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More problems with a 99 T/A

This is a discussion on More problems with a 99 T/A within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have to start a new thread on this one. Buddies 99 T/A maybe has a new issue. He can ...

  1. #1
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    More problems with a 99 T/A

    I have to start a new thread on this one. Buddies 99 T/A maybe has a new issue.

    He can not get it started, its making a weird tapping sound from the passenger side, even when key is not in the ignition. He was out when it first happen, and after 30 mins got it started but all of cluster was not working right, then it would come on for a bit, then go out. AAA told him his battery was down but not dead. His volt meter was reading 13-14 volts. I told him it should be reading 14-15 volts but then again with the cluster not working right he may not be getting an accurate reading. All of this including the other problem he has been having with no windows or locks working makes me think he has a serious electrical problem.


    Any suggestions?

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Possible faulty BCM. Do the lights, and radio work? Could be a bad ground too. Check the easy stuff first.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    He said the radio was working, head lights not sure, I have to wait till I get home to see for myself. He is going to wait till I do.

    Also I checked the BCM and saw no cracks in the solder.

    Another question I had asked him if the Security Light came on, and he said no, so I don't think its a VATs issue.



    Does the BCM effect all of this stuff? I though it only controlled the windows, locks and such. I didn't think it effect the running of the car.


    I'm thinking a bad ground but I don't know where all the grounding points are.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    From my understanding, a BCM can have that effect. With the tapping noise without the key in the ignition, that has me thinking electrical control. I could be wrong though.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    2B Honest I know very little about the electrical stuff in cars.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    With the radio working, I wouldn't suspect a main ground. I would check to be sure though. A bad ground won't normally cause a noise though.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Where would the main ground be?

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Right off the negative battery cable. It should have a lead going right to the body/fender. Sometimes they get corroded and don't make a good connection.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Any suggestions?
    Replace the battery. Stop over-analyzing things.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Replace the battery. Stop over-analyzing things.
    This will not keep the windows or door locks from operating. Or start the car after 30 minutes. Not over analyzing, just reading the facts.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Check the ground on the back of the driver's side cylinder head. Its the ground for the IP cluster, fuel pump relay, PCM, MAF sensor, and the Park/Neutral (or Clutch) switch.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Check the ground on the back of the driver's side cylinder head. Its the ground for the IP cluster, fuel pump relay, PCM, MAF sensor, and the Park/Neutral (or Clutch) switch.
    Ok, I'll have to look at in the day time.

    Update:

    I disconnected and check both terminals and then reconnected his battery. The ground that Knight suggested was cleaned and had no corrosion on it.

    Car turned over and gauge cluster reads normal.

    Driver's window now works but the passenger and locks still not working.

    back to square one

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    This will not keep the windows or door locks from operating. Or start the car after 30 minutes. Not over analyzing, just reading the facts.
    Locks and windows were an old problem. The no start condition is a new problem. The battery has ALREADY been diagnosed as being weak. All his symptoms are indicative of a battery issue.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28 View Post
    Locks and windows were an old problem. The no start condition is a new problem. The battery has ALREADY been diagnosed as being weak. All his symptoms are indicative of a battery issue.
    Read the post above you. Not saying the battery doesn't need replaced. But if he is able to start the car, the locks and windows would also work if the problem was simply the battery.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    SMWS6TA do you have another car that you can swap batteries? Just to test it out. I will hate for you to go get a new battery and you don't need it. If it works good after you swap the battery then you need a new one.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    Read the post above you. Not saying the battery doesn't need replaced. But if he is able to start the car, the locks and windows would also work if the problem was simply the battery.
    agreed

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Jay, car is not mine, but we thought about swapping the battery from my T/A to test it but his car started on its own last night.

    He hasn't called me yet to let me know if it has died again. I told him to have it checked out today.

    The no locks and pass window is still on going.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Jay, car is not mine, but we thought about swapping the battery from my T/A to test it but his car started on its own last night.

    He hasn't called me yet to let me know if it has died again. I told him to have it checked out today.

    The no locks and pass window is still on going.
    ok keep us posted. remember to check the grounds with the voltmeter and ohmmeter if you haven't.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    will do on Sat. I believe I'm going to be chasing grounds all day.

    Besides the one that Cutlass told me about on the drivers side behind the cylinder head, the one by the battery post, and the one n the inside drivers area that is below the fuse box where else are there grounds?

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    will do on Sat. I believe I'm going to be chasing grounds all day.

    Besides the one that Cutlass told me about on the drivers side behind the cylinder head, the one by the battery post, and the one n the inside drivers area that is below the fuse box where else are there grounds?
    I'm not sure if there is any more. but check them at the plugs 1st to see if you do have a ground issue. No point on chassing them if they are working. You need to check for 12v at the plugs, and ground at the plugs. That will tell you if you have an issue right away. The other problem could be a bad BCM like it has been mention before.

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