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oil ?'s

This is a discussion on oil ?'s within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ok i have a few questions... what should the oil pressure be at when running at about 2000 rpms? what ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member brock417's Avatar
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    oil ?'s

    ok i have a few questions... what should the oil pressure be at when running at about 2000 rpms? what oil weight should i use in Texas? and i changes my oil about 2.5-3k miles ago.. is it time to change it again? my oil change light comes on for a little while when you start it but then goes off. i have a 99 SS.. i just wanted to ask and make sure that im right before i destroy something. thanks for the help.

    EDIT... and what do i have to do to switch to full synthetic?

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    SUPREME member-oderator oneBADDz's Avatar
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    the light doesn't actually know anything, it just computes when it thinks you should change the oil based on when it was last reset and a few other variables. Also, there is no good oil change interval, just look at your oil on the dipstick, if it's gross change it, if it's fairly clean don't worry about it. Of course, make sure it's full, driving hard you will use some oil. As long as you are at least at 20 psi you are safe, I prefer more personally for a comfort zone. Less than that at low rpm is actually ok, but it's not settling. Uncammed with stock idle you probably won't ever see even that low. What does it run right now? I just stick with 5-30 If it's really hot where you are you can up it to 10-40, it's not extreme enough, hot or cold, in texas to merit any worries about weight.

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    Senior Member ss~zoso~ss's Avatar
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    just change it to full synthetic, don't believe there is anything you ahve to do except get a good oil filter since you are getting the good oil

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Yepp, i'v been usin mobil 1 5/30 for sometime now it it works. Full synthetic "manufac. says you cant go longer on changes" but i change mine ever 2k. If the oil you have in the car is nasty or pretty dirty then i would buy just some valvoline or some type of half decent oil and run it for about 500 miles or so too clean out your motor then i would change the oil and add the synthetic and new filter.
    just my op. thou
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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 in my car, year round. Synthetic maintains its viscocity very well, so I don't worry about it thinning out too much in the summer.

    I change it every 5K miles, sooner if it looks too dirty. I'm currently using an AC Delco filter, may switch to Mobil 1 filter at the next oil change. Changing your oil any sooner than 3K miles (even with conventional oil) is a waste, unless you really beat on the car or drag race it or something along those lines.

    As for switching to synthetic, no special procedures are required. Just drain out the old oil, change the filter, fill it with the new synthetic oil, and your done

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    my oil light was on too...came on after i just got it changed.....the guy at the gas station said turn your key to on but don`t start,pump the brake 2 times,turn key back to off then start car............this worked for mine but i did it 2 months ago so i hope i have it right.......anyplace that changes oil should be able to tell ya.......

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Yea theres a few ways too reset the light, on my ss its tap the gas pedal three times with ign on then turn too off then back on and its gone
    J

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Young stud Texans logging in and asking a bonafide oil question. Does this old mans heart good
    Your LS1 gonna like a thicker oil than 5-30....I recommend a good 10-40 year round....dont get caught up in this ambient ( outside air temp) bullshit to compute what oil you use. That only comes into play at start up in the Artic wilderness. At engine operating temps is what your gonna focus on...and that is normally around 200f or 97c...then you take into consideration bearing clearances etc. and voila...you got your oil weight figured out. So let me save you some trouble and go with a robust 10-40 and your good. If you use dino ( conventional)...I recommend a Castrol GTX 10-40 or a Havoline 10-40...A synthetic oil I recommend Royal Purple 10-40 or Royal Purple Racing 41 ( NAPA sells it), Castrol Syntec 10-40 would be my second choice. Always use a good filter....AC Delco or Purolator are great filters. As for your Oil Change intervals...with the dino's your good to go up to 4000 mile oil/filter changes. With the synthetics feel easy going 7000...or six months whichever comes first ( miles or months)....
    as for the notorious GM idiot oil light...no you do not step on your brake....turn your key on ( do not start the car) press your GAS PEDAL three or four times sorta fast...turn your key off...say Hook em Horns and turn your key back on for a few seconds...this resets the idiot light...
    I'm in between Austin and San Antonio....
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    Member 98Z-28Camaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Young stud Texans logging in and asking a bonafide oil question. Does this old mans heart good
    Your LS1 gonna like a thicker oil than 5-30....I recommend a good 10-40 year round....dont get caught up in this ambient ( outside air temp) bullshit to compute what oil you use. That only comes into play at start up in the Artic wilderness. At engine operating temps is what your gonna focus on...and that is normally around 200f or 97c...then you take into consideration bearing clearances etc. and voila...you got your oil weight figured out. So let me save you some trouble and go with a robust 10-40 and your good. If you use dino ( conventional)...I recommend a Castrol GTX 10-40 or a Havoline 10-40...A synthetic oil I recommend Royal Purple 10-40 or Royal Purple Racing 41 ( NAPA sells it), Castrol Syntec 10-40 would be my second choice. Always use a good filter....AC Delco or Purolator are great filters. As for your Oil Change intervals...with the dino's your good to go up to 4000 mile oil/filter changes. With the synthetics feel easy going 7000...or six months whichever comes first ( miles or months)....
    as for the notorious GM idiot oil light...no you do not step on your brake....turn your key on ( do not start the car) press your GAS PEDAL three or four times sorta fast...turn your key off...say Hook em Horns and turn your key back on for a few seconds...this resets the idiot light...
    I'm in between Austin and San Antonio....
    agree...I live in Oklahoma City and it is currently 100-107F

