Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,128
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    New motor break in....

    Well....402ci iron block..forged bottom end...heads/cam/nitrous...
    1. What oil?
    2. When is the first oil change?
    3. How do I drive it ( Grandma or like I stole it) and for how long before I nail that black bitch to the floor.

  2. #2
    I'm out there so hide!!!! D!ck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    TULSA, OK
    Posts
    1,140

    Black & Brilliant Silver
    1999&1997 SL600 6.0 V12's

    there is this crazy old fucker. i ask questions like that to

  3. #3
    I'm out there so hide!!!! D!ck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    TULSA, OK
    Posts
    1,140

    Black & Brilliant Silver
    1999&1997 SL600 6.0 V12's

    cuz i dont know shit

  4. #4
    Tech Junkie hammertime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Belleville, IL
    Posts
    400

    Pewter Metallic
    2001 Camaro SS

    Sarge,

    You know more about oil than a lot of us, but I think you are asking for opinions, so here's mine.

    Break in with dino oil of your choosing. Drive it like grandma with a few exceptions.

    Try to load the engine at low rpms to aid the rings in seating.
    Try to vary engine speeds in a range from 1500 - 3000 rpms to keep the oil flowing on different parts of the engine - basically, avoid any highway cruise at one speed.

    First oil change at 500 miles, after which you should run the car progressively harder. WOT for short streches (a few seconds, say 2nd & 3r gear, no more) should be ok. After 1000 miles have passed, let her have it. Second oil change after 1500 miles, changing to the synthetic oil of your choice.

    But, that's just my opinion.
    Hammer - hammertime.us
    2001 Light Pewter Metallic Camaro SS, 6 speed
    K&N, SLP Lid, SLP y-pipe, GMMG cat-back, Lou's Short Stick - more to come!

  5. #5
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,773

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    I am currently in the process of breaking in my 402 iron blocked motor.

    Although I am having tune issues.....
    But these are the practices I am following.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino from AutoZone.
    First 15-20 minutes of runtime. Drain.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino....
    250 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino....
    500 miles. Drain.

    10w-30 ValuCraft dino....
    1000 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    5w-30 of any good name brand dino.
    2000 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    5w-30 of any good name brand dino.
    3000 miles. Drain. Change filter.

    5w-30 of your favorite synthetic.....
    From then on...3000/3 months.


    The nice thing about that ValuCraft dino is it is CHEAP!! $1.09 a quart. So changing it a little more frequently than most isn't a problem.

  6. #6
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,128
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    Good stuff guys....thank you...I was curious of various methodolgies that people use....very good info again thanks fella's.....anybody else?
    I am also of the mindset to run and hour or so drain/filter and refill...then a few hundred miles and repeat...Curious Mr. Luos why you went iron block....I had some arguments and went iron block myself...curious of your rational....mine was very simple....rigidity....heat....strength...hell the weight difference was only like 70lbs...and I can damn near get that back by relocating the battery to the rear.....what about you...

  7. #7
    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Honolulu HI
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,486

    Pewter
    all bore 370 Trans Am

    i agree with lous method..maybe not as frequent and after the first 1k id start to use a synthetic motor oil. Id also tune it a bit rich just to reduce the chance of detonation....ive been reading a few things about the 402 from slp and bad pistons.

  8. #8
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,128
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    Quote Originally Posted by ninobrn99
    i agree with lous method..maybe not as frequent and after the first 1k id start to use a synthetic motor oil. Id also tune it a bit rich just to reduce the chance of detonation....ive been reading a few things about the 402 from slp and bad pistons.
    Fuck SLP in the eye socket man...no shit....cheap ass bullshit parts...and they are not standing behind them....regardless of what their website sez....fuck that....bottom line is if your hot rodding and think you can go fast cheap your dead ass wrong....I could get a SLP 402 iron block for like $3500....I got one for $4300...but guess what...it is quality with a complete build sheet.....
    Pat Robertson sez SLP is the DEVIL and is gonna burn in hell for all eternity......or some such shit I dunno...

  9. #9
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,773

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge
    Curious Mr. Luos why you went iron block....I had some arguments and went iron block myself...curious of your rational....mine was very simple....rigidity....heat....strength...hell the weight difference was only like 70lbs...and I can damn near get that back by relocating the battery to the rear.....what about you...
    Battery is staying up front.
    A/C came off. Never used it anyways. Plus it almost makes up for the weight difference.

