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This is a discussion on Next Mod? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; A full brake upgrade is almost a must on our cars. I went with Russell stainless lines, R1 Concepts slotted ...

  1. #21
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    A full brake upgrade is almost a must on our cars. I went with Russell stainless lines, R1 Concepts slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Made a world of difference in how our car stops.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tatertot91 View Post
    What do you want most out of the car? Horsepower, handling, appearance?
    Besides the intake which I find a bit high those prices seem fair in my opinion. Granted for everyone that is looking at it saying it's a ripoff isn't looking at it from a shops point of view, labor isn't cheap and if the shop is trustworthy it might be worth the piece of mind.
    I would personally keep on the lookout for an intake, they are a $350 part all day long. If you have a basic understanding of tools and mechanics it's a fairly easy install but if you're set on the shop so be it.
    Springs would be my second choice in that list but as the car gets lower as you said, the geometry of other components change as well. Factor in a front end alignment, panhard bar, and an adjustable torque arm if you want to keep your pinion angle in check and your total just went up.
    Everything you said is constantly on my mind when choosing next parts. It's looking like the LS6 is going to be the one, I think.

    As far as what I want? I want to get rid of what's lame on the car, and install what's awesome. I'd like to clear 400 horsepower at the crank without endangering the drivetrain components (will likely have a 12-bolt before I make it past 400). I want the car to be a subtle as possible in appearance (even under the hood). Handling is a huge priority, but I also feel that it needs just a little more power. I'd like a stronger pull in the higher RPM range, in particular.

    My wishlist is at the bottom of this post.

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Since I'm not a huge fan of most of the aftermarket suspension stuff, your list didn't appeal to me.
    However I would certainly do an LS6 intake, and afterwards look into getting a tune. These 2 changes would make a nice improvement in power and likely pickup a little economy.
    I'd consider a mail order tune from Frost, turn around is pretty quick. Since you are having Sean do the work you could look at this a couple ways. I'd bet he likely has a spare computer laying around or knows someone who does. Stick that in the car while yours is out getting tuned by Frost. After 2-3 days swap yours back in and give Sean his computer back. Might be able to avoid down time that way.
    Another possibility is to just get your tune through Sean, he would probably have Nick tune it on the local dyno down there, and shouldn't take long at all. With your mild mods he would probably load a base file that's close and tweak it with just a few pulls.
    That would certainly be nice if I could get a loaner. But it might be cheaper/less hassle all around to just have it tuned locally.

    As for the suspension stuff, I've been "hooked" ever since my SFCs went on the car. The sway bars made a distinct improvment as well. I'd like the springs to "finish off" the suspension, but as has been stated earlier, I'd need to think about the alignment/driveline at that ponit.

    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    A full brake upgrade is almost a must on our cars. I went with Russell stainless lines, R1 Concepts slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Made a world of difference in how our car stops.
    The brakes are an item I'm really interested in improving. I've got the Hawk pads on there. But I'm not sure if I want to go with a big break kit or not. I've been thinking about just getting slotted or drilled roters (probably slotted, since it's a daily) and some good lines. Calipers tend to be the expensive component... so I've pushed that lower on the list.

    Wish list:

    Engine
    Air Lid, P/P TB, LS6, 243s, Custom Billet Cam, Kooks LTs/Catted-Y, Magnaflow Exhaust (and maybe some external bolt ons such as UD pulley or water pump... but we'll see).

    Drivetrain
    Fidanza Flywheel, LS7 or Stage 2 Clutch, Stage 2 T56, PST Driveshaft, Moser 12-Bolt, C5 Aluminum Wheels

    Chassis/Suspension/Brakes
    SFCs, STB, Torque Arm Relocation Bracket, Strano Sway Bars, Strano Springs, Koni Shocks, Stoptech Brake Kit w/SS lines, K-Member (not sure if I want the noisey A-arms), Rear LCAs

    Appearance
    Front/Side Splitters, and maybe the 6LE Front Bumper, 6LE Rear Valence, and I've toyed around with the idea of an SS CF or FRP hood coloer matched to my car (Cayenne), but I'm not sure I want that.
    Last edited by Naaman; 01-05-2014 at 10:24 PM.

