Oil Pressure Issue

**Keystone4904** · 11-14-2009, 01:15 PM

Ok Guys, need help here. Finally got my T/A ready to roll. Going for its enhanced inspection next week, but major issue today. Car fires right up but once the temp comes up the oil pressure drops to 20 at an idle and once its in gear dips down well below that. Changed the cruddy oil twice now with no change yet. How much of a pain is it to drop the pan? and does this sound like a clogged sump?? PLEASE someone give me some words of reassurance. if not i will have to splurge and buy an ls6

lol now just cuz i said that last sentence, keep answers honest even thought the ls6 would be much nicer. HELP! thanks

**supercopone** · 11-14-2009, 02:09 PM

I may be wrong but it sounds like it might be the pump, I would pop of the valve cover and see if theres oil getting up there. I might be wrong, Im no wrench monkey.

**pajeff02** · 11-14-2009, 03:19 PM

Best bet would be to check the pressure with a master pressure gauge before you rip into things... would be a lot of work to change a pump only to find that you have a malfunctioning sender or gauge.

**importhater81** · 11-14-2009, 04:07 PM

Most pressure gauges are ment to be used in the oil sender port,which is a bitch to get to in a f-body.There is an adapter that threads on to the oil filter pad you can buy to use with a gauge,I think kent moore makes it.Sounds to me like it could be an oil pump as I've seen a few go bad on Gen3 gm small blocks.Could also be worn main bearings or worn crank journals.Does it knock when the pressure is low?How many miles?Is there coolant in the oil?

**Keystone4904** · 11-14-2009, 04:16 PM

Not sure what contaminated the oil if it was water or coolant, it was a recovered flood. It makes 0 noise running until the pressure dips and then it starts to tick, wouldnt go as far as a knock. 130K on the engine. It all seems fine until it it warms up. the car is running quite rich too. very little amount of metal on the pan bolt. but im concerned about the bearings

**importhater81** · 11-14-2009, 05:26 PM

Definately a pressure problem,so no need to go through the trouble of checking with a gauge.If it was me,I wouldn't even mess around with trying to repair the engine in your car now,damage is already done.I would start looking for a replacement via new,used crate or whatever fits your budget.If it was in a flood and the engine was run with water in it before the oil was changed that is probably the source of your oil pressure issues.

**supercopone** · 11-14-2009, 08:40 PM

Originally Posted by importhater81

Definately a pressure problem,so no need to go through the trouble of checking with a gauge.If it was me,I wouldn't even mess around with trying to repair the engine in your car now,damage is already done.I would start looking for a replacement via new,used crate or whatever fits your budget.If it was in a flood and the engine was run with water in it before the oil was changed that is probably the source of your oil pressure issues.

Wtf? Thats a bit drastic dont you think....It would be a lot better to get it to a pro

**importhater81** · 11-15-2009, 04:16 AM

Originally Posted by supercopone

Wtf? Thats a bit drastic dont you think....It would be a lot better to get it to a pro

He said in his second post the oil was contaminated and it was a recovered flood car.What is drastic about shopping around for a replacement engine as oppose to repairing a 130K mile motor?A "pro" is going to want to open the engine up,so he is already going to be into it for big $$$ anyway if he goes that route.

**Keystone4904** · 11-15-2009, 06:34 AM

I can understand the logic. Is it cost effective to rebuild my motor versus buying a new or even used one with less miles? Havent had the chance to price necessary components yet. I took a chance buying the flood, but the car is solid, minus the shakey engine which now needs work.

**importhater81** · 11-15-2009, 06:49 AM

If you can do the labor yourself,it might be cost effective to rebuild your motor.It would all depend on if your going to do a stock rebuild and fix what is wrong with it,or go with a performance build i.e.bigger cam,heads,forged crank,rods etc.Basically you won't know what your are going to have to do until you get the motor apart.For reference,I replaced a crank,bearings,connecting rods,and a oil pump in a 6.0L gto under warranty,and the claim was around $2600 parts and labor.Keep in mind that was warranty labor time and parts cost.

**Keystone4904** · 11-15-2009, 07:07 AM

Here's something i have been kicking around. Buy a new block($1200~) and salvage what would still be good off my motor for the time being such as heads, intake, blah blah you know what im getting at. Now as for the bottom end, it would all need to be stripped and looked at thoroughly. But the new block would be much stronger and would allow for a cam and future aspiriation mods without questioning the strength of the cylinder walls. rebuild kits are fairly cheap and id probably be well under what a dressed crate LS1 is doing, i could be wrong. To me its a crap shoot. i cant afford to just drop 7K on a motor at the time, Unless i sell my ZR2 which gets me through the snow (right around the corner) anyone want to buy any of my guns instead? lol

**importhater81** · 11-15-2009, 07:18 AM

If you do some searching around you could probably find a Ls1 short block in the $1200-1500 range.Ls1's or Lsx blocks are a dime a dozen nowadays,not nearly as costly as they once were.