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The Never Ending Lean Bank 2 Saga........

This is a discussion on The Never Ending Lean Bank 2 Saga........ within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; If the pressure is fine (55-60psi). Then I would continue looking for vaccuum and exhaust leaks. As a last resort ...

  1. #41
    Member 88gtman's Avatar
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    If the pressure is fine (55-60psi). Then I would continue looking for vaccuum and exhaust leaks. As a last resort maybe find someone who has a working MAF that you can try swapping in. (It would be a long shot.). If all that is good then I am clueless.

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    Experienced Old Fart jfl330's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88gtman View Post
    If the pressure is fine (55-60psi). Then I would continue looking for vaccuum and exhaust leaks. As a last resort maybe find someone who has a working MAF that you can try swapping in. (It would be a long shot.). If all that is good then I am clueless.
    Already ruled out vacuum and/or exhaust leaks. Already swapped in 2 other MAF's, same results.

  3. #43
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    sorry to hear that didn't fix your problem. It sounds like you've checked pretty much everything mechanical. Fuel pressure should be checked but that's a long shot. It sounds like you're getting plenty of fuel if it's fouling plugs on that side. I quickly glanced back through the thread because I thought you said you had hptuners but I didn't see that post....could've a different thread I'm thinking of. I'm quickly running out of ideas myself. It'd be nice to have the car here so I could get hands on it. Did you look at that exhaust manifold for a crack or ANY signs of leaking before the front O2? Any sooty spots on it or around your a.i.r. connection? Been a while since I've even seen a stock manifold but I know on headers I've seen that air pipe stand crack at the base. After that I would start chasing that front O2's harness to check for burns or a spot that it's chaffed or something. After that I'd pull the connectors on the pcm and look for corrosion. Good luck and keep us updated.

  4. #44
    Experienced Old Fart jfl330's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    sorry to hear that didn't fix your problem. It sounds like you've checked pretty much everything mechanical. Fuel pressure should be checked but that's a long shot. It sounds like you're getting plenty of fuel if it's fouling plugs on that side. I quickly glanced back through the thread because I thought you said you had hptuners but I didn't see that post....could've a different thread I'm thinking of. I'm quickly running out of ideas myself. It'd be nice to have the car here so I could get hands on it. Did you look at that exhaust manifold for a crack or ANY signs of leaking before the front O2? Any sooty spots on it or around your a.i.r. connection? Been a while since I've even seen a stock manifold but I know on headers I've seen that air pipe stand crack at the base. After that I would start chasing that front O2's harness to check for burns or a spot that it's chaffed or something. After that I'd pull the connectors on the pcm and look for corrosion. Good luck and keep us updated.
    I got rid of the air system a while ago so none of that stuff is there. I did not remove the exhaust manifold, just moved it to clean the mating surface on it and the head, put a new gasket on and reinstalled. Same for the flange connection. I guess I have to look at the o2 leads again and pull the PCM connectors again to double check.

  5. #45
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    with all that you've done at this point I'd throw in the towel and take to the dealership. (I say this grinding my teeth)

  6. #46
    Experienced Old Fart jfl330's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    with all that you've done at this point I'd throw in the towel and take to the dealership. (I say this grinding my teeth)
    I talked to the local stealership a few months ago. They said their diagnostic was $ 95 and would detail any work required to fix. So I brought it in. About an hour later, he calls me out into the garage when tech had scanner hooked up and showed the low O2 sensor readings, said I needed 4 new Delco sensors than they could go on.

    I had given them a list of what I had done prior to bringing it in and said I needed someone to think outside the box to troubleshoot this. I paid them the $95 and left. Wrote the owner of the stealership an email explaining my dissatisfaction. Told him I already knew what the sensor readings were, I wanted to know why. He offered to refund my money and look at it again for nothing. I accepted the refund, maybe I will let him look at it again.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I wished you lived here.....the dealership is gonna be expensive. There are no local speed shops with LS experience? I'm trying to think if something valvetrain related would cause this but the only things I can come up with would cause a loud tick and you'd be able to hear it. I suppose a slightly bent pushrod could cause it and still not be real noticeable noise wise?? I'm just out of ideas and guessing though really. It just needs to be put in front of someone that can diagnose it properly.

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    Powertech Performance 727-820-0802

  9. #49
    Experienced Old Fart jfl330's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I wished you lived here.....the dealership is gonna be expensive. There are no local speed shops with LS experience? I'm trying to think if something valvetrain related would cause this but the only things I can come up with would cause a loud tick and you'd be able to hear it. I suppose a slightly bent pushrod could cause it and still not be real noticeable noise wise?? I'm just out of ideas and guessing though really. It just needs to be put in front of someone that can diagnose it properly.
    I really feel that it is ignition related. Is there any way to test the spark? Perhaps if it is not sufficient, the incomplete combustion looks lean and the PCM throws more fuel at it.

    Ideas?

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    I know how to see if it's a coil, plug or wire. But not how to see if the pcm is managing correctly.

  11. #51
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    Knock sensors and the wire harness. Could these effect it?

  12. #52
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    didnt we had a tuner member from tampa area? tampatuning or something.like that? his avatar was likr a police car with flashing lights.

    I think there is two tunning shops here in orlando that work with ls engines. does.the car drive? I can check for the numbers. I would google tampatunning but I dont have any feedback on him.

  13. #53
    Member 88gtman's Avatar
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    Only way to test sparkreally is pull the plugs out one at a time and turn theotor over and look for spark.

  14. #54
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    How long did you run it after the swap? Unless you reset your trims to zero, it'll take just a bit to clear out.

  15. #55
    Experienced Old Fart jfl330's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    How long did you run it after the swap? Unless you reset your trims to zero, it'll take just a bit to clear out.
    About 80 miles back and forth to work. Soon as it went closed loop B2S1 went to 0.1V or less and stayed there.

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    Knock sensors and harness new.

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    I'm kinda forgetting what all we've talked about so far I glanced back over the first page again real quick but don't see where you talk about cold starts. How does it act on a cold start for the first few minutes until it goes to closed loop?

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    You can certainly grab a spare spark plug, pull the ignition wires one-by-one and then test spark the old fashion way by grounding the plug and cranking the engine. Just be sure to pull your fuel pump fuse so that the engine does not start. Better done in a semi-darkened garage versus daylight so you can see the spark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    I'm kinda forgetting what all we've talked about so far I glanced back over the first page again real quick but don't see where you talk about cold starts. How does it act on a cold start for the first few minutes until it goes to closed loop?
    It seems to be fine until it goes closed loop.

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    I assume you capped and sealed the secondary air tubed when you removed the system. Have you looked at your ECT, MAP, and MAF readings on the scanner once it goes into closed loop. Is the tune correct for the MAF on the car? GM used different calibrations and I found that out the hard way with a replacement MAF.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I assume you capped and sealed the secondary air tubed when you removed the system. Have you looked at your ECT, MAP, and MAF readings on the scanner once it goes into closed loop. Is the tune correct for the MAF on the car? GM used different calibrations and I found that out the hard way with a replacement MAF.
    If it were any of those things it wouldn't just be 1 bank though. Open loop idle being fine rules out a mechanical issue like spark or injectors. Also rules out the MAF since it's bank specific & runs off the MAF in open loop. Has to either be air entering the exhaust stream on that side, sensor, or electrical. He's replaced sensors so those are off the list. Down to air in the exhaust stream or electrical IMO. Maybe I'm missing something but a fine open loop & bank specific would point me at one of those 2.

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