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Need help removing the brake calipers

This is a discussion on Need help removing the brake calipers within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok, I tried to replace my front brake pads and rotors today on my 2001 Z28. I got the car ...

  1. #1
    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Need help removing the brake calipers

    Ok, I tried to replace my front brake pads and rotors today on my 2001 Z28. I got the car up and the tire off no problem. Followed the Haynes manual to open up the caliper, there is one 13m bolt/screw that holds it closed. It was a little tough to get going, but I got it off and opened up the caliper. Saw how easy it was to pull off the old brake pads and install new ones.

    Now I tried to get the caliper off so I could access the rotors (which are warped). The caliper is held on by two 18m bolt/screws on the back side of the caliper. Those fuckers will not budge. I put almost all my weight behind the the rachet (thought it was about to break) and the car rocked on the jack stand a little bit. My car alarm even went off. No progress at all.

    Is there a trick to these? They're not threaded backwards are they? I don't have any air tools or impact tools, so I'm not sure what to do next. I'm not even sure how they got so tight, there doesnt' seem to be room to get an air tool behind the caliper and into the wheel well. I don't have room to stick a bar onto the back of the rachet to increase the leverage. My buddy said try hitting the rachet with a hammer after torquing it, but that didn't work either.

    Are they supposed to be this hard to remove?

  2. #2
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    They are torqued at 74 ft. pounds and have thread locker on them.
    Yes, they are going to be tough.
    Six point socket & breaker bar with a length of pipe comes to mind.
    To gain better access you can turn the wheel.

    Good luck.

    Bob

  3. #3
    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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  4. #4
    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbob93
    They are torqued at 74 ft. pounds and have thread locker on them.
    Yes, they are going to be tough.
    Six point socket & breaker bar with a length of pipe comes to mind.
    To gain better access you can turn the wheel.

    Good luck.

    Bob
    Ya know, I never even thought of turning the damn wheel. That's a good idea, thanx. I guess this means I should use locktite when I re-install the calipers. Haynes manual doesn't mention that little factoid...

  5. #5
    Single Malt rbob93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thewilldog
    Ya know, I never even thought of turning the damn wheel. That's a good idea, thanx. I guess this means I should use locktite when I re-install the calipers. Haynes manual doesn't mention that little factoid...
    You're welcome.

    BTW, use the BLUE locktight.
    If you use the red, you will never get them off again.

    Bob

  6. #6
    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Mission successful. I brought the car over to a friends house who had a breaker-bar. He broke a 18mm socket, but we finally got them out. The car doesn't vibrate anymore when I brake. Very pleased, and now I know how to do it again in the future. No more spending hundreds at the shop. 4 pads and 2 rotors cost me about $120.
    Last edited by Thewilldog; 12-05-2005 at 08:40 AM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    Yea brake shops are such a rip off...couple hundo for new pads and maybe a few turned rotors is robbery. But it seems to work on people...so whatever

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