Motor Mount Install?
This is a discussion on Motor Mount Install? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I just recieved the Poly Motor mounts that I ordered from the WS6 Store. I think the stock rubber ones ...
05-24-2007, 03:11 PM #1
Motor Mount Install?
I just recieved the Poly Motor mounts that I ordered from the WS6 Store.
I think the stock rubber ones are pretty bad, the car is a '98 with 87K on it, and the exhaust hits the floor bad when the motor torques over.
Just looking for some advice from those who have changed them, because I've heard that they are tough to do. Whats the best way to get the old ones out and the new ones in?? I'm assuming I should jack the motor up to get the weigh off the mounts first. I have LT headers installed as well, will it be necessary to remove them??
05-24-2007, 05:29 PM #2
they will be easier to get to with the headers out of the way. then, you'll have to lift the motor up to get the mounts off the motor.
05-24-2007, 06:14 PM #3
05-24-2007, 06:16 PM #4
no. you unbolt them from the motor. to get the rubber out of the clamshell, you have to drill out the rivets that hold the shell together. then install the poly and get small bolts to get the clamshell back together.
05-24-2007, 06:53 PM #5
05-25-2007, 03:53 AM #6
sounds like a pita. good luck
05-25-2007, 06:41 AM #7
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Anderson, IN
- 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
I just got done doing mine. Looking at the flat part of my old rubber mount it was colapsed at 46,000 miles. I did not remove my headers as they were not really in the way. I think the size was 13mm but it was a life saver having a 13mm gear wrench to remove the mount from the block. I pulled the alternator completey off to get more room on the drivers side. On the passenger side I unbolted the compressor and layed it on the sway bar. Completely removed the compressor mounting bracket. Getting the new mounts lined up, A large prybar and a buddy was a must on my car. Stuck it in from the top between the clam and the mount on the k-member. Used the jack to give me the right height and pryed the enginer over to the side.
My passenger side was off half a hole trying to line it back up again. There was nothing I could do to line it up with the tools I had. I ended up grinding a point on the through bolt. I had a die and cleaned the threads back up again. Then there was not enough room to get a good swing on it with a hammer so I used a 9 inch 1/2 extension against it with my air hammer on the other side. Went right in after that. After that I was worried something was really going to be off alignment and I would have crazy vibration. Honestly though going down the road now the car is the smoothest it has ever been. The more they break the better it feels at idle too. Of coarse I have a magic stick so my idle is always going to be a little shacky.
Good luck and give yourself plenty of time incase things don't go right. I had mine on jackstands for 2 weeks but its not my daily either so I wasn't stressing it. I spent 3 days trying to get the drivers side in by myself... 10 minutes when my buddy showed up to work the prybar. Took me 4 hours to complete the passenger side with all the trouble I had lining it back up. I started on the drivers side first because I've always read if you replace one thats the one to do.http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/2390/4470/65561.jpg
2002 Trans AM WS6
Jet Hot Long Tubes and Y-pipe, Hooker Catback, SLP Lid, Kenny Brown Double Diamond Subs, TSP Magic Stick, Yank SS3400
403 Horse, 357 Ft/lbs.
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