My T/A wont start, security issue!

[sdoyleT/A]

I have a 2000 Trans Am 6spd. About a month ago after work it wouldnt start. I tried to jump it with no luck, the security light was on. After this i tried to push start it, again no luck. I towed it home and it sat for three weeks. I know its not the VATS, as i have bypassed them and it didnt help. I also tested the two white wires with key in ignition and it read the same as the key, so i know there are no broken wires on the tumbler. After this i replaced the clutch lock switch with no success and security light is still on. I decided to change the starter relay and still nothing. Could it be starter? I can test at the starter while cranking, just one thing i havnt tried yet. Any other ideas?

Thanks!

[JayTA98]

you may have an open wire from the 2 white wires plug to the VATS box and/or the VATS itself could be bad. If the security light is on the VATS is active. I haven't had this issue but I'm sure someone will chime and will tell you were to check to see if the wires are intact to the VATS.

[Cutlass]

did you bypass it correctly?
Also to test the factory VATS setup, you need to test at the white wires and cycle the key from off to start. If the reading changes or go open while cycling, then the wire is partially/intermittently broken.

[sdoyleT/A]

Yes i did bypass correctly, or at least i felt i did. i took a thread from here and took my laptop out with me. i will test the VATS as you suggested. is this the only way to test the VATS system? if the wires are good after i test them this way what then? thanks for the help!

[Cutlass]

Well if it bypassed correctly then I guess it won't really matter what the key cylinder readings are since that side of the circuit should be cut out of the system now. Just wanted to mention how to completely check the VATs key cylinder.

[Cutlass]

If the correct resistor is now spliced in the VATs circuit correctly and you still have a security system problem then its most like a bad BCM.

[JayTA98]

If the correct resistor is now spliced in the VATs circuit correctly and you still have a security system problem then its most like a bad BCM.

Is that were the VATS stuff at? inside the BCM?

[Cutlass]

yes, the BCM reads the key resistance and then enables the starter and sends a signal to the PCM. Once the PCM gets the signal it enables the fuel injectors.

[JayTA98]

yes, the BCM reads the key resistance and then enables the starter and sends a signal to the PCM. Once the PCM gets the signal it enables the fuel injectors.

Nice info. Thanks Cutlass.

[sdoyleT/A]

So i took the BCM out and everything looks good. I went ahead and hit the two tabs with the solder gun anyway. Put it back in the car and still no luck. When i try to start it i can hear the relays click but the security light is still on with no crank. So whats next? If the starter goes bad will that trip the security system? Not sure what direction to go next. If i plug in my snap on scanner will that tell me anything?
thanks!

[Cutlass]

A bad starter won't trip the security light. You could check you starter out since you're hearing clicking noises. If there's no power to the solenoid wiring when you turn the key to 'crank' then the starter isn't getting power from the starter relay or the BCM isn't commanding the starter relay(aka VATs issue)

[sdoyleT/A]

Ok ill test the starter this weekend. Assuming its a VAT's issue, and i have attempted the bypass, which failed, what then? Kind of odd that i went to lunch and it ran fine that day parked it and came out to go home and security is tripped? Oh well, not like you can drive it in Nebraska in the winter anyway.

[ssxcytmnt]

I had the same problem with my car, it wouldnt start and the security light was on, I checked the started and battery and even pushed it to start it. (its a manual) After a few hours i read the manual and found out that the chip in my key had fallen out and with out that chip, my car wouldnt start. I went home to get my second set of keys and it started right up and the security light went out. Hope you have the same problem its an easy fix if it is.

[MrMasterCraft]

You bypassed your VATS? Well, I had the same issue as you years ago. This is what I did (but my VATS was NOT bypassed).

Turn the key to the run position, do not start. Let it sit for 20 minutes. Turn the key back to the off position.

Turn the key to the run position for the second time now, do not start. Let it sit for 20 more minutes. Turn the key back to the off position.

For the third and final time, turn the key to the run position, do not start. Let it sit for 20 minutes. Turn the key back to the off position. After waiting 3-5 seconds, proceed to start the vehicle.

Within all these attempts, your security light is BOUND to go off. The dealer will tell you, even though the Security light is no longer illuminated in your gauge cluster, this DOES NOT mean you should start it. Go through the process, full and completely, and it WILL start!

Make sure you've got a good battery and that your Ebrake is up (so your lights are not running) and your radio is off (push in on the button if need be). I had to do this twice in a matter of 4 years, worked both times.

[sdoyleT/A]

Is it ok to do this with a battery charger on the car?

[MrMasterCraft]

Is it ok to do this with a battery charger on the car?

Of course

I know the second time I had a problem with this, I was actually stranded (at a gas station after some local street racing). So after the second cycle was over, and I was supposed to begin my 3rd, I took a chance and tried to start it. Luckily, it fired right up. However, if you try to "cheat the cycle", and it doesn't do a damn thing, you MUST repeat the cycle in its entirety, starting from the very beginning.

It is nothing but a time consuming task, but it was my last resort when I had the initial problem, before I swallowed it and was going to have to coin up for a dealer fix. Just make sure you don't try to cheat it, you may get lucky, then again, you may not

[MrMasterCraft]

Solve your issue?

[MrMasterCraft]

???

[sdoyleT/A]

Its been so stinking cold here even with my heater on in the garage i havnt been out to touch the car. So when it warms up ill go out and give your suggestions a try. I need to get it going though cause i think we will have a early spring. Ill give an update when i try your key on-off fix.
thanks for the suggestions!

[barnac0]

How old is the key that you are using. It may be worn out and not making good contact anymore. I just went throught this with my car. It turned out that it was a bad bcm.