Oil Change Time!
This is a discussion on Oil Change Time! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; most likely no one will believe this but i was running 60 weight on my 01 M3 and was highly ...
06-14-2010, 11:32 AM #21
most likely no one will believe this but i was running 60 weight on my 01 M3 and was highly recommended to do so. Mobil 1 would just burn and would have to top it off every few days not suprising because it was that way in my camaro's as well. Now i use 10-30 Valvoline Synthetic and im very happy with it in my 01Z28. I might use PP with the factory filter but will see.
06-14-2010, 01:19 PM #22
0-30 wont hurt anything at all. Amsoil sso it good stuff
06-14-2010, 01:38 PM #23
06-14-2010, 05:31 PM #24
thanks for posting that article.. very good ,and he knows what he is talking about !! rkvette
06-14-2010, 06:24 PM #25
That make no sense at all! if nascar ran that light of an oil, by the time they would even get a pit stop all the oil would be burnt up.
And yes you are right about the thicker oils, it is harder to push through the oil pump which is exactly why we UPGRADE oil pumps.
10w30 or 20w50 would be perfect for an ls1 motor, and if its stroked i would run a straight 50 weight.
Does anybody agree with me or am i just the crazy one?
06-14-2010, 07:35 PM #26
I think you need an education in engine building and oil sciences. 10w30 is the same weight as 0-30, 5-30 and any 30 weight oil when heated to operating temp. so really you are not gaining anything between 5x30 and 10w30 other then cold starting pressures. the ported oil pumps are to flow more oil and maintain pressure when the oil gets hot and at the upper RPMS.
*puts the call to Sarge to educate us in the science of oils and lubrication*
06-14-2010, 10:45 PM #27
I ran Mobil 1 5w-30 on a Purolator Gold filter. Never had a issue. I ran Castrol Edge 5w-30 with the same filter and after hard driving i lose a little bit of oil pressure at idle where as the Mobil stayed at 40 ish at idle. Im going to be putting Mobil-1 back in at my next change.
06-14-2010, 11:25 PM #28
5w-30w here and wishing I could get 0w-30w
First number is cold start up, second is warm. Would never use 15w-50w or straight 50w in my car┌∩┐(◕_◕)┌∩┐
Man: The Mods you are fighting,
they are the biggest Men I have ever seen. I
wouldn't want to fight them!
Me: That is why no one will remember your name!
06-15-2010, 09:43 AM #29
06-15-2010, 10:58 AM #30
Dad runs 10w30 in an aprox 600horse 1972 LT1 in a 72 Chevelle and does just fine with it. Race oils are also formulated much differently then what you would buy off the shelf.
I really don't know how to explain this any better to you. But thicker oils create a parasitic drag on rotating parts eating horse power as well as it take more power to pump a thicker oil.
Alot of research has gone into what works with what set ups. If you are basing your ideas on what professional race teams run, think about the set up they use, they are not using stock factory motors but purpose built blocks. NASCARS use large core rads and oil coolers, they they only need the oil to last the race not 3 months.
NHRA Top fuel cars and so forth run a dry block ie no coolant and the sudden stresses put on the blocks mean they run high tolerances in the bearings and so forth, requiring a heaver oil to fill the spaces and cool the surfaces. Oil does more the just lubricate, it is also part of the cooling system of the engine.
06-15-2010, 01:05 PM #31
Misconceptions about motor oil
Car: 2004 Lamborghini Murcielago
Location: Sarasota, Florida
SAE Motor Oil Grade Used: 0W-20
Operating Conditions: "My wife is a high rev person, more than me, but she shifts. I sometimes run for a mile at top RPM in first gear. At other times I will run in top gear just idling at 35 MPH."
Test: The 0W-20 motor oil had Used Oil Analysis done at 1,800-miles. The wear numbers were found to be good.
Read the thread by clicking HERE
So case in point, here we have a 600 horsepower Lamborghini that runs hard on RPMs with 0W-20 motor oil in Florida and doesn't even come close to blowing up !!!!
