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Next upgrade opinions...

This is a discussion on Next upgrade opinions... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I'm having trouble deciding what to do next on my 02 WS6. It has the LS6 intake stock, and I ...

  1. #1
    Member jag42420's Avatar
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    Next upgrade opinions...

    I'm having trouble deciding what to do next on my 02 WS6. It has the LS6 intake stock, and I have added an SLP lid. I intend to spend $1000-1500 on this upgrade package, and what the most power gain I can get. Nitrous is not an option, I know what it does to the inside of an engine. I'm looking at things like heads, cam, exhaust, computer, suspension...

    I'm looking at Pacesetter LTs ($415) with true duals behind them (or at least larger catback setup). I have to meet with my exhaust shop buddy to see what he'd charge for duals from the headers back, but I imagine it will be less than a y-pipe would cost. My SS Monte Carlo cost $300 for 2.5s with Flowmasters. Assuming this would cost about the same, exhaust upgrade would run about $700-750.

    I have considered a cam package ($650-750).

    I have considered a set of heads ($1100-1500).

    I looked at FAST 90mm intake & TB setups ($1100), but figure for the HP/$ ratio I'd be better off buying a cam or heads first.

    I don't think the gains of a handheld programmer would pay off as well as some good components would.

    I'm having a hard time deciding here...but am leaning toward the exhaust and cam route. It seems I would get the biggest gains there, followed by the heads and a tune next set of mods... Opinions?

  2. #2
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jag42420 View Post
    I'm having trouble deciding what to do next on my 02 WS6. It has the LS6 intake stock, and I have added an SLP lid. I intend to spend $1000-1500 on this upgrade package, and what the most power gain I can get. Nitrous is not an option, I know what it does to the inside of an engine. I'm looking at things like heads, cam, exhaust, computer, suspension...

    I'm looking at Pacesetter LTs ($415) with true duals behind them (or at least larger catback setup). I have to meet with my exhaust shop buddy to see what he'd charge for duals from the headers back, but I imagine it will be less than a y-pipe would cost. My SS Monte Carlo cost $300 for 2.5s with Flowmasters. Assuming this would cost about the same, exhaust upgrade would run about $700-750.

    I have considered a cam package ($650-750).

    I have considered a set of heads ($1100-1500).

    I looked at FAST 90mm intake & TB setups ($1100), but figure for the HP/$ ratio I'd be better off buying a cam or heads first.

    I don't think the gains of a handheld programmer would pay off as well as some good components would.

    I'm having a hard time deciding here...but am leaning toward the exhaust and cam route. It seems I would get the biggest gains there, followed by the heads and a tune next set of mods... Opinions?
    You are leaning in the right direction. I wouldn't consider the FAST 90/90 setup until you are heads/cam. Heads are always nice, but you won't see the full benefits of aftermarket heads until you upgrade the cam. I really haven't seen big enough gains from the Fast 90/90 setup on stock cubes to warrant the $$$$ for it. Handheld programmers are a joke IMO, get a real tune.

    The exhaust route would be first with some suspension mods(sub-frame connectors & lower control arms) and a cam next.

    Then follow that up with heads & tuning. You have the right steps in mind.

    I didnt see anywhere, so please excuse my ignorance if I missed it, what transmission are you?
    CCW SP 500s 18x10 275/35 18x11 295/35
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    Quote Originally Posted by konigandy6 View Post
    I'd rather be bi than full homo!!!!

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    i agree. Get the exhaust stuff done first. Gotta get the car breathing right or the stuff like a cam will be worthless

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    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Yepp Yepp, i would take a look at suspension, strut tower bar, subframe connectors, Lt's and ory or true dual set-up. Cam and a good tune and you should be plenty happy for a lil while.
    If its an a4 i would look at a stall also.
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    Member jag42420's Avatar
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    Sorry, it's an A4. I have a traction problem too. From 40 if I punch the gas it burns out immediately, and forget much gas off takeoff. I assume some of that will be corrected with better tires. Tires are coming soon, money is already there just looking to burn these off . The car has 17k on it, and the tires are like new but slightly dry rotted from lack of use. I put new ones (stock Eagle F1-GS) on the front already, but thought i'd have some fun with the rears before replacing them. They'll either be street drag radials, or something with more tread width on the road than the stockers. I don't like the idea of wheel spin, I'd rather it be transferred to acceleration.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    With you being an auto tranny(A4) that changes things a little. Here is how I prefer to mod auto cars:

    1. Lid
    2. Longtubes & supporting exhaust
    3. Sub frame connectors, possibly lower control arms
    4. Stall convertor & cooler, possibly shift kit
    5. LS6 intake(if necessary)
    6. Cam & supporting components
    7. Tuning

    You really need a stall that matches up with your cam. It gets you into your power band sooner and allows the car to idle. If you just install a cam without a convertor, you are basically making a dyno queen. It will show a high peak HP #, but by the time you get into the power band, the opponent is gone

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    With you being an auto tranny(A4) that changes things a little. Here is how I prefer to mod auto cars:

    4. Stall convertor & cooler, possibly shift kit
    1. Lid
    2. Longtubes & supporting exhaust
    3. Sub frame connectors, possibly lower control arms
    5. LS6 intake(if necessary)
    6. Cam & supporting components
    7. Tuning

    You really need a stall that matches up with your cam. It gets you into your power band sooner and allows the car to idle. If you just install a cam without a convertor, you are basically making a dyno queen. It will show a high peak HP #, but by the time you get into the power band, the opponent is gone

    fixed

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    Member jag42420's Avatar
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    Doesn't seem much different in theory than modding any other car. I've modded several cars, including my 79 Z28 and 87 & 88 SS Monte Carlos, but this is my first LS1 F-Body. My general theory is exhaust system, intake components, suspension, brakes, tranny, cam, heads, etc.

    Does anyone know the approx stock stall speed? What size is recommended for street performance? 3000/3500?

    I know GM cammed down the 01-02 LS1s to compensate for the LS6 intake and going back to 28# injectors, but I don't know the specs. Will the stock cam work with a 3000/3500 stall? I know the 01/02 stock cam makes more power in the lower ranges.

  9. #9
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jag42420 View Post
    Doesn't seem much different in theory than modding any other car. I've modded several cars, including my 79 Z28 and 87 & 88 SS Monte Carlos, but this is my first LS1 F-Body. My general theory is exhaust system, intake components, suspension, brakes, tranny, cam, heads, etc.

    Does anyone know the approx stock stall speed? What size is recommended for street performance? 3000/3500?

    I know GM cammed down the 01-02 LS1s to compensate for the LS6 intake and going back to 28# injectors, but I don't know the specs. Will the stock cam work with a 3000/3500 stall? I know the 01/02 stock cam makes more power in the lower ranges.
    3500 is a good street & strip stall. I wouldn't go any smaller than 3500.

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