Need advice / contacts

**97txaggie** · 04-13-2010, 09:27 AM

Okay - just bought a 99 Z28 that I probably got screwed on - but I won't whine too much

Fact is, I need some one in the SW Iowa area that knows what the heck they are doing. NO shade tree mechanics. The car revs fine w/ no load, but under WOT, it will spit and sputter pretty bad. Still gets up and goes, but it just isn't as responsive as it should be. I owned a 95 Z for years and w/ little or no mods, it would blow the doors off this car. Current car has long tube headers, ory-pipe, magnaflow 3" exhaust, and SLP lid. It should scoot I would think. I had the codes ran - one misfire, one fuel/air mixture, and about 20 or so O2 sensors for obvious reasons.

Soooo...where would you start? My local shadetree mechanic thinks it could be a valve spring..speed shop in KC thinks maybe a pushrod...both said could be as simple as a plug or plugwire too. I recently wet everything down to look for errant sparks, but got nothing there (not my idea, but a recommendation). Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Thanks
TxAg

**97txaggie** · 04-13-2010, 09:30 AM

Oh yeah -- it has LS6 intake too...or so I'm told - haven't found a good way to verify that w/out taking things apart though.

**Hi-Po** · 04-13-2010, 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

Okay - just bought a 99 Z28 that I probably got screwed on - but I won't whine too much

Fact is, I need some one in the SW Iowa area that knows what the heck they are doing. NO shade tree mechanics. The car revs fine w/ no load, but under WOT, it will spit and sputter pretty bad. Still gets up and goes, but it just isn't as responsive as it should be. I owned a 95 Z for years and w/ little or no mods, it would blow the doors off this car. Current car has long tube headers, ory-pipe, magnaflow 3" exhaust, and SLP lid. It should scoot I would think. I had the codes ran - one misfire, one fuel/air mixture, and about 20 or so O2 sensors for obvious reasons.

Soooo...where would you start? My local shadetree mechanic thinks it could be a valve spring..speed shop in KC thinks maybe a pushrod...both said could be as simple as a plug or plugwire too. I recently wet everything down to look for errant sparks, but got nothing there (not my idea, but a recommendation). Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Thanks
TxAg

Get the actual codes pulled, write them down and post them here.

I bolded what I*think* could be your problem. You shouldn't be getting any codes for the o2 sensors. The post cat o2's may be throwing a code, but the front should not. Find out the actual codes numbers, its very hard to help without them.

**Hi-Po** · 04-13-2010, 10:02 AM

Also, check this link out on LS6/LS1 intakes and how to tell them apart.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126647

**shady milkman** · 04-13-2010, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Get the actual codes pulled, write them down and post them here.

I bolded what I *think* could be your problem. You shouldn't be getting any codes for the o2 sensors. The post cat o2's may be throwing a code, but the front should not. Find out the actual codes numbers, its very hard to help without them.

^ what he said...i think you have a few things to take care of ..not just one problem ....with the new intake it is very possible you have a vacuum leak ..if it got got over torqued and cracked or not torqued down enough... but as hi-po said..get the codes ran and give us the numbers so we can go from there.

**97txaggie** · 04-13-2010, 10:49 AM

Will do --- I am pretty sure they cleared them, but I have new ones already, so I will get it scanned again and post as soon as I can!
TxAg

**shady milkman** · 04-13-2010, 10:58 AM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

Will do --- I am pretty sure they cleared them, but I have new ones already, so I will get it scanned again and post as soon as I can!
TxAg

if the problem exists ...the same codes will come right back

**97txaggie** · 04-13-2010, 02:12 PM

0134
0140
0155
0160
0327
0507
1133
that is what i got!

**KMdef9** · 04-13-2010, 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

0134
0140
0155
0160
0327
0507
1133
that is what i got!

Codes!

P0134 - HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0140 - HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0155 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit (bank 2, sensor 1)
P0160 - HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0327 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank1)
P0507 - Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P1133 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching Bank 1 sensor 1

**97txaggie** · 04-13-2010, 03:26 PM

ok - so what the heck should i do?? any advice appreciated. Would these things cause a bad miss under load???

**Cutlass** · 04-13-2010, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

Okay - just bought a 99 Z28 that I probably got screwed on - but I won't whine too much

Fact is, I need some one in the SW Iowa area that knows what the heck they are doing. NO shade tree mechanics. The car revs fine w/ no load, but under WOT, it will spit and sputter pretty bad. Still gets up and goes, but it just isn't as responsive as it should be. I owned a 95 Z for years and w/ little or no mods, it would blow the doors off this car. Current car has long tube headers, ory-pipe, magnaflow 3" exhaust, and SLP lid. It should scoot I would think. I had the codes ran - one misfire, one fuel/air mixture, and about 20 or so O2 sensors for obvious reasons.