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    Junior Member 79JON's Avatar
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    I was about to post something similar to this. My last oil change I put in Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W30 and a Wix oil filter. (98 TA A4) Well when i first started driving the car the oil pressure went between 40-60psi. Ran great. Well, I live in south Mississippi and its been hot as hell down here and i drive my car daily. It still runs great and doesnt have any lights come on but lately the oil pressure tops out at 30-40psi when i first crank it and after driving it alittle while it drops to around 15-20psi. That seems alittle low to me!! im about 3K miles into this run with the oil and should be changing it soon. My question is am I running the right oil for these hot temperatures? Again the car still runs great and no oil change or SES lights arent turning on but it just scared me when the oil pressure has been dropping that low. I have 130K miles and I doubt the oil pump has ever been changed.

  11. #11
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79JON View Post
    I was about to post something similar to this. My last oil change I put in Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W30 and a Wix oil filter. (98 TA A4) Well when i first started driving the car the oil pressure went between 40-60psi. Ran great. Well, I live in south Mississippi and its been hot as hell down here and i drive my car daily. It still runs great and doesnt have any lights come on but lately the oil pressure tops out at 30-40psi when i first crank it and after driving it alittle while it drops to around 15-20psi. That seems alittle low to me!! im about 3K miles into this run with the oil and should be changing it soon. My question is am I running the right oil for these hot temperatures? Again the car still runs great and no oil change or SES lights arent turning on but it just scared me when the oil pressure has been dropping that low. I have 130K miles and I doubt the oil pump has ever been changed.
    Mobil 1 10W-30 Synthetic is perfect oil to be running in very hot temps. I live in NJ and use Mobil 1 5W-30 year round, even on the 100+ degree days we've had this summer. Oil pressure has never dropped below 35PSI, even sitting in traffic idling. With normal oil its not good to run low weight oil in high temps, but Full Synthetic maintains its viscocity and lubricating properties much better than conventional oil. Meaning high temps won't cause it to break down and turn into watery mush.

    Being that you live in MISS and its always warm, either 5W-30 or 10W-30 Synthetic are fine to run year round. As for your oil pressure, the lower oil pressure is normal (35-40PSI) when its hot out since the oil is thinner and flows very well, but 15PSI is really on the low side. I believe the LS1 is supposed to run a consistant 20-80PSI at all times. Might want to look into replacing your oil pump, just to be on the safe side.

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    I run 5-30 Mobil Synthetic. I got 170,000 on my 98 formula and I don't burn any oil in between changes. Thats right none. I do baby it and only really romp on it here an there. Cold I idle at 40psi and hit way higher when I'm on it. Once it warms up even on 100+ days here in Oklahoma, I get 40 at 2000rpms. about 30-35 at idle. I tried the mobile filter and now I use the Ac Delco I have higher pressure with the Delco. Not sure if that is really better or not, but I believe it is. As far as changing over. I would recommend switching to synthetic run it for 500-1000 and change it again. There is no way to get all the old out on the drain so you for sure have a mixture of both after switching so in my opinion chaning it quick will make sure to get all the old out and make sure you don't have any bubbles of non synthetic floating around in there.

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    o.k. you guys are right it was the gas pedal not the brake.....damn 70,s lol....

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    Member NHRAMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brock417 View Post
    ok i have a few questions... what should the oil pressure be at when running at about 2000 rpms? what oil weight should i use in Texas? and i changes my oil about 2.5-3k miles ago.. is it time to change it again? my oil change light comes on for a little while when you start it but then goes off. i have a 99 SS.. i just wanted to ask and make sure that im right before i destroy something. thanks for the help.

    EDIT... and what do i have to do to switch to full synthetic?
    The general rule is 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM's .......
    99 WS6 M6 NBM !Cags,!Cats,Vinci/Crane,Hurst,Detroit TruTrac,3:73,31 Splne,Edel.Race LT's,ORY,QTEC,Flow,ARP,Percy,MSD,SLP,AC/DELCO,Bosch,GMPP,Cntrfrce DF,Htchkiss,Susp.Tech,Lakewood,285's,Bilstein,Pro-kit,SLP,RK Sprt,A/Meter,Red Optima,Magnaflow S/S Tips,Hd Pins,Tint,Fire.Ex,[*4 Hot Rod Power Tours*]

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    I don't like our factory oil pressure gauges! I don't trust electronic gauges for anything... A good mechanical gauge can't be beat. I run 10w40 year round and 15w50 when I run the track. Both Mobil 1 fully syn. No matter what anyone says 5w30 heats up faster and gets thiner faster than 10w30 or 10w40. Depends on how you drive, how far, and how long. I drive 50+ miles a day easily, all hiway miles, and because I use 10w40 I let my car warm up pretty good before I go anywhere to make sure my oil is running well.

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    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Just to add my $.02 to the good info here... I usually run Amsoil 0w30 and about 10% 15w40 (I'm still playing with my 'soup' recipe--I'll get back to it once I'm back in the USA). In the 6+ years that I've had my SS, the oil pressure has never dropped below 40 psi, and usually varies between 40-60 psi depending on temp., rpms, etc.

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