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New motor break in....

This is a discussion on New motor break in.... within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Well....402ci iron block..forged bottom end...heads/cam/nitrous... 1. What oil? 2. When is the first oil change? 3. How do I drive ...

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    New motor break in....

    Well....402ci iron block..forged bottom end...heads/cam/nitrous...
    1. What oil?
    2. When is the first oil change?
    3. How do I drive it ( Grandma or like I stole it) and for how long before I nail that black bitch to the floor.

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    I'm out there so hide!!!! D!ck's Avatar
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    there is this crazy old fucker. i ask questions like that to

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    cuz i dont know shit

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    Tech Junkie hammertime's Avatar
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    Sarge,

    You know more about oil than a lot of us, but I think you are asking for opinions, so here's mine.

    Break in with dino oil of your choosing. Drive it like grandma with a few exceptions.

    Try to load the engine at low rpms to aid the rings in seating.
    Try to vary engine speeds in a range from 1500 - 3000 rpms to keep the oil flowing on different parts of the engine - basically, avoid any highway cruise at one speed.

    First oil change at 500 miles, after which you should run the car progressively harder. WOT for short streches (a few seconds, say 2nd & 3r gear, no more) should be ok. After 1000 miles have passed, let her have it. Second oil change after 1500 miles, changing to the synthetic oil of your choice.

    But, that's just my opinion.
    Hammer - hammertime.us
    2001 Light Pewter Metallic Camaro SS, 6 speed
    K&N, SLP Lid, SLP y-pipe, GMMG cat-back, Lou's Short Stick - more to come!

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I am currently in the process of breaking in my 402 iron blocked motor.

    Although I am having tune issues.....
    But these are the practices I am following.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino from AutoZone.
    First 15-20 minutes of runtime. Drain.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino....
    250 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino....
    500 miles. Drain.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino....
    1000 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    5w-30 of any good name brand dino.
    2000 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    5w-30 of any good name brand dino.
    3000 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    5w-30 of your favorite synthetic.....
    From then on...3000/3 months.


    The nice thing about that ValuCraft dino is it is CHEAP!! $1.09 a quart. So changing it a little more frequently than most isn't a problem.

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Good stuff guys....thank you...I was curious of various methodolgies that people use....very good info again thanks fella's.....anybody else?
    I am also of the mindset to run and hour or so drain/filter and refill...then a few hundred miles and repeat...Curious Mr. Luos why you went iron block....I had some arguments and went iron block myself...curious of your rational....mine was very simple....rigidity....heat....strength...hell the weight difference was only like 70lbs...and I can damn near get that back by relocating the battery to the rear.....what about you...

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    i agree with lous method..maybe not as frequent and after the first 1k id start to use a synthetic motor oil. Id also tune it a bit rich just to reduce the chance of detonation....ive been reading a few things about the 402 from slp and bad pistons.

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninobrn99
    i agree with lous method..maybe not as frequent and after the first 1k id start to use a synthetic motor oil. Id also tune it a bit rich just to reduce the chance of detonation....ive been reading a few things about the 402 from slp and bad pistons.
    Fuck SLP in the eye socket man...no shit....cheap ass bullshit parts...and they are not standing behind them....regardless of what their website sez....fuck that....bottom line is if your hot rodding and think you can go fast cheap your dead ass wrong....I could get a SLP 402 iron block for like $3500....I got one for $4300...but guess what...it is quality with a complete build sheet.....
    Pat Robertson sez SLP is the DEVIL and is gonna burn in hell for all eternity......or some such shit I dunno...

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge
    Curious Mr. Luos why you went iron block....I had some arguments and went iron block myself...curious of your rational....mine was very simple....rigidity....heat....strength...hell the weight difference was only like 70lbs...and I can damn near get that back by relocating the battery to the rear.....what about you...
    Battery is staying up front.
    A/C came off. Never used it anyways. Plus it almost makes up for the weight difference.

    I went iron for a couple reasons.....
    Price. Cheaper at the time I purchased from TSP by $250. (March 2005)
    Weight. Didn't figure it a problem with the A/C being removed.
    Heat. I don't like the heat characteristics of the iron block, but with the 160 thermostat and tune to support it...should be okay. Keep those fans on.
    Strength....better than aluminum if I ever boost it. Which I plan on doing someday......
    2008 Trailblazer SS
    Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
    Lowered, HID's, tinted.

    1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
    531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.

  10. #10
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    And the whole SLP deal....
    For the SAME price as the SLP POS...I got a TSP motor.
    LQ9 402.
    Lunati Pro Mod rods.
    Mahle -12cc full dish pistons.
    Mahle rings.
    Eagle forged crank.
    Etc...

    And TSP will back their motor. Unlike SLP...who can't back an oil pump.
    Hopefully you understand that link Sarge.

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    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
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    i agree..they're shit! ive got a slp knob for my shifter, but that was given to me from a friend

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
    And the whole SLP deal....
    For the SAME price as the SLP POS...I got a TSP motor.
    LQ9 402.
    Lunati Pro Mod rods.
    Mahle -12cc full dish pistons.
    Mahle rings.
    Eagle forged crank.
    Etc...

    And TSP will back their motor. Unlike SLP...who can't back an oil pump.
    Hopefully you understand that link Sarge.
    We got the same motor...

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Nice!!

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    402CID Stroker iron block
    Eagle Crank (balanced)
    Eagle Rods
    ARP Rod Bolts
    JE Pistons
    Mahre Ring Packs
    Double Roller Timing Chain

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Mine is close to that.

    But I am having some serious tune issues right now. Trying to work them out...
    Shooting fire out the rear and backfiring on accel sucks.

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that Bro....you'll get em worked out.....I'm lucky...I got the TOP tuner in the country in Allen Nelson...he is overseeing everything down to the last detail....boy tunes more bowtie go fast cars than anyone on the planet...all STS turbo GM cars/trucks come with a Allen Nelson tune....
    www.nelsonperformance.com boy knows his shit....I was at the shop all day with Allen...he is looking for 525-550 RWHP all motor...then the 200 shot may help just a tad You really should give Allen a call....he helps folks on the phone all day...real decent guy....

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge
    Sorry to hear that Bro....you'll get em worked out.....I'm lucky...I got the TOP tuner in the country in Allen Nelson...he is overseeing everything down to the last detail....boy tunes more bowtie go fast cars than anyone on the planet...all STS turbo GM cars/trucks come with a Allen Nelson tune....
    www.nelsonperformance.com boy knows his shit....I was at the shop all day with Allen...he is looking for 525-550 RWHP all motor...then the 200 shot may help just a tad You really should give Allen a call....he helps folks on the phone all day...real decent guy....
    It happens.
    There is a very good tuner quite local to me here as well. They actually put a base break-in tune on it for me...although checking out some other HPTuners .bin files....there are some things that even I am noticing.
    Mine just appears to be drowning itself out. Gonna data log it tomorrow a couple times to see what I can see.
    I know data logging at idle/rev isn't very accurate...but so far everything looks good mechanically.
    Sounds menacing at least....
    http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/secondstart.wmv

    And everything looks pretty good under the hood....

  18. #18
    lee1rbc
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    break it in slow, runs slow. Break it in fast runs fast.

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