  3. #23
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Oh, you don't have a lid? That is the best bang for buck mod for the M6. For the auto, a good convertor would be first, followed by a lid. Take one SLP lid, call us in a week... J/K. But, seriously, though, do a LID..

  4. #24
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    LOL!!! I edited the post. Everything in italics, I already have. It's just part of my "build."

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    As for the suspension stuff, I've been "hooked" ever since my SFCs went on the car. The sway bars made a distinct improvment as well. I'd like the springs to "finish off" the suspension, but as has been stated earlier, I'd need to think about the alignment/driveline at that ponit.



    The brakes are an item I'm really interested in improving. I've got the Hawk pads on there. But I'm not sure if I want to go with a big break kit or not. I've been thinking about just getting slotted or drilled roters (probably slotted, since it's a daily) and some good lines. Calipers tend to be the expensive component... so I've pushed that lower on the list.
    If you've done sway bars already then by all means do springs and shocks too. They all work hand in hand. Not knocking that at all, it was just never a priority for me. Since I primarily drive 40 year old muscle cars 70% of the time, some on bias ply tires and drum brakes, that when I occasionally jump in my wifes 4th gen with stock suspension it feels like a slot car to me So I just never felt the need to upgrade anything, and a good possibility I never will. It's just all a matter of what you get used to

    When I did brakes on the car, I did go with slotted/drilled rotors and a nice set of pads all around. Wasn't necessarily looking for better braking performance per say, I mainly did that because they were cheaper than blanks at the local store (of which I had wickid warpage problems with on 3 sets) the drilled and slotted rotors cured that. And I wanted coated rotors so I didn't have to look at rusty rotors through very visible wheels.

  6. #26
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    What size wheels do you have on your car? The reason I ask is if you have 18" or bigger you can bolt on ctsv calipers with z06 14" rotors. That or you could grind them down a bit and they will fit under 17" wheels. Here is what I have on my car, which I plan on grinding them to fit under 17" wheels:





    Here's the test fitting of stock 17" wheels to the car over the ctsv brakes:





    This kit is a big bang for your buck as far as big brakes go. It cost around $600 for the whole kit that I pieced together.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 01-07-2014 at 07:33 AM.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
    421 LQ9 14.8:1 on E85 Build/

  7. #27
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Looks like the 17" wheel fit fine without grinding....

    Neat upgrade for those that want to road race or autocross.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    If you've done sway bars already then by all means do springs and shocks too. They all work hand in hand. Not knocking that at all, it was just never a priority for me. Since I primarily drive 40 year old muscle cars 70% of the time, some on bias ply tires and drum brakes, that when I occasionally jump in my wifes 4th gen with stock suspension it feels like a slot car to me So I just never felt the need to upgrade anything, and a good possibility I never will. It's just all a matter of what you get used to

    When I did brakes on the car, I did go with slotted/drilled rotors and a nice set of pads all around. Wasn't necessarily looking for better braking performance per say, I mainly did that because they were cheaper than blanks at the local store (of which I had wickid warpage problems with on 3 sets) the drilled and slotted rotors cured that. And I wanted coated rotors so I didn't have to look at rusty rotors through very visible wheels.
    Agreed. After driving around in my wife's SUV, my Camaro feels like a Ferrari.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Looks like the 17" wheel fit fine without grinding....

    Neat upgrade for those that want to road race or autocross.
    The top of the calipers barely touches the wheel. So it just needs a touch up.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Went over to Keith's house last weekend and did the oil change and fuel filter. We also installed a Fernco... not sure I notice a difference, but, it doesn't hurt, either, so what the heck?

