Oil Pan Gasket Change on vehicle

[free1999z28]

Is this possible? I dropped my tranny for a clutch swap. I found my rear main seal was seeping. I've changed that, it goes in very easily. No problems there.
What I'm seeing is that it appears my Oil Pan gasket is also leaking (mostly on Driver's side). I purchased a new gasket from the stealership, but now I've got to drop the pan to get the new gasket installed. It looks like there is no way I'll have enough clearance between the pan and the K member. Can anybody tell me if it's possible to drop the pan for a new gasket without removing the K member?
I plan on tackling this tomorrow. I just want to know if I should struggle with trying to force the pan down, or if I should start by removing the K member.
Thanks to anyone with hands on experience with this.

BTW--it's a 99 Camaro z28 6-speed.

[Sarge]

I did one for kid a few years ago....just bust loose the motor mounts and jack the motor up a bit to get the pan out. No biggie...

[free1999z28]

do I need to take apart anything off the top end, like intake? Or just jack it up until the highest parts touch the top of firewall? I'd like the easiest way possible.
Thanks.

[Sarge]

No just watch your fuel lines and stuff....you only need a couple of inches....

[bills98ta]

I suspended my motor, took the steering joint off the rack, six bolts to drop the K-member, and leave it hang by the shocks... It's really not that bad !!!

[bills98ta]

If you do drop the oil pan, replace the oil pump pick-up tube O-ring while you're in there !!!

[0verkill]

if you have the time and some $ i would look into geting this to
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92624

[free1999z28]

Thanks all for your advise. I finished the pan today, will finish the rest tomorrow. It was a lot more work than I anticipated.
I removed motor mount bolts, but had to remove a/c compressor bolts and remove the bracket (didn't open the A/C lines) so that motor mount bolt could push though to the front of the car. Also, removed alternator (piece of cake compared to the a/c compressor). I suspended engine by wrapping chain around headers and used a cherry picker to lift (I had to remove coil packs on both sides to avoid damaging them). I also used a floor jack under the crank pulley to get the last 1/2 inch needed to clear the oil pickup. I changed the oil pickup o-ring, too. Cleaned everthing up. Also, used plenty of black rtv at the corners AND around the oil filter holes (my pan was gunked up badly around the oil filter).
In the process, I broke the EVAP PURGE SOLENOID on the driver's side. I'll have to stop by the dealership tomorrow to pick one up.
In all, it took a lot longer than I expected. I wish I would have just dropped the entire motor/trans out the bottom of the car rather than wrestling all these parts off the vehicle (this job started as a clutch replacement). Space is very tight while working on-vehicle. I've never dropped the motor/trans out the bottom. How long would this have taken?
Also, does anybody know if the EVAP PURGE from a 2000-2006 silverado/tahoe is the same part? If so, there is a good local parts dismantler that I may try before going to the dealership.

[squee]

Thanks all for your advise. I finished the pan today, will finish the rest tomorrow. It was a lot more work than I anticipated.
I removed motor mount bolts, but had to remove a/c compressor bolts and remove the bracket (didn't open the A/C lines) so that motor mount bolt could push though to the front of the car. Also, removed alternator (piece of cake compared to the a/c compressor). I suspended engine by wrapping chain around headers and used a cherry picker to lift (I had to remove coil packs on both sides to avoid damaging them). I also used a floor jack under the crank pulley to get the last 1/2 inch needed to clear the oil pickup. I changed the oil pickup o-ring, too. Cleaned everthing up. Also, used plenty of black rtv at the corners AND around the oil filter holes (my pan was gunked up badly around the oil filter).
In the process, I broke the EVAP PURGE SOLENOID on the driver's side. I'll have to stop by the dealership tomorrow to pick one up.
In all, it took a lot longer than I expected. I wish I would have just dropped the entire motor/trans out the bottom of the car rather than wrestling all these parts off the vehicle (this job started as a clutch replacement). Space is very tight while working on-vehicle. I've never dropped the motor/trans out the bottom. How long would this have taken?
Also, does anybody know if the EVAP PURGE from a 2000-2006 silverado/tahoe is the same part? If so, there is a good local parts dismantler that I may try before going to the dealership.

Dropping the motor from the bottom usually only takes a couple hours at most. Only the is you have to rebleed the brakes, which sucks. I've seen people who've done got it down be able to do it in a hour or so.

[Justin93]

I suspended my motor, took the steering joint off the rack, six bolts to drop the K-member, and leave it hang by the shocks... It's really not that bad !!!

That can't be good for the pistons in the struts! Did it mess them up?

[bills98ta]

That can't be good for the pistons in the struts! Did it mess them up?

I don't drop it down, I lower the K-member down. It's really not heavy. Then you have aligning pins when you jack it back up into place. The front coil springs are pushing on them when you jack up the car... No harm !!! LOL !!!

[Justin93]

I don't drop it down, I lower the K-member down. It's really not heavy. Then you have aligning pins when you jack it back up into place. The front coil springs are pushing on them when you jack up the car... No harm !!! LOL !!!

Ok I see what your saying

[bills98ta]

Ok I see what your saying

The only thing is, you have to make sure the car won't fall on you !!!

[Justin93]

The only thing is, you have to make sure the car won't fall on you !!!

Ah I got a lift for that lol, I build Rock Crawling Jeeps so i have access to some nice equipment.

[bills98ta]

Wish you lived a little closer, Buddy ole Pal !!! LOL