Soooo...where would you start? My local shadetree mechanic thinks it could be a valve spring..speed shop in KC thinks maybe a pushrod...both said could be as simple as a plug or plugwire too. I recently wet everything down to look for errant sparks, but got nothing there (not my idea, but a recommendation). Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Thanks
TxAg

Here's somewhere to start.

When someone puts long tube headers and ORY-pipe on their car, it is suggested they have there car tuned for the modifications. During a tune, the tuner will delete the rear O2 sensor and cat converter codes and adjust the air/fuel ratio to match the engine's mods. When done properly, the car will run flawlessly with no SES lights.

Another area to address with headers and ory is the front O2 sensors. The stock ones won't reach the connectors any more. The solutions for this are
1. Install two new Corvette rear O2 sensors. The wiring on these sensors are longer and plug right into harness. (Best option)
2. O2 sensor harness extensions. Allow you to keep your stock O2 sensors (works ok sometimes but have been known to be problematic)
3. cut and splice your own wiring extensions (not at all recommended)

**97txaggie** · 04-13-2010, 08:34 PM

Thanks for the advice Cutlass -- now for an even more stupid question - how much should I expect to spend to have someone tune it? Anyone live close to Omaha or KC and could offer up a suggestion on who to use?

Thanks for all the comments.
TxAg

**KMdef9** · 04-14-2010, 03:18 AM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

Thanks for the advice Cutlass -- now for an even more stupid question - how much should I expect to spend to have someone tune it? Anyone live close to Omaha or KC and could offer up a suggestion on who to use?

Thanks for all the comments.
TxAg

For tuning, contact our fellow member/sponsor Frost.

**Cutlass** · 04-14-2010, 06:07 AM

yep you can mail your PCM to Frost and he can tune it and send it back to you for about $125 plus shipping, I think

**shady milkman** · 04-14-2010, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

Thanks for the advice Cutlass -- now for an even more stupid question - how much should I expect to spend to have someone tune it? Anyone live close to Omaha or KC and could offer up a suggestion on who to use?

Thanks for all the comments.
TxAg

Originally Posted by KMdef9

For tuning, contact our fellow member/sponsor Frost.

Originally Posted by Cutlass

yep you can mail your PCM to Frost and he can tune it and send it back to you for about $125 plus shipping, I think

^ with them..however look for a local tuner ..the price will be about the same.

**97txaggie** · 04-14-2010, 12:11 PM

I just checked w/ MC Racing in KC and they want $400 -- seems a little steep compared to the $125, but I would rather have the actual car tested rather than just a bench test.

**KMdef9** · 04-14-2010, 01:01 PM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

I just checked w/ MC Racing in KC and they want $400 -- seems a little steep compared to the $125, but I would rather have the actual car tested rather than just a bench test.

I could be wrong with this, but given you have a small number of mods, a bench tune will benfit you just as much as road tuning. Frost can answer that question better than I can, can't hurt to ask him. Plus, I'm sure he's tuned more F-body's than most local shops have.

**97txaggie** · 04-14-2010, 01:27 PM

Very good point - I will shoot him a message on here!

I do have another question for you experts too - if there were issues w/ the transmission, do they have scans for that, or would it show codes through the OBD2 connection as well? Just curious - I think things are fine, but it is honestly hard to tell as bad as the thing runs now

Thanks again for all the help!
Jay

**KMdef9** · 04-14-2010, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by 97txaggie

Very good point - I will shoot him a message on here!

I do have another question for you experts too - if there were issues w/ the transmission, do they have scans for that, or would it show codes through the OBD2 connection as well? Just curious - I think things are fine, but it is honestly hard to tell as bad as the thing runs now

Thanks again for all the help!
Jay

A4?

If it isn't throwing a code, I don't think so. Check the fluid color, that's usually a good start. Does it feel like it's slipping? Shifting hard when driving easy?

**97txaggie** · 04-14-2010, 05:32 PM

Yep - auto. It does kinda feel like it is slipping to me, but it could be just the fact that it doesn't rev smoothly. I'll get it tuned here shortly - I think I have a lead and I have an email off to Frost already as well. I'll post more details about the tranny in the next week or two hopefully!
J