Hopefully people will begin to put their misconceptions about motor oil behind them... Bring on the 0Ws!
Can we start putting misconceptions about motor oil behind us?
If anyone wants to know the specific motor oil viscosity of any given SAE grade, the SAE grade range chart can be found by CLICKING HERE.
What the SAE motor oil grade range chart tells us is how thick the motor oil GRADE is going to be at the given temperature of 100 degrees Celsius otherwise known as 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Why is 212 degrees Fahrenheit important? Because this is the given motor oil operating temperature of your car. Let’s just clarify to make sure everyone is on track. We're talking about MOTOR OIL operating temperature and not ENGINE COOLANT operating temperature, two different numbers.
Moving on. When we refer to 30-Grade, we’re referring to a motor oil that is 0W-30, 5W-30, or 10W-30.
As per the SAE Motor Oil Grade Range Chart posted in the link above, in order for a 30-Grade motor oil to be classified as a 30-Grade motor oil it has to have a viscosity in the range of 9.30 to 12.49 at the motor oil operating temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit.
Question: What is the viscosity of 10W-30 motor oil at 212 degrees Fahrenheit?
Answer: Between 9.30 to 12.49
Question: What is the viscosity of 5W-30 motor oil at 212 degrees Fahrenheit?
Answer: Between 9.30 to 12.49
Question: What is the viscosity of 0W-30 motor oil at 212 degrees Fahrenheit?
Answer: Between 9.30 to 12.49
So we see that an 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are all within the same grade range at engine operating temperature and all oils are required by SAE specs to provide the same protection. At operating temperature one is not THINNER than the other.
So for example, at engine operating temperature 0W-30 is the SAME thickness as 10W-30.
Or in other words, on a HOT 120 degree day in Phoenix Arizona, the 0W-30 is going to provide the SAME engine protection as the 10W-30 motor oil because again they are the SAME thickness.
So if a 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 is the SAME thickness at operating temperature, what makes them different? Anybody know the answer to this?
06-15-2010, 01:19 PM #32
The thickness at 0C or 32F and below.2002 WS.6, black - SLP air lid, UMI non adjustable panard and LCAs, Nitto 555
06-15-2010, 06:04 PM #33
Which is what they call 5 W= Winter 30 10 W=Winter 30
06-15-2010, 07:18 PM #34
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Madison, WI
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
- 2001 Silverado Z71
Anyone have an opinion/facts on the rumor(or maybe truth) about the greater the viscosity spread in a multi-weight oil, the less stable is it?
ie 0w30 is less stable then 10w30 because the viscosity spread is greater.
06-15-2010, 07:48 PM #35
Hah..im surprised my thread would bring up such a heated debate >_>
06-15-2010, 07:53 PM #36
Oil is big discussion here, for some reason. Dunno why when other forums I am part of are all on the royal purple bandwagon
06-15-2010, 07:54 PM #37
i still havent put it in...mobil 1 5w-30? lucas oil stabilizer? i already have the lucas oil stabilizer opened and stuff..so would it be benificial? or pass?1992 Black/Gold Bandit Style Firebird (Retired)
1998 Blue/Green Formy A4 (Gone)
2002 Dark Blue Trans Am A4 (Daily Drive)
06-15-2010, 07:56 PM #38
I don't think it would hurt any to add the lucas oil stuff, certainly alot better the others. And if you have the 5-30, go a head and use it, it won't hurt anything either.
06-15-2010, 07:56 PM #39
i can always take the mobil 1 back and get a "better one"?
P.S. - Also have a K&N Filter
06-15-2010, 08:02 PM #40
no, you will be fine. don't over think it or you will drive yourself nuts. I run q-state horsepower 5-30 (only because its what the store stocks where I get my filters, WIX), a K&N filter is good from what I heard, if a bit over priced.
Everyone has an opinion on what is the best and uses that, some follow what is popular never really coming to any conclusions. Others are just anal about it. If its a quality oil and you follow regular maintenance intervals, keep using what you are using.
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