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My fuel pumps are wired piggyback, is this acceptable?

This is a discussion on My fuel pumps are wired piggyback, is this acceptable? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I just bought this 99 ws6 and its been stalling randomly. The car has been built and has a high ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    My fuel pumps are wired piggyback, is this acceptable?

    I just bought this 99 ws6 and its been stalling randomly. The car has been built and has a high pressure fuel pump added to the original in-tank setup. Now I have no fuel pressure and none of the pumps cycle when the key is turned to run. The oe relay is working and the aftermarket relay at the aux pump is working. I found that I have a custom wiring job at the rear aux pump and some of the original wiring is cracked and one wire broken. Now my question is Do I repair this setup or do I buy a kit online? What are your thoughts?

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I would seriously get a Racetronix Fuel pump and their wire harness. With something as critical as a fuel pump and with possible explosive mistakes messing with a hack wire job is not the smartest or best solution.

    It's not to expensive IIRC both cost me $198 shipped.

  3. #3
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I would seriously get a Racetronix Fuel pump and their wire harness. With something as critical as a fuel pump and with possible explosive mistakes messing with a hack wire job is not the smartest or best solution.

    It's not to expensive IIRC both cost me $198 shipped.
    X2!

    Everything about that setup needs to be changed, IMO.

    1. Two pumps is unnecessary. Sounds like the previous owner was lazy, besides, if you have two pumps, you'll be limited by the weakest link.

    2. Shotty wiring is always a problem. It can simply kill the pump or get someone seriously injured. Piggybacking is OK if your tapping into a lighting circuit to add a couple of LED accent lights. But your fuel delivery system should have a dedicated circuit with the proper guage wires, using weather proof connections. Did they just tap the existing lines for firing the relay? Used those wires to run the "performance" pump? Either way, that circuit was designed by GM engineers for 1 purpose, not 2.

    I would assume the worse with this and swap out all the old wiring and pumps for the Racetronix setup.

  4. #4
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    I agree with the above suggestions. I think the last time I saw a dual pump setup was at the dragstrip I went to a few years ago.

  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    usually dual pumps are for motors that have FI or even some serious nitrous added on. It sounds like thy pumps were daisy chained for what reason

  6. #6
    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    I will be ordering the Racetronics kit because it looks like the only solution, plus the 2nd pump whined something fierce. But my next question would be what needs to happen to my brand new in tank pump? Does it need to be altered? I just don't know the ropes to these cars yet. The in tank pump failed and our dealership traded it in that way. My tech replaced it and it ran great afterwards - except for the random stalling.

  7. #7
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    The racetronix pump will replace the one in your tank. It will be the only one you need. Also make sure you order the correct pump.

    There is one for the 98's and one for the 99< yrs.

    Read the instructions before you start doing the install. They are pretty thorough. A couple of steps I had to reread. I also suggest you empty the tank as best as you can before dropping it. Every gallon of gas equals about 6.6 lbs of dead weight.

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    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    Thank you! What I read on the Racetronix website didn't really clarify that. BUT does the wire harness plug right into the 3 floor pan mounted connectors and eliminate the oe wiring? All my wiring has been tapped, soldered into and shrink wrapped. I'd like to start fresh and from what I found out today a fresh sender harness is not available. I have access to new terminals but its never the same after terminal repairs. I'm a perfectionist. Do not do hack-jobs.

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    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    I spoke too soon. The wiring kit clearly is a jumper harness that plugs into my damaged wiring harness. Maybe it's boneyard time. I wish I could get a new harness.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    pics would help in determining what may need to be done.

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    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    I'll snap some tomorrow. Chopped fuel lines, a mystery brand pump then filter attached with zip ties and a rats nest of wires. Whoever did the wiring was ok, but the oe harness is where the issue started. Wires rot easy here due to 100 degree summer days to -30 degree winters. Plus mice and squirrels love fuel and data wiring.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    you are going to need to use a web program like photobucket in order to post here.


    Here is a thread that explains it.

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f98/how-po...bucket-138199/

  13. #13
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Wiring messes can be challenging, but nothing is impossible if you take your time and be careful. This isn't something you should only plan on taking a few hours.

