences in price, with M1 being sold at or very near the price of a Group IV man-made oil.

    3)PP has been shown over and over to beat M1 in wear tests...so why pay more?
    Not only does it beat M1 in wear tests, but it's viscosity does not degrade as fast.

    Are we all on the same page now?

  16. #196
    Member {FzS}BlacKMagicK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35thAnniZ28 View Post
    vanessa hudgins doesnt shave..google it
    Correction, she does for me, I told her, she wasn't gettin any tounge action if everything wasn't shaved, and told her that meant, pits, legs and love bun.

  17. #197
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  18. #198
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    pewter
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    oil gets thicker as it warms??? that not logical just do your own test and tell me that is what your seeing, there is no way.

    hell you dont even have to do that.....just go buy 2 quarts of 20w-50 and stick one in the freezer and put one out side on a 90 degree day for 30mins to an hour and see which one pours faster. The one you left outside will.

  19. #199
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    If you have a 10-30 weight at "cold" it is a 10 weight....at engine operating temp it is a 30 weight. Called viscosity enhancers doing their job. A 30 weight is thicker than a 10 weight.
    Dont confuse pour points with viscosity and confuse the term thicker.

  20. #200
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Question Burning oil?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    If you have a 10-30 weight at "cold" it is a 10 weight....at engine operating temp it is a 30 weight. Called viscosity enhancers doing their job. A 30 weight is thicker than a 10 weight.
    Dont confuse pour points with viscosity and confuse the term thicker.
    Sarge, I've been burning oil like CRAZY! Lately I've been using Schaeffer's 5w-30 at every oil change and its been like 3 within 5000 miles!!! Should I switch to 10w-30 to stop it from burning so much? Would it help? Thanks

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