    I went iron for a couple reasons.....
    Price. Cheaper at the time I purchased from TSP by $250. (March 2005)
    Weight. Didn't figure it a problem with the A/C being removed.
    Heat. I don't like the heat characteristics of the iron block, but with the 160 thermostat and tune to support it...should be okay. Keep those fans on.
    Strength....better than aluminum if I ever boost it. Which I plan on doing someday......
    2008 Trailblazer SS
    Yank PTB3600, Kooks 1 7/8" LT's, 4" intake, E-fans, Magnaflow, Sonnax kit, tranny cooler, tune.
    Lowered, HID's, tinted.

    1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747 SOLD
    531.1 RWHP 481.3 FT/Pounds all motor.

  10. #10
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,773

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    And the whole SLP deal....
    For the SAME price as the SLP POS...I got a TSP motor.
    LQ9 402.
    Lunati Pro Mod rods.
    Mahle -12cc full dish pistons.
    Mahle rings.
    Eagle forged crank.
    Etc...

    And TSP will back their motor. Unlike SLP...who can't back an oil pump.
    Hopefully you understand that link Sarge.

  11. #11
    Senior Member ninobrn99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Honolulu HI
    Age
    41
    Posts
    2,486

    Pewter
    all bore 370 Trans Am

    i agree..they're shit! ive got a slp knob for my shifter, but that was given to me from a friend

  12. #12
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,128
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
    And the whole SLP deal....
    For the SAME price as the SLP POS...I got a TSP motor.
    LQ9 402.
    Lunati Pro Mod rods.
    Mahle -12cc full dish pistons.
    Mahle rings.
    Eagle forged crank.
    Etc...

    And TSP will back their motor. Unlike SLP...who can't back an oil pump.
    Hopefully you understand that link Sarge.
    We got the same motor...

  13. #13
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,773

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    Nice!!

  14. #14
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,128
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    402CID Stroker iron block
    Eagle Crank (balanced)
    Eagle Rods
    ARP Rod Bolts
    JE Pistons
    Mahre Ring Packs
    Double Roller Timing Chain

  15. #15
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,773

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    Mine is close to that.

    But I am having some serious tune issues right now. Trying to work them out...
    Shooting fire out the rear and backfiring on accel sucks.

  16. #16
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Texas Department of Corrections
    Posts
    18,128
    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    Sorry to hear that Bro....you'll get em worked out.....I'm lucky...I got the TOP tuner in the country in Allen Nelson...he is overseeing everything down to the last detail....boy tunes more bowtie go fast cars than anyone on the planet...all STS turbo GM cars/trucks come with a Allen Nelson tune....
    www.nelsonperformance.com boy knows his shit....I was at the shop all day with Allen...he is looking for 525-550 RWHP all motor...then the 200 shot may help just a tad You really should give Allen a call....he helps folks on the phone all day...real decent guy....

  17. #17
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Thornton, CO
    Posts
    23,773

    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge
    Sorry to hear that Bro....you'll get em worked out.....I'm lucky...I got the TOP tuner in the country in Allen Nelson...he is overseeing everything down to the last detail....boy tunes more bowtie go fast cars than anyone on the planet...all STS turbo GM cars/trucks come with a Allen Nelson tune....
    www.nelsonperformance.com boy knows his shit....I was at the shop all day with Allen...he is looking for 525-550 RWHP all motor...then the 200 shot may help just a tad You really should give Allen a call....he helps folks on the phone all day...real decent guy....
    It happens.
    There is a very good tuner quite local to me here as well. They actually put a base break-in tune on it for me...although checking out some other HPTuners .bin files....there are some things that even I am noticing.
    Mine just appears to be drowning itself out. Gonna data log it tomorrow a couple times to see what I can see.
    I know data logging at idle/rev isn't very accurate...but so far everything looks good mechanically.
    Sounds menacing at least....
    http://home.comcast.net/~mrluos/secondstart.wmv

    And everything looks pretty good under the hood....

  18. #18
    lee1rbc
    Guest
    break it in slow, runs slow. Break it in fast runs fast.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Engine Break-In Guide - Break-In Without Breakin'
    By Ed Blown Vert in forum Firebird / WS6
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-17-2011, 09:40 AM
  2. check out this break dancer break
    By pecha in forum Almost Anything Goes
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-23-2009, 09:20 PM
  3. T56's like to break?
    By 570SX in forum Manual Transmission
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 08-17-2008, 01:28 PM
  4. Replies: 20
    Last Post: 08-24-2007, 05:57 PM
  5. how long should i break in my motor?
    By astyles in forum General Help
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-01-2006, 11:38 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •