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Need Help with LS1

This is a discussion on Need Help with LS1 within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I would take it to a good tuner. If the car had issues before (shutting off after 2 hours driving) ...

  1. #21
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    I would take it to a good tuner. If the car had issues before (shutting off after 2 hours driving) and has worse problems now-get it looked at.

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    What are some after effects of running your fuel lean for a long time? Lets same its been running lean for about 1 1/2 years.

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    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    Detonation (sp?) comes from running lean. It can cause engine damage.
    Last edited by LETHALxLS1; 07-08-2009 at 02:23 AM.

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    Damn, well I really want to try and get my own laptop tuner. I think I will do that. Hopefully not too long from now. Don't know how much longer my car and I for that fact can take of this crap.
    I'm thinking of going with the HP Tuners programmer and scanner package. $499

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    how many miles are on the cats ?maybe they are plugged up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garygnu65 View Post
    how many miles are on the cats ?maybe they are plugged up.
    I'm not a know it all, but I dont think I have any cats. I got strait headers to muffler. Only have two O2 sensors, one in each side of the headers. Headers go strait into Y-Pipe, into mufflers.

    Any other Ideas?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SS201 View Post
    Damn, well I really want to try and get my own laptop tuner. I think I will do that. Hopefully not too long from now. Don't know how much longer my car and I for that fact can take of this crap.
    I'm thinking of going with the HP Tuners programmer and scanner package. $499
    spend the extra and get the pro. it is worth every penny

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Just try turning your idle screw to open up the TB just a 1/4 turn to start with and see if that helps

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    spend the extra and get the pro. it is worth every penny
    I will try, cash is tight right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    Just try turning your idle screw to open up the TB just a 1/4 turn to start with and see if that helps
    I'll do that, I really hope something gives soon. I've beeen messing with this forever it seems like.

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    Ok. Dr. Cash, assume you have or know someone that has the pro version. I need to know what the wideband kit does exactly. Im new to the tuner stuff. So school me if you can man.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SS201 View Post
    Ok. Dr. Cash, assume you have or know someone that has the pro version. I need to know what the wideband kit does exactly. Im new to the tuner stuff. So school me if you can man.
    It allows for more acurate tuning. Here is a copy and paste from somewhere that i cant remember.

    "To fully understand why a high performance vehicle tuner would be better off using a wide-band O2 sensor/gauge versus a narrow band setup, we must first understand what each sensor was originally developed to do.


    Narrow Band O2 Sensors began to appear on vehicles with the advent of fuel injection in the 1980’s. Their purpose was to monitor component degradation (i.e. fuel injectors, vacuum leaks) of vehicles as they accumulated miles. Their basic job was to let the computer know whether the vehicle was running at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 under idle (ideal ratio for gasoline engines), moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions, and if it wasn’t, to “trim” the injector pulse-width to either slightly lean or richen the engine. When the computer is paying attention to the input from the O2 sensor, the engine is operating in a “closed-loop” capacity. Under heavier acceleration or wide-open throttle the computer ignores the O2 sensor because it requires an air/fuel ratio other than 14.7:1, which is outside the design parameters of the sensor. This is known as “open-loop” operation. The sensor lets the computer know if the engine is running above or below 14.7:1 by sending voltage to the computer in a range between 0 and 1 volt, usually sweeping between the two extremes of this scale. Traditional narrow-band air/fuel ratio gauges are simply a voltmeter for this signal. This can be seen by the repeated sweeping back and forth of the gauge in most idle, light throttle, and cruise conditions. To summarize, a narrow band O2 sensor is only able to tell a computer (or gauge, for that matter) whether an engine is operating above or below a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.


    Wide Band O2 Sensors where developed in the early ‘90s as vehicle manufacturers began looking to obtain air/fuel ratio information under all circumstances. This ranged from WOT to varying ratios, for example running air/fuel ratios leaner than 14.7:1 under cruise conditions. Volkswagen and Honda pioneered the development of the wide-band O2 sensors to provide accurate air-fuel ratios under these varying circumstances. They did this by broadening the voltage range in which feedback from the sensor was provided and making a linear scale that provided a fixed voltage that correlated to a specific air/fuel ratio. While the narrow-band O2 is still the most common type of O2 sensor installed on most new vehicles (for cost reasons), OEMs will still use wide-bands on many forced induction applications (or, in Honda’s case, on their “lean-burn” Civics).


    High performance vehicle tuners discovered that wide-band O2 sensors are very helpful when accurate air/fuel ratio readings are required to maximize power, reliability, and mileage on modified vehicles. "




    not the best but it give you the idea. with the regular version there is a way to hook up a wide band but its not that easy. With the pro you also get a few other perks.

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    O- I can't wait to hear the outcome of this

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    Ok, I understand a little better. Now, I know I have the wideband O2 sensors on my car. Does that mean I can directly conect that to the scanner/HPT interface? Or do I need to get a wideband module or controller to connect the sensor to and then hook up that to the scanner/HPT interface?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SS201 View Post
    Ok, I understand a little better. Now, I know I have the wideband O2 sensors on my car. Does that mean I can directly conect that to the scanner/HPT interface? Or do I need to get a wideband module or controller to connect the sensor to and then hook up that to the scanner/HPT interface?
    I have just skimmd over this thread. Are you sure you have WIDEBAND O2 sensor? And not a narrow band... OEM oxygen sensor? Big diiference.

    Yes, after you buy a Wideband you can connect it directly to HPT Scanner. It works wonders.

    And do not even but HPT if your not going to buy HPT Pro.


    Just Re-read your question.... The "module" comes with the Wideband O2 sensor. Look into NGK,LC1,LM1 and a few others.


    I know Mark at www.kyspeed.com sells HPT Pro and LC1 widebands.... because I bought them of off him
    Last edited by Hi-Po; 07-09-2009 at 05:42 PM.

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    like I said, im new to this stuff. But thanks Hi-Po. Im still learning man. I dont think I can afford a seperate wideband sensor for the pro version.

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    Well I think i have pretty much narrowed my process of elimination to the fuel pump. What aftermarket fuel pump do you guys think is good. I'm not running any NO2 or nothing, just got cam, nothin else to expensive. I plan to get a set of heads and intake in the future.

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    the racetronix kit really is the way to go. easy and not to expensive, plug and play

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    Process of elimination can be an expensive and time consuming method of fixing problems. If you're going to work on these cars, and it sounds like you want to, you will need some tools. In this case, a fuel pressure gauge that you can attach to the fuel rail and measure pressure. They are inexpensive and it only takes a few minutes.

    BTW have you done an idle relearn - turn the ignition to on without starting the car, and pull the pcm ign. and pcm batt. fuses. Turn the ignition off, then put the fuses back in. This will reset the PCM. Now start the car, don't touch the gas, brake or clutch and let it warm up to operating temperature. Turn the ignition of, and wait 15 seconds. Now restart the car and see how it idles.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaddySS View Post
    Process of elimination can be an expensive and time consuming method of fixing problems. If you're going to work on these cars, and it sounds like you want to, you will need some tools. In this case, a fuel pressure gauge that you can attach to the fuel rail and measure pressure. They are inexpensive and it only takes a few minutes.

    BTW have you done an idle relearn - turn the ignition to on without starting the car, and pull the pcm ign. and pcm batt. fuses. Turn the ignition off, then put the fuses back in. This will reset the PCM. Now start the car, don't touch the gas, brake or clutch and let it warm up to operating temperature. Turn the ignition of, and wait 15 seconds. Now restart the car and see how it idles.
    Are these fuses located under the guages on driverside or at engine bay?

    You know I heard somewhere else about getting a guage to stick on my fuel rail full-time. I'll check into it.

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