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This is a discussion on Not starting within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; that is exactly what i needed to see... i found a staple looking thing wrapped up in the zip ties ...

  1. #41
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    that is exactly what i needed to see... i found a staple looking thing wrapped up in the zip ties when i removed it so i guess thats where that goes..

    Thanks again guys!!!

  2. #42
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    i'm thinking mines messed up, i don't have anything for that staple looking thing to slide into... guess thats why it was zip tied before.... great

  3. #43
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    anyone have some tips on how to rig it up? lol... that staple won't go on it, there is nothing for it to fit into to hold it there, like someone said earlier the plastic tabs have broken off.. the zip ties that were on there before seemed to hold up well, i tried using saftey wire just now and i just can't get it tight enough to hold it in place... i guess i'm going to pick up some good strong zip ties and use those again for now...

    Theres always gotta be something!!! i want to drive the car so damn bad!!!

  4. #44
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tx98Formula View Post
    anyone have some tips on how to rig it up? lol... that staple won't go on it, there is nothing for it to fit into to hold it there, like someone said earlier the plastic tabs have broken off.. the zip ties that were on there before seemed to hold up well, i tried using saftey wire just now and i just can't get it tight enough to hold it in place... i guess i'm going to pick up some good strong zip ties and use those again for now...

    Theres always gotta be something!!! i want to drive the car so damn bad!!!
    Two small hose clamps should do the trick... One on either side of the bracket around the plastic cable gromet
    Last edited by Smittro; 06-08-2010 at 06:58 PM.
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  5. #45
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Here maybe this will help some..

    Last edited by Smittro; 06-08-2010 at 07:23 PM.

  6. #46
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    thats a good idea!! i'll give that a shot tomorrow, Thank you!

    oh by the way, they replaced the clutch i guess, inside of the starter and the solenoid. only cost me $65

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tx98Formula View Post
    thats a good idea!! i'll give that a shot tomorrow, Thank you!

    oh by the way, they replaced the clutch i guess, inside of the starter and the solenoid. only cost me $65
    Cool! I'm glad they got you going and did'nt sap you..

  8. #48
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    well i got the trans to work good enough for now, someone told me that i can buy that peice from GM for about $60, so here soon i'll do that so i can have it back to how it should be. Right now park doesn't fully engage and i have to kind of play with it to get it into neutral but it will work for now...

    But of course i do have another problem, i noticed it when i took the car down the street, i have no brakes! i had to use my ebrake to stop, luckly i didn't open her up to much but the little bit i did she seemed great! I got back and looked to see what was going on, everytime i step on the brakes, brake fluid sprays out from the distro block where the right front brake line comes out!! so i guess i have to play with that alittle and see whats going on, the wife is complaining about me having a day off of work and spending it with the car...

  9. #49
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    Try to tighten it, BUT DON'T FORCE IT. And if it still leaks, then you will have to flare a new piece of line. Keep us posted.

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    did you have some brake lines apart? You'll have to bleed them if you did.

  11. #51
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    ^^ Agree. It might be best to bleed the fronts anyway -- if fluid is leaking out, air can suck in. Ok to try it, but if you have any sponginess in the pedal after tightening the fitting get it bled.

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    when i pulled the motor out i had to disconnect the front brake lines from the distro block. Looking a little closer to that right front brake line(its the only one that doesn't screw in on the top of the distro block), it looks like its kind of cocked, there are only about 3-4 threads showing but it seems like its not quite flush, and i can move the line back and forth so i know its not tight enough, but i also can't tighten it anymore without really forcing it. I'll pull it back off tomorrow and see what is going on.

  13. #53
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    sounds like it may be cross threaded

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    i'm hoping not.. it went in pretty smooth.. if it is cross threaded what would be the best/easiest way to fix that?

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    I have sucessfully re-cross threaded straight and parallel. Line it up straight, put some pressure on it as you thread it in by hand as best as possible. If you get it started straight then use a wrench to force it in, keeping it straight as you go.
    It sometimes takes a lot of fiddling.

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    Cutlass -- what are the threads on our F-body brake lines? Any taper to them?

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Cutlass -- what are the threads on our F-body brake lines? Any taper to them?
    Not sure what the thread size is, but I could possibly look that up at work. Its possible that there are several sizes depending on fitting location (ie master cylinder, brake hose,etc) Any particular fitting you're looking for info on??
    And no there isn't any taper on brake line fittings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Not sure what the thread size is, but I could possibly look that up at work. Its possible that there are several sizes depending on fitting location (ie master cylinder, brake hose,etc) Any particular fitting you're looking for info on??
    And no there isn't any taper on brake line fittings.

    I was curious as they are definitely a bit different than what I am accustomed to seeing. Noticed that when I did my line lock install. The actual fittings are a lot "fatter".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I have sucessfully re-cross threaded straight and parallel. Line it up straight, put some pressure on it as you thread it in by hand as best as possible. If you get it started straight then use a wrench to force it in, keeping it straight as you go.
    It sometimes takes a lot of fiddling.
    that is actually what i did, as soon as i got home i went out there and started messing with it, made sure it was straight into the hole, and put a little force on it to get it started, went in stright and no more leak!!!

    i still need to bleed the brakes but i had noone around to give me a hand with that, i still took it around the block real quick since it did still have some brakes, the car is running great so far! the stall feels awesome, definatly no more dig races on these streets until i get some better tires! 40 used to be a complete dead spot, i punched it at 40 and it took off. I can't wait to get the brakes bled so i can really get out and drive this thing!!

    thanks again for the help guys!!!

  20. #60
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    One man bleeding tips.
    Gravity bleed - Google it if you don't know what it is
    or
    jam a pry bar or long extension or block of wood between the seat and brake pedal then go open a bleeder and close it. Rinse and repeat.

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