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  1. #1
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    mystery oil leak

    i have been tracking an oil leak for months. replaced top end components, oil sender, cam position, intake seals. oil is all over filter and bottom of car to the rear end. clutch looks dry, same with pilot bearing/plug. if the rear main seal is leaking i dont see how it gets high up on the filter and starter.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Could be from the oil pan and or the bracket that the oil filter mounts too. It is a separate piece that bolts to the block and has a gasket.

    On the passenger side check the oil dipstick o ring.

  3. #3
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    how hard to change oil pan gasket with tranny out?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    That's not the real PITA you gotta worry about.

    The real issue is the K member clearance if you are still using the OEM k Member. You will need to raise the motor up about 2" min in order to drop the pan enough to get the old gasket out and the new one in.

    As long as you don't remove the rear and front cover you should not need to worry about oil pan alignment.


    In other words make sure it's leaking from the pan gasket, otherwise you're in for a fun few hours.

  5. #5
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    I dont see how it could be leaking from the pan since the oil filter is soaked, ie its higher. I need to look behind the clutch.

  6. #6
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    I will second Scott's motion on the oil pan gasket. Our car was leaking oil and I was convinced it was the rear main. Swapping the seal isn't awful, but you do have to drill out two (2) rivets that retain the stock gasket to the pan. Let me see if I can find the thread with pics of where I changed mine out. Also, remember that the air moving under the car is blowing the oil all over the place, so do not get too hung up on where you are actually seeing it.

  7. #7
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Start at Post #59 in this thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f66/k-memb...grades-163761/

    I dropped my K-member to swap in a tubular UMI piece so I had lots of room to work. Not sure of the clearances with the K-member in place.

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    mystery oil leak

    I forgotten about those rivets.
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  9. #9
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    There is a bunch of oil of the starter bolt close to the block. Also on the oil bypass. Rear cover and seal look dry. So maybe the cover is leaking and ending up on the starter bolt. Thats there it would go. Take a look at the clutch parts. about 10K miles on them. So now that its all apart, should I replace the rear main seal, cover seal and pilot bearing?

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    mystery oil leak

    Do you still have the OEM PCV?

  11. #11
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Rear main and cover seal appear to be fine. No need to mess with those imo.

  12. #12
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    yes original style pcv. new. how is that a problem

  13. #13
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Reach back and feel is it's leaking at the y joint that is behind the intake. They tend to split with age and if the hose cracks off the back of the valve cover it can let oil leak out and it will drop all down the sides and bell housing.

  14. #14
    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    Pewter
    2002 Trans Am WS6 M6

    The PVC system I'm betting is the culprit too. I still had some of mine in and when installing my new catch can I took out all the old. Found my mystery leak when I did that. It had popped out just enough to leak but not throw a code and was leaking oil all down the back of the engine onto the trans in a similar way your describing.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

  15. #15
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    if you look at the pic, its dry up there. stuck my hand up there.
    20180619_190044-min_zps0y8kuvyf.jpg Photo by johnfin1 | Photobucket

  16. #16
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    always dirty
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    Did you make sure that an old gasket wasn't stuck after your last oil filter change?

  17. #17
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Quote Originally Posted by johnfin View Post
    if you look at the pic, its dry up there. stuck my hand up there.
    20180619_190044-min_zps0y8kuvyf.jpg Photo by johnfin1 | Photobucket


    Check the Bell Housing. If it's wet or shows oil residue it's still a possibility.

  18. #18
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    So I put everything back together, Filled up the oil, and it leaks without the car running. Out the back near the oil filter. Has to be the pan gasket. I have heard some people jacking up the engine, putting 2x4's under the mounts and fishing the gasket around the crank. Any of you done this? I would think I need to be able to see the back of the block/pan/gasket to insure a decent seal. Really do not want to drop the cradle. The car is up on ramps now, exhaust dropped.

  19. #19
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    You still need to be able to drill out the rivets, so the pan has to come completely out. Dropping the cradle is not all that difficult. Not sure how much the engine can be raised...

  20. #20
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    have you done that job? there was a guy who said he just lowered the pan and fished the gasket around. i think thats bs based on the rivits. so to drop the cradle, the car has to be on jack stands, right?

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