    Basically, I'd to get your car back to stock before we even play with the racetronix stuff. Unless you see a step where adding the racetronix's in would save a step, but I'm not sure about that, Scott would have more input. But here's overall what I would do.
    1. Identify and isolate each circuit
    2. Remove uneeded/wanted wires
    3. Repair stock wiring (that should be all that's left before the racetronix)
    4. Follow the racetronix's instructions

    If you start to dive into it, I would tear back as much looming/tape that you can to expose the color of all the wires and where they're soldered. TAKE PICTURES! Or label each wire with masking tape before you cut anything. Next I would identify what each wire is, meaning where it comes from and where it goes to. Then start to isolate each set wires, ie your aftermarket pump. So if the pump has, for example, red/green/black and white, (if they aren't wrapped together already) I would zip tie them together. The OEM stuff should be easier to identify, the wiring/looming will be different from the aftermarket pump's. While your removing looming I'd also take this time to identify cracked wires and mark them too so they don't get over looked later. Heat-shrink can be cut, but if they used the correct stuff, it will have some glue inside of it, making it alittle more challenging. I'd use a fresh razor blade to score it down the length of it, then use needle nose pliers or tweezers to pull it off.

    If end up needing to cut wires, and reattach them, the ONLY way I will recommend doing this is buy soldering and heat-shrinking. That's the only way to keep the weather from corroding your wiring. Solder and soldering guns are cheap at radio-shack, portable guns are easier to use, IMO. Those can be found a sears as well. If you've never soldered before, it's not extremely difficult, and if you give this video a watch, it's more than enough to help you through it:
    The only thing I'd add to his video, you'll see the solder be "sucked" into the wire, just make sure the whole connection looks covered, and don't apply 2ft of solder, it will be "sucked" down the length of the wires your soldering and make them stiff, which makes them harder to work with. Use the appropriate thickness of solder, it will make the job easier, especially if it has a rosin core. And make sure your gun isn't super hot, it will melt the insulation and cause it to crack (that could be what happened to your car), you shouldn't have to hold the gun on for too long to solder it, and make sure your heatshrink is on before you solder! lol, been there before...


    Where the wires that have they're insulation cracked, and bare wire is exposed, I'd check for corrosion. If you don't get rid of all the corroded wire, it could lead to problem down the road. I would cut the wire at the visibly corroded area, and snip little 1/2" pieces off, working my way away from the corrosion (in such a direction that I'll be able to remove the corroded/cracked piece of wire) until you get some nice clean copper. You might have to add wire, of at least the same gauge size to make up for the removed length of wire. You could try to junk yard a length of wire with the fuel pump harness connection and solder a whole new piece in there. That would be pretty easy and much faster than tackling each wire individually, as long as all the corrosion has been removed.

    After the wires are repaired, if you have a multimeter, I would check that you have power/ground to each of the terminals at the stock fuel pump connection. If your all good, continue with the racetronix install. If not, let us know, that should be working before bothering with the racetronix.



    I think that's enough for now, lol.

  14. #14
    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    So I ordered the Racetronix kit with wiring and pump and both options (RX-F99-FPKG-2) and it came with no instructions as expected. I have repaired all damaged wiring/replaced terminals. Now my dilemma is the kit comes with the origninal square 4-way connector for the fuel pump module, but I have a brand new ac delco module with the 4-way flat connector. Did I order the wrong kit? It won't plug and play like I want it to. If I cut and splice wires/connectors it will not only void the warranty, but wont be a clean job. Racetronix help forum isn't working for me(says content is blocked by administrator) and I need to know what to do. I see they sell replacement bulkhead connectors for the 4-way on the fuel pump. It also appears they sell a generic kit that has the 4-way flat connector. HMMMMM!?!? #FRUSTRATED

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Where did you get the new module from? Could be incorrect or the Racetronix kit is incorrect. Never read an incorrect Racetronix kit on here before.

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    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
    1999 Formula WS6

    The in tank fuel pump was a gm unit, delco # MU1730. I guess when I read the product description before ordering there was no mention of fuel module type being an issue. YesterdY I was easily able to change the wire connector back to original and swap out the bulkhead connector on the module. The Racetronix pump didn't fit inside my module however I removed the red aluminum case and then it fit and was secured with a special bracket I made. I'm going to finish the job now. We will see if it works. I'm confident.

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    Junior Member tekkauto's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal
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    P.S. I took lots of photos of the process to help the ls1 community if I ever figure out how to upload using Photobucket.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Ok.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I'm looking for my directions....will post or email them to you if I can find them.

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