Oh %*{#*= car won't start... Starter???

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 02:48 AM

Had this happen just once about 3 months ago where my car didn't start. No turning of the starter. Now it's Friday morning and I'm supposed to get off work early and here I am late for work because it won't start. Starter probably dead?? I hear fuel pump, just a click from ignition when turned but no crank..

Hard to swap? I tried hammering it to no avail.

**Knight** · 06-10-2011, 03:12 AM

Is your security light on? If so, it could be an issue with VATS. Otherwise, I would check for voltage at the starter, then the relay.

**Knight** · 06-10-2011, 03:31 AM

Here's a thread on disabling VATS if that turns out to be the issue - http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1429555

**jiveass** · 06-10-2011, 03:34 AM

battery?

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 03:41 AM

Thanks awesome threa that is! Can I find out the ohms by calling GM parts to punch the vin in etc?

Is this a fix for flashing security light? My light isn't flashing. I tried my spare key and no go as well. I'd imagine if It is a vats issue it's in the ign lock itself?

My first guess wouldn't be vats only because it happened 1x a dew months ago an hours later just fired and ran fine until this morning.

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 03:41 AM

Battery is at good voltage as usual headlights bright as day etc still.

**Smittro** · 06-10-2011, 03:49 AM

If you're not even getting a, "click" then I'd guess starter relay, or corroded/blown ingition fuse.. Try moving the steering column up and down trying to start it. Could be an issue in the column or ignition switch. After that you're pretty much down to, VATS, solenoid, connections, and starter motor as possible causes...

**Knight** · 06-10-2011, 03:51 AM

Many people have intermittant issues with starting due to VATS. The security light doen't always come on either.I don't think a GM parts dealer would be able to tell you the ohms by the VIN.

You could also check for voltage at the starter, while someone is turning the key. Obviously, be careful while doing so. If you have 12v, your starter is bad. If not, move to checking the starter relay.

**Smittro** · 06-10-2011, 03:53 AM

Originally Posted by Knight

Many people have intermittant issues with starting due to VATS. The security light doen't always come on either.I don't think a GM parts dealer would be able to tell you the ohms by the VIN.

You could also check for voltage at the starter, while someone is turning the key. Obviously, be careful while doing so. If you have 12v, your starter is bad. If not, move to checking the starter relay.

I also agree with this.

But would start @ the relay personally, you need 12v there first..

**SteveC** · 06-10-2011, 04:05 AM

An old timers trick is to have someone in the drivers seat turn the key to start the engine, while they are doing this, take a hammer and GENTLY start tapping the starter, if the vehice starts, then you know you have a bad bendix and need a new starter.

SteveC

**Knight** · 06-10-2011, 04:25 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

I also agree with this.

But would start @ the relay personally, you need 12v there first..

Either way works. For me, it's always the last thing I check that turns out to be bad....and I'd rather replace a relay than a starter

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 06:16 AM

My biggest problem here is I've never used a little electrical 'tester' or whatever it's called . Time to bust it out of the package... I let the car sit for the last hour going down to try now and will look for the security light. I did try swapping the 2 relays to see if id get a click.

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 06:37 AM

Ok my security light IS flashing the entire time !!! I guess I never really paid attention to it before but it is flashing indeed. Vats?

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 06:47 AM

I have this.. Enlighten me guys what do I do with it lol .. I can do almost anything to my car but electrical stuff never my forte

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 06:54 AM

I followeyhe instructions and got 9.53 settin the tester to 20k. What resistor do I need?

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 07:13 AM

I followed the sticky and with key in ign I get nothing from putting the tester to the 2 white wires on the plug. This must be vats no?? Off to ride my bike to get some resistors!!

Anyone tell me what resistor I need? I checked the spare keys and it's 9.49 it was 9.53 on my keys that I use. Setting on the meter was 20k

**Knight** · 06-10-2011, 07:24 AM

Originally Posted by 5abivt

I followed the sticky and with key in ign I get nothing from putting the tester to the 2 white wires on the plug. This must be vats no?? Off to ride my bike to get some resistors!!

Anyone tell me what resistor I need? I checked the spare keys and it's 9.49 it was 9.53 on my keys that I use. Setting on the meter was 20k

Get the resistor closest to the value of 9.5. I don't know what values the stores by you carry. If there is any question, get a few different (the closest higher and lower value) ones to try.

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 07:42 AM

ok guys im more confused now. I re-read the sticky and I was supposed to check the resistance from the connectors under the dash with the key in the ignition and not in the 'run' position. I tried that and still nothing.. BUT..

when I put the testers to the white/black stripe and white/purple stripe side of the connector.. I get a reading of -6.46

I get this with the key in OR out of the ignition. Still no reading of 9.49-9.53 on any wires though.

**jiveass** · 06-10-2011, 07:46 AM

isnt there a sticky about bypassing vats?

**5abivt** · 06-10-2011, 07:49 AM

ya im following it but i have readings for my keys and at the wires its different. just trying to get as much info as possible really

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