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No Start

This is a discussion on No Start within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Sooo, I decided to try cranking it today. It fired right up. The only thing I've done since the last ...

  1. #21
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    '68 Camaro RS, '11 Camaro

    Sooo, I decided to try cranking it today. It fired right up. The only thing I've done since the last time i tried it was unplug and reconnect the harness that goes through the body behind the back seat. I'm thinking I may have a bad wire inside the car somewhere. I think I'll pick up the Racetronix harness to bypass the whole factory unit.

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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    BRB, I'll grab my books and see what I can find. I assume the wiring is the same from 2000 to 2002.

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    The top right pic is the Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor connector. The scan cut off the heading.

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    '68 Camaro RS, '11 Camaro

    Thanks Jeff! I'm definetly chasing a ground issue. I want to make sure it's in the fuel pump wiring, and not some sensor, before I buy the Racetronix harness.

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    No problem. Let me know if you need anything else.

  7. #27
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    Will do. Maybe I'll take a ride out there and pick you up...lol

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    Jeff, it looks like the ground is shared by other systems. I'm assuming that's why it has a box that refers you to the ground distribution schematic? If that's the case, I also assume I can zero in a ground problem AFTER this area unless the other systems are malfunctioning. Man I hate schematics...

    ...also, nice that the O2 snesor is on the same page. I have an issue with one not going "ready" I have to hammer out to get through emissions.

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    G110 is the ground attached to the back of the left cylinder head.

    G305 is the ground bolted to the left rocker panel at the floor pan bar.

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    G110 grounds the following systems: Fuel pump relay, some PCM circuits, engine oil level switch, MAF, clutch pedal position - or - park neutral position switch, and traction control switch

    G305 grounds these: Fuel pump and sensor assembly, seat adjuster switch - driver, seat cushion air control module

  11. #31
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    Okay, I think the G110 is fine. I forgot that ground when I originally installed the engine. I have had issues with the TCS switch doing it's own thing, but I believe those were tune issues.

    The G305 may be the culprit. I'm the only one that ever drives the car so I never move the seat, and I wouldn't be adjusting the seat if it won't start anyway, but would be an easy test if I get another no start.

    Thanks again!

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    I just took a ride around the neighborhood, and the car ran fine. Brought it home, let it sit, then was able to fire it right up. I'm thinking the connector that pops through the rear floor was the issue.
    I scanned it with HPT, and did find two interesting codes. Clutch sensor and fuel pressure. Both of those are on the same g110 ground according to what Jeff posted. Of course it's the hardest bolt on the whole car to get to, and I'll have to wait till it cools down. I'll report back.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    You're getting close. This is progress.

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    So I've driven the car a number of times. No lights, no starting problems. I'm going to assume the plug at the rear of the car had some corrosion built up causes the ground issue. If I have any further issues, I'm just going to upgrade to the racetronix harness.

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    Well the gremlins came back the other day. I think was it happening, is the block in the rear firewall is heating up from the exhaust and the plug is coming loose. I only have a problem after the car is warmed up. The last time I had the car out it died while driving. This is the first time that's happened. I coasted into a lot, jiggled the plugs over the rear diff at the rear firewall, and the car fired back up.
    Has anyone ever had this issue? I have a loud mouth set-up, so there is no muffler over the diff. Does anyone make a plate that can screw/clamp over the harness to secure it?

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Could be heat-related. Is there anything broken? Like clips?

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    Pulled all the plugs out of the block yesterday, and a terminal on one of the plugs was a little discolored. It's a black wire, so I assume that was my ground issue. I cleaned it out with some alcohol, and made sure the prong was bent out enough to make contact. I swabbed all of the terminals in the block and they were pretty dirty. Hopefully this was the issue. We'll see.

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    Okay. Let us know. Maybe the prongs were bent too far out to make contact and combined with the car's vibrations, caused the connections to come loose?

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    if you have 12v at the pump and the pump is not running, check to see if you have 12v on the ground side of the pump if you do check with an ohm meter check from the pump to the battery ground. if that is ok then make a jumper wire to go from the pump to ground and see if the pump runs. you can have little to no resistance when checking with a ohm meter but the pump may still not work thats why you run a jumper wire! you can also check resistance in the pump and compare to a known good spec, (if you can find one) if the wire side is ok then it looks like you have a bad pump. did you replace the fuel filter when you replaced the pump? you should always do this. check these and report back
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    G110 is the ground attached to the back of the left cylinder head.
    Jeff, is that driver's side or passenger's? If it is driver's side is that the same ground you loosen when removing the AIR system?

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