    After I made a mess on his driveway pulling my oil filter (it had been a while since I'd been under a car... forgot how hot the oil was after a 20 mile drive.... ), I tried to tighten up my SFCs/LCAs, but could not get a good angle on the bolts/nuts lying under the car.

    Later that day, I tried getting at the windows, but could not get the interior panel off because I couldn't get the little plastic speaker cover off (to gain access to the speaker) without breaking it. I was able to look inside the door, though, and it appears someone has been in there before because some of the tabs that hold the panel in place are broken.

    It's looking like I'm going to order an intake manifold and do that instead of all the maintenance, now that I saved the cash on all that labor. Will probably still have doors/windows done professionally, though.

  11. #31
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Will, do you have a part number for those calipers?

  12. #32
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    Do you plan on getting rid of the Cadillac nomenclature? That would annoy the living hell out of me. Same with people who have Corvette FRC's on a TransAm or Camaro. That would never happen on my car lol.
    It's on jackstands.

  13. #33
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Do you plan on getting rid of the Cadillac nomenclature? That would annoy the living hell out of me. Same with people who have Corvette FRC's on a TransAm or Camaro. That would never happen on my car lol.
    Yes I do when I get them powder coated a WS.6 is going in its place.

    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Will, do you have a part number for those calipers?
    Not on hand but I'll check it when I get home.

  14. #34
    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Will, do you have a part number for those calipers?
    89047726 and 89047727 for the front calipers. I found them for $160ish each on gmpartsdirect.com.

  15. #35
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    I run 6k HIDs in my low beams and I'm happy. I have friends who live in dark sections of the towns they live in and I need the extra light. Also, I can see deer better at night. When I had my OEM bulbs in, I couldn't see a damn thing. I could only see about thirty feet ahead of me. With the HIDs, I can see about a quarter of a mile ahead.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Went over to Keith's house last weekend and did the oil change and fuel filter. After I made a mess on his driveway pulling my oil filter
    Don't worry about it, the stains are so faint now, I am not even going to worry about it, you are welcome here anytime.

  17. #37
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    It's looking like I'm going to order an intake manifold and do that instead of all the maintenance, now that I saved the cash on all that labor.
    If you want some help, let me know.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    I run 6k HIDs in my low beams and I'm happy. I have friends who live in dark sections of the towns they live in and I need the extra light. Also, I can see deer better at night. When I had my OEM bulbs in, I couldn't see a damn thing. I could only see about thirty feet ahead of me. With the HIDs, I can see about a quarter of a mile ahead.
    I like the idea of seeing better at night, getting old and don't see as well, especially my wife, she hates driving at night. I've always been interested in some nice bright white HID's. However when I changed the headlights in my wifes 4th gen due to hazing, the new lights were so bright that when on a 2 lane dark road we occasionally get flashed the high beams as it is, and these are just stock headlights (albiet new). I think the HID's would make that worse.

    I'd still like a set for her car and my truck though. Where did you find your HID's? Any stores local carry them yet?

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    Yes I do when I get them powder coated a WS.6 is going in its place.
    I would be very interested in seeing pics and what you do exactly to prep them when time comes. I have some "Camaro" stickers I would like to add to my OEM calipers come spring time once my new R1 Concept rotors and HPS pads get installed.

    Do you already have the stickers? If so, what color are they? That will really look nice I think!

  20. #40
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I like the idea of seeing better at night, getting old and don't see as well, especially my wife, she hates driving at night. I've always been interested in some nice bright white HID's. However when I changed the headlights in my wifes 4th gen due to hazing, the new lights were so bright that when on a 2 lane dark road we occasionally get flashed the high beams as it is, and these are just stock headlights (albiet new). I think the HID's would make that worse.

    I'd still like a set for her car and my truck though. Where did you find your HID's? Any stores local carry them yet?
    I bought mine from a vendor at the NY Auto Show last year. 35 watt, 6K bulbs. I don't really get flashed much. When you had yours in, did you aim your headlights down a little? I have heard when fitting HIDs in place of the OEM bulbs, you have to aim the beams down a little.

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