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Oil pan gasket removal

This is a discussion on Oil pan gasket removal within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; You may need to heat the motor mounts with a propane torch (or something similar) for the rubber mounts to ...

  1. #21
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    You may need to heat the motor mounts with a propane torch (or something similar) for the rubber mounts to release from the clamshell. I believe they are vulcanized onto the metal during the manufacturing process. This is done after you remove the mounts from the car and drill out the rivets.

    Also, be certain to unhook your intake ducting, or at least unclamp your air lid, before you go jacking the engine up. Be sure to disconnect your battery as well so you are not setting off fireworks in your engine bay. When you disconnect the brake line, quickly slide an appropriately sized rubber vacuum cap over the end of the open line as this will prevent excessive air from entering the system and stop it from dripping brake fluid all over the place.

    And, most importantly, do not forget to take some pics so you can post them up in this thread!

  2. #22
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You may need to heat the motor mounts with a propane torch (or something similar) for the rubber mounts to release from the clamshell. I believe they are vulcanized onto the metal during the manufacturing process. This is done after you remove the mounts from the car and drill out the rivets.

    Also, be certain to unhook your intake ducting, or at least unclamp your air lid, before you go jacking the engine up. Be sure to disconnect your battery as well so you are not setting off fireworks in your engine bay. When you disconnect the brake line, quickly slide an appropriately sized rubber vacuum cap over the end of the open line as this will prevent excessive air from entering the system and stop it from dripping brake fluid all over the place.

    And, most importantly, do not forget to take some pics so you can post them up in this thread!
    Thanks. Yes I have a new camera that will be used to record the events. My understanding is that I don't have to disconnect any brake lines but I don't see how im not overstretching the ones that run thru the K member. I will look closer tomorrow. I will need to go get a torch before I start. I think im removing he OPSU too. Is kinda of close to the hoses running behind it. I guess I will have to put my fan under the engine to cool it down so I can get started quicker.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-07-2011 at 08:52 PM.

  3. #23
    Junior Member southpaw0314's Avatar
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    i didnt have to use a torch for the motor mounts i just used a screw driver and scraped out the old rubber.

  4. #24
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by southpaw0314 View Post
    i didnt have to use a torch for the motor mounts i just used a screw driver and scraped out the old rubber.
    nice to know. I'll just get it just in case and return it if i don't use it.

  5. #25
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    And so it begins... I started around 10am removing parts. I removed the battery wires and started right away. I just finished removing the alternator, A/C compressor(out of the way), A/C compressor bracket, starter, oil, oil filter, airlid and MAF, sway bar, loosen up all the clamps that hold the brake lines, shocks tower braces, releasing the steering linkage. I suction the PS fluid of the reservoir just in case the line pops. I don't feel like drinking PS fluid...

    I'm taking pictures on the way so it's taking me some additional time. I'm going to eat lunch and then the acttion continues...

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    I think you are making a mountain out of a mole hill but if you got the time so be it !

  7. #27
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    ok like usual things dont happen the way you plan. I had to drop the K member pretty far. Letting hangf from the shocks don't give me enough clearance. I had to unhook the PS hoses to be able to do it. I was finally able to pull the pan out. I had plenty of access to get the mounts off. I cleaned the oil pick up tube screen it was kinda clogged. There was alot of sludge at the bottom of the pan. I cleaned all that crap out. I got the clams open and switched the mounts with polys. The OEM ones were not too bad.

    Im going to try to get the pan and mounts in tonight then finish off tomorrow. I have a question: I got the oil cooler block off plate from the dealer and it looks different. It fits but is all metal. the current one has rubber in it. id this an upgraded version? Should I use it?


  8. #28
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    I think you are making a mountain out of a mole hill but if you got the time so be it !
    some people do like sharing their experiences with others... Plus its my new camera so yeah!

  9. #29
    Junior Member southpaw0314's Avatar
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    its the same thing the old one is just crushed from being in there so long.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by southpaw0314 View Post
    its the same thing the old one is just crushed from being in there so long.

    The new one is on the right.

  11. #31
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    The new one is on the right.
    lol if you read I mention the new one is metal... Anyway i just put the old one back. Will see if it leaks. I just finished putting back the K member and the motor mount bolts. It when in pretty easy. I hope the dabs of RTV are enough and it don't leak.

    This was a learning experience today. I'm tired and is 12am here in FL. I'm going to take a shower and go to bed. I will put the rest of the stuff tomorrow.

  12. #32
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    Dang, long day

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    Im going to try to get the pan and mounts in tonight then finish off tomorrow. I have a question: I got the oil cooler block off plate from the dealer and it looks different. It fits but is all metal. the current one has rubber in it. id this an upgraded version? Should I use it?
    Click for full size
    Click for full size
    Hmmm...never seen an all metal one before. I think I'd prefer the rubber one. hopefully it doesn't leak for you.

  14. #34
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Hmmm...never seen an all metal one before. I think I'd prefer the rubber one. hopefully it doesn't leak for you.
    I checked with GM again and the guy checked really good and it show that the replaced the old type gasket number with this new one. I put the old one back. Will see if it leaks.

  15. #35
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    well im happy to say that im finished. I haven't seen any leaks so far. I'm not too happy with the poly mounts. I get too much vibration at idle. I might change them back. The stock ones looked okay. I might get new OEM mounts later and swap them. Does the poly mounts soften up some after some time or is pretty much the same as it is now? I also replaced the A/C pulley and belt they were pretty bad.

    Thanks to all the people that chimed in and help me thru this whole procedure.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-09-2011 at 02:54 PM.

  16. #36
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    That new gasket is designed to crush, like intake manifold gaskets. One time use only, compared to the old style with the impregnated rubber that can be reused.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat50 View Post
    That new gasket is designed to crush, like intake manifold gaskets. One time use only, compared to the old style with the impregnated rubber that can be reused.
    Thanks for the info. Does it matters which way it gets install? It pops more on one side. The old one has not showed any leaks.

  18. #38
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    Update: I have checked the gasket frecuently since the install. I'm still getting some oil but more towards the back. I'm thinking either the rear main seal or some left over residual. It looks like my KN oil filter is leaking. Its not by the gasket its the filter itself. I'm switching to Fram extended guard on my next oil change.

  19. #39
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    Just trying to learn as my z still leaks back pan somwhere??
    I did notice puddle on bottom of oil filter .
    Oil filter seems tight.
    Now this plate is where up on pan rail next to oil filter???
    Now purpose is ?
    Two bolts hold it up?
    Well if loose cold leak oil?
    If so think ill jackit up again and check.



    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Hmmm...never seen an all metal one before. I think I'd prefer the rubber one. hopefully it doesn't leak for you.

  20. #40
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    Yes its the 2 bolt cover thing above the oil filter. On our cars its a block off plate. On other LS based cars and trucks, thats where the oil cooler lines hook up. Here a picture. the person who took the pic, tapped the block off plate and install a aftermarket oil pressure gauge sending unit.

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