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Oil pan gasket removal

This is a discussion on Oil pan gasket removal within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok so my oil leak is getting worse. I have been reading on the web for a few days on ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Oil pan gasket removal

    Ok so my oil leak is getting worse. I have been reading on the web for a few days on different ways to remove the oil pan.
    1. People say to put a jack under the balancer, lose the tranny mount and engine mounts. I don't really feel this is right so I'm not doing this one.
    2. Like must people will tell me you need an engine crane to lift the motor up. I don't have a lift and I will do this as a last option in my buddy's shop but is going to cost me.
    3. I read of someone loosen the engine mount bolts. Put a 2x4 under the pan lift the engine up with a jack and put 2x4 at the engine mounts then lower the jack. Supposely this gives you some clearance and holds the motor up.
    Does this give me enough clearance?

    Any other ways or advise as far as me doing this? If I can't do it then I'll just have to save up for the shop labor. Thanks.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I'm not sure you'd be able to tilt it enough to clear the transmission bellhousing, but maybe. I think you should be able to do it at home though. Worst case scernario, you'd have to lower the K member a bit for more clearance. But then you'd have to hold the engine up by the balancer....which in my opinion is ok to do.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    So you are saying that it is okay to jack the car up by the balancer (by that you mean the big ass pulley at the bottom of the engine right?)if I put a piece of wood in between? Do I get clearance to change the motor mounts this way too? i don't plan on doing headers anytime soon. Do I need RTV or any other materials besides the gasket? I read something about the gasket has to perfectly align or it leaks and also that you need to put RTV in the 4 corners. Can you elaborate on this please? I know is not rocket science but I wanna make sure before I start it. If I can do the motor mounts im looking to get the Prothane 7512's. Should I get the gasket from GM or the Felpro one is fine? Any feedback on those? Thanks Cutlass.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-01-2011 at 08:43 PM.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Also whats the name of the small gasket for the plate that is right above the oil filter? I believe thats the oil cooler block off plate. I can't find it. Is the stock LS1 engine a small block or big block? I'm trying to get everything from summit but they have different gaskets not sure which one is the one I need. thanks
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-02-2011 at 10:39 AM.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    No, don't jack the whole car up by the balancer pulley.
    Here's how I think it can be done. Get the car up in the air as high as you can on 4 jack stands. Make sure the front jack stands are on the body and not the Kmember or lower control arms.
    Then unbolt the motor mounts.
    Then jack the engine up with a jack and block of wood on the balancer pulley as high as you can. Obviously be careful.
    Then unbolt the pan and see if it'll come out.
    If not then loosen/unbolt the Kmember and see how far it'll drop down and see if that gives you enough room. Make sure you're careful that any thing thats attached to the K member (wires, steering shaft, etc) won't get over stretched and broken. Disconnect those thing before hand if necessary

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    And yes get some sort of RTV sealer. There are a couple spots that need a dab of sealer. The oil cooler block off plate is pn 12553210 for the gasket.
    A felpro oil pan gasket should be fine and so is the GM gasket

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Thank you Cutlass. What about the motor mounts can they get changed at the same time? I'm going to get all the parts 1st.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Ok, well I just looked up the procedure in the service manual and it recommends removing the k-member to do an oil pan. And I have to say, I think it might be necessary, considering you might not have enough room to clear the the transmission and the engine oil pump pickup tube and the k member.
    And if you remove the K member, then the motor mounts are probably pretty easy to get to.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Ok sounds good. I already order the prothane 7-512B motor mounts. I'm going to the dealership to get a qoute on the oil pan gasket and oil cooler block off plate.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    I got the oil pan gasket and oil cooler block of plate from local GM dealer. It was way cheaper than autozone. The part number for the oil cooler block off plate is actually 12611384. Can someone tell me the K member bolt sizes? I just wanna get the sockets ahead of time. I wanted to get OEM motor mounts but they are just too expensive. I order the prothane ones. Hopefully it will not vibrate too hard...

    Cutlass can you tell me where do i have to put the dabs of RTV on the gasket? Thanks.

  11. #11
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    the dabs of sealer go on the engine. when you look up at the pan sealing surface of the engine, you'll see the parting lines where the front cover and rear main cover meet the engine block. Thats where the sealer goes. its obvious when you look at it. The old gasket will also probably have a little sealer on the same spots, so you can reference that.
    Make sense?

  12. #12
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    The 6 K member bolt heads require an 18mm socket.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Thanks Cutlass.

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    been there done that. k member 3 bolts each side, remove the engine mount bolts. with the car raised I lifted the front of the engine with a tranny jack. That gives enough clearance to change the gasket.easy easy job just takes time.
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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    been there done that. k member 3 bolts each side, remove the engine mount bolts. with the car raised I lifted the front of the engine with a tranny jack. That gives enough clearance to change the gasket.easy easy job just takes time.
    I have to remove the rack and pinion from the k member right? and probably disconnect the PS hoses, right? anything else that need to be removed? Im just waiting on the motor mounts to get started.

  16. #16
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Ok so the mounts are here. I was reading the instructions and it says that I need a torch to remove the old rubber from the clam shells. has anyone done this or can i scrape it off?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I haven't done the motor mounts but I thought all you had to do was drill out the clamshell rivets and split open the clamshell. The old mount falls out and the new one slides in. Someone who's actually done it should chime in here.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    thanks Cutlass. I was looking today at the K member and the surrounding areas. I was able to check all the bolts an I can get them loose no problem. I did noticed that the right front wheel brake line runs thru the K member. I guess I can remove the brake lines(left and right) coming out of the ABS module. Is there anyway around this?
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-07-2011 at 04:07 AM.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    not sure

  20. #20
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Well the day has come for me to do this. Tomorrow is the big day. I will update as soon as is done.

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