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oil drain plug won't back out

This is a discussion on oil drain plug won't back out within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 Well hopefully this weekend I'll have time to go to the base and get it up ...

  1. #61
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Well hopefully this weekend I'll have time to go to the base and get it up on a lift and try and bend the header a bit away from the oil drain plug.
    I won't be trying that as the guys said you run the risk of breaking a bolt in the heads. For that heat it up with a torch and hit it with a hammer to create enough clearance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    I won't be trying that as the guys said you run the risk of breaking a bolt in the heads. For that heat it up with a torch and hit it with a hammer to create enough clearance.
    When I said that I meant using a hammer or something to do it. I have a torch so I might use it to do that.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I'm thinking you're definitely not gonna be able to bend that back...unless you use a frame puller or something You might be able to flex it out of the way so you can remove the drain plug.
    Otherwise a small dent with a hammer is about all you're gonna be able to do.

  4. #64
    38 of 139 PontiacFan's Avatar
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    I agree with Cutlass, a little flex with a pry bar & it should come out.
    Key='little flex'
    Anyone who was saying things about a motor mount, Think for a moment, ..., The headers are connected to the heads, connected to the block, where the pan is also connected to the block.
    Hence they are all connected solid to each other. Meaning if a motor mount is bad, it is not going to change the pysical dimension between the pan & the header as they ALL move together. The only thing you could perhaps see, would be flex between the header & the y-pipe & the rest of the exhaust. And I doubt the y-pipe is going to make the header grow closer to the pan that much.

    The headers are built similar to the FLP & SLP design, in which case there were probably hundreds or even thousands of sets out there in the F-body world.
    Which leads me to say, I highly doubt there is an issue with how they were built & their position.

    Maybe the last time you did change the oil, your plug simply twisted down & out of the way when it reached that point, & this time you simply went straight out with it? I know for a fact mine is that way. When it reaches near the end, you have to start to bring it down, or it will eventually run into the header tube. But it's not been a problem for me.
    And yes, there is just enough 'slack' in the threads at that point to do that.

    Got a bench grinder? Grind off the last couple threads & regrind a nice lead-in chamfer again.
    Or take the bolt to the hardware store, or auto partrs store & find a new one, that perhaps might be a bit shorter.

    I'd guess that the gasket does more to holding the oil in the pan than the thread profile itself.

  5. #65
    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    I will probably just end up cutting the bolt if it won't relatively easily bend back to how it should be since I really don't want to mess up the header and have to buy new ones right now.

    But a quick question, will having the header so close to the oil pan have any ill effect on the oil? Such as over heating or causing its viscosity to become too thin at operating temperature?
    still have to get it out all the way... i'd take the header off and give it a good look to see if it is bent...

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    still have to get it out all the way... i'd take the header off and give it a good look to see if it is bent...
    I didn't mean cut it off while it's still in the oil pan. I meant once I got it out I'll cut it. For now I will probably cut it if I can't bend it a bit, but if it will bend that is a moot point really.

    Quote Originally Posted by PontiacFan View Post
    I agree with Cutlass, a little flex with a pry bar & it should come out.
    Key='little flex'
    Anyone who was saying things about a motor mount, Think for a moment, ..., The headers are connected to the heads, connected to the block, where the pan is also connected to the block.
    Hence they are all connected solid to each other. Meaning if a motor mount is bad, it is not going to change the pysical dimension between the pan & the header as they ALL move together. The only thing you could perhaps see, would be flex between the header & the y-pipe & the rest of the exhaust. And I doubt the y-pipe is going to make the header grow closer to the pan that much.

    The headers are built similar to the FLP & SLP design, in which case there were probably hundreds or even thousands of sets out there in the F-body world.
    Which leads me to say, I highly doubt there is an issue with how they were built & their position.

    Maybe the last time you did change the oil, your plug simply twisted down & out of the way when it reached that point, & this time you simply went straight out with it? I know for a fact mine is that way. When it reaches near the end, you have to start to bring it down, or it will eventually run into the header tube. But it's not been a problem for me.
    And yes, there is just enough 'slack' in the threads at that point to do that.

    Got a bench grinder? Grind off the last couple threads & regrind a nice lead-in chamfer again.
    Or take the bolt to the hardware store, or auto partrs store & find a new one, that perhaps might be a bit shorter.

    I'd guess that the gasket does more to holding the oil in the pan than the thread profile itself.
    I think I'll try going down with it like you suggested before I try anything else. I do not have a bench grind but I do have access to one. I agree I believe the gasket does more than the thread does itself. That is one of the reasons I need to change my oil. Well first reason is that it is time and the second is that I am leaking at the gasket in the drain hole, so I need to replace the gasket.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 04-15-2011 at 07:55 AM.

  7. #67
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    OP, I was under mine today and took a snap shot of my headers. This is where your drivers side headers should look like. I seriously think there is something wrong with yours.

    AS you can see in the pic I have about 4 inches of clearance



    but I also discovered my rack and pinon is leaking
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 04-16-2011 at 05:28 PM.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    The bolt is. Here's the pics:
    They are blurry and make the header look REAL close to that oil filter.

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    Thought about this thread when I was driving home. any updates?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Thought about this thread when I was driving home. any updates?
    Well once I get my car up and running I am taking it to the base to try and get the bolt out and put solid motor mounts in.

  11. #71
    Member jsmith564`'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Well once I get my car up and running I am taking it to the base to try and get the bolt out and put solid motor mounts in.
    good luck on the motor mounts, yours might be more easy seeing as you're going solid. poly is another story.

    what brand headers are on you're car? i dont want to end up with a set like that

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsmith564` View Post
    good luck on the motor mounts, yours might be more easy seeing as you're going solid. poly is another story.

    what brand headers are on you're car? i dont want to end up with a set like that
    Obx. I think I am going to save up for kooks or American racing headers. That or a different eBay brand and make sure the headers are shaped right.

  13. #73
    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Obx. I think I am going to save up for kooks or American racing headers. That or a different eBay brand and make sure the headers are shaped right.
    My OBX's fit perfect and don't touch anything.

    I didn't have to undo my starter or the steering shaft to get them in.

    I would highly recommend these headers for price and fit.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by transamtom View Post
    My OBX's fit perfect and don't touch anything.

    I didn't have to undo my starter or the steering shaft to get them in.

    I would highly recommend these headers for price and fit.
    Well I have obx they fit great except the drivers side header is close to the drain plug.

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    how long does the finish last?

  16. #76
    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsmith564` View Post
    how long does the finish last?
    At least 2 months

    J/K I just put mine on in March.

    My friend has had his on for over 2 years and they still look great.

  17. #77
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I know it has been forever since I last replied to this thread but my drain plug issue is fixed now and I wanted to show how it was fixed. I got a custom made magnetic drain plug. The magnet on it is very powerful and it has great clearance. Here's some pictures:





    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
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  18. #78
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Good to hear. I like the magnetic drain plugs and I especially like those drain plug gaskets with the rubber O-ring made into them. Smart choice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat:2710736
    Good to hear. I like the magnetic drain plugs and I especially like those drain plug gaskets with the rubber O-ring made into them. Smart choice.
    Yeah I really like it so far it seems to seal better and fix the oil leak I had. But I haven't let my car idle yet to really see. It should definitely keep the oil cleaner by removing any metal